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Old 10-09-2011, 04:20 PM   #76
MICRider   MICRider is offline
 
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Is this one something similar to the ones you guys got?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

1/4 inch inside diameter... Sounds about right but I would have to measure. At $12 a pop though I think I would only go for 1 [/url]


 
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:57 PM   #77
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It's similar, except the ones we got were metal.

It has a plastic face with the label, but the body of it is metal.

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Old 10-14-2011, 07:03 PM   #78
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A riveting question!

I scooped a chain breaker at the Fort Saskatchewan Kawi dealership (Motion Pro, very pricey when bought at dealer!). I'm going to use it to cut the chain to the right length for my 70. I know the 70 uses a simple clip type replacement masterlink for the chain. I'm wondering though, when I have to replace the chain on my KLR (maybe next summer) will a clip type masterlink suffice? It currently has a riveted masterlink. I can use the breaker to break the chain but if I have to rivet it I will need another tool. Lol, guess I should have done my homework and ordered a combo breaker/riveter... My bad. Do you think a clip masterlink would be a good idea on the KLR or no?


 
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Old 10-14-2011, 07:35 PM   #79
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Re: A riveting question!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MICRider
I scooped a chain breaker at the Fort Saskatchewan Kawi dealership (Motion Pro, very pricey when bought at dealer!). I'm going to use it to cut the chain to the right length for my 70. I know the 70 uses a simple clip type replacement masterlink for the chain. I'm wondering though, when I have to replace the chain on my KLR (maybe next summer) will a clip type masterlink suffice? It currently has a riveted masterlink. I can use the breaker to break the chain but if I have to rivet it I will need another tool. Lol, guess I should have done my homework and ordered a combo breaker/riveter... My bad. Do you think a clip masterlink would be a good idea on the KLR or no?
Lol, answering my own question. After searching a bunch on the KLR forums it seems that the clip style masterlink is the choice of the masses.


 
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:15 AM   #80
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I've never used any other than the clip type.
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Old 10-15-2011, 07:30 PM   #81
MICRider   MICRider is offline
 
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Lol, I'm an idiot... I cut the chain to what I thought was the proper size, it seemed too long so I took one more link out not realizing that I had cut an inside link on one side and an outside link on the other. So, needless to say the master link wont go through the outside link... Doh! So, I guess I'll have to pick up another 420 master and splice the chain together. I felt so stupid after I realized what I had done I almost brained myself with a ratchet!

Moral of the story. I should pay more attention to what I'm doing when cutting chains. I had it right the first time :(


 
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:20 AM   #82
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I'm sorry to hear of your chain mishap. However, don't feel bad; it is an easy mistake to make, Stew. As usual, I agree with Weld; I much prefer a clip on the chain master link, as opposed to riveting the master link.

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Old 10-16-2011, 01:53 AM   #83
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All is not lost, Stew. You can use a special master link that mates dissimilar links. Check at your local bike shop.
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Old 10-16-2011, 02:24 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldangrind
All is not lost, Stew. You can use a special master link that mates dissimilar links. Check at your local bike shop.
Yes, I believe the special link is called a "half link."

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/601-...1&zmap=601-145

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2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200)
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1998 Kawasaki KDX220

Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894


 
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:55 AM   #85
MICRider   MICRider is offline
 
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Ahh! Good to know, thanks guys! I had never heard of a half link before. I'll have to check the Fort's local Kawi shop for one of those. Failing that I guess I'll just have to go for a regular link and splice a chunk of the new chain in. My first "Doh!" moment on the little 70


 
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Old 10-16-2011, 02:27 PM   #86
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Personally, I wouldn't use a chain half link on my XR650L, or your KLR650, but you should be fine using the half link on your CT70, Stew.

Spud
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:08 PM   #87
MICRider   MICRider is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpudRider
Personally, I wouldn't use a chain half link on my XR650L, or your KLR650, but you should be fine using the half link on your CT70, Stew.

Spud
That's what I was thinking as well, the 70 wont be putting out near the power of the bigger bikes. Might be just as easy to get a regular 420 link and splice in another chunk of the new chain as it might be too short even with the half link . It's funny too, I've cut chains in the past (by grinding the heads off the pins and prying off the plates) but I've never run into cutting the wrong link before... Just lucky I guess. Oh well, I can chalk it up to experience anyway . I'll have to replace the chain on my KLR next summer and you can be rest assured I wont make this mistake again! lol!


 
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:42 PM   #88
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Wow! I can't believe I haven't really done much to the little 70 all winter... Lol, it was supposed to be my winter sanity project!

Anyway, sorted the silly chain mistake out. I did end up just purchasing another master link and splicing in another chunk of the new chain. Should be safe with that, all brand new chain anyway, it just has two masters instead of one now .

I finally got the footpegs mounted up but still have to cut the stand down. Way way down, I think it's about twice as long as it needs to be. I'll cut about a third off and then check to get a more accurate measurement. I'll use the pennies in the spring trick if I have to remove the spring and take the leg off. I think I can do it with it on the bike though, there's quite a bit of room.

I also put the gearshift and kickstart levers on. Boy, Weld wasn't kidding when he said they had major compression! Heck, I don't remember my CB450 being that hard to kick! I can also see how it would be very easy to break the kickstarter if you jumped on it at the wrong time. Seems to work best if you gently push it till it's past compression, then release the lever to let it return to the top and give it a healthy kick.

Mocked up the wiring to see if it would give me some spark as well. Pretty easy to wire them when your not doing lights and a battery. Not sure if I will go for lights at this point. Might just use it as a trail riding machine and not bother... Unless it runs and rides really nice, then I would have the itch to make it street legal again! She has spark, so no problem there. I'm going to redo a couple of the bullet connectors though, I think one cracked just plugging them together! Highest quality... Not! Very happy to see spark though, I'm pretty sure that's all that was wrong with it 35 years ago when I destroyed, er I mean dismantled it to fix it.... Lol!

So, still on the to do list:

Try to save the throttle assembly. Might have to replace cable and grip though.

Tidy up the wiring and connect the kill wires to the ignition switch.

Make brackets and mount the exhaust.

Cut the kickstand down.

Put the fuel tank and seat on... Should be a runner after that!

I can see another order to DrAtv though... Maybe the throttle stuff and some tires and brake shoes. Didn't realize how dodgy this stuff was until I started mucking around with it. That can all wait till I get it running though if I can get the sticky throttle to work better. Looking forward to getting the old girl running again. It's been a long time. 8)


 
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:02 AM   #89
SpudRider   SpudRider is offline
 
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Thanks for the update, Stew! I'm happy to hear you have spark.

Spud
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2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3)
2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200)
2005 Honda XR650L
2004 Honda CRF250X
1998 Kawasaki KDX220

Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894


 
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:10 AM   #90
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Glad to hear that you're making progress. Have you considered the China version as a parts source? Perhaps Visionary can hook you up.

Do you know a weldor? If not, you could chop it and mail it to me; I'll be happy to weld it and mail it back.
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