bigdano711's 2023 Hawk 250

[bigdano711]

Thanks, Bill. I put that 44t in my shopping cart. I think I'll run 17/44 like Zapkin.


Zapkin, do you happen to know the RPM's at that speed? I also have the upgraded speedo in my shopping cart so I can see RPM's. Wish they sold the bike with this better speedo...

[Bill Hilly]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

Thanks, Bill. I put that 44t in my shopping cart. I think I'll run 17/44 like Zapkin.


Zapkin, do you happen to know the RPM's at that speed? I also have the upgraded speedo in my shopping cart so I can see RPM's. Wish they sold the bike with this better speedo...

With that 44/17 setup, you won't be stressing the motor at all at speeds around 55-60. You can get them cheap inductive small engine tachometers for about $10.00 on Amazon. I never changed clusters on my TBR7 , because my speedometer is accurate, so I installed one of them small engine tachs in it, it works well.

[Zapkin]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

Thanks, Bill. I put that 44t in my shopping cart. I think I'll run 17/44 like Zapkin.


Zapkin, do you happen to know the RPM's at that speed? I also have the upgraded speedo in my shopping cart so I can see RPM's. Wish they sold the bike with this better speedo...

I have a cheapo tach installed but I think around 7500. I dont think my bike has the gas to get much higher rpm.

[bigdano711]

I think I will do the cheap tach thing just to save some $. Thanks for the great info! I really want to make sure my idle is right because I just tuned it by ear and my ear don't know nothin'!

[Megadan]

Just my 2 cents. On a mostly stock bike just a 17 tooth front might be all you need (or just a 45 rear) if all you plan on ever maxing out at is 55 to 60. That will give better 5th gear cruising rpm without hitting 60 at 8500rpm but won't sacrifice too much of the torque going to the rear wheel.

I would say, do the rear first, see if you like it. If you feel you need more gear the front sprocket is super easy to swap out. Some of us will even change front spockets based on what we plan on using the bike for, running a 17 front when using it for road duty and then swapping in a 15 or even 14 front if we plan on doing some off road shenanigans.

[Bill Hilly]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

I think I will do the cheap tach thing just to save some $. Thanks for the great info! I really want to make sure my idle is right because I just tuned it by ear and my ear don't know nothin'!

This is the one that I put on my TBR7, but it was $11.00 when I bought it, and only that much because it is backlit. I bought mine last fall, but the price is higher now. They do have an hour meter, which may be handy for some to base oil change times on, but if you have ever concidered upgrading clusters,to a Zanella, then you will get a tach, an accurate SpeedO( although you will probably have to program it to a 19" front), a gear indicator, and if like on my Hawk a pretty accurate fuel gauge, then the $15 tach would not be the best choice. Of course one thing the inductive tach has going for it is the fact that it's almost instant to install. I had an old broken phone mount that I mounted it to on mine. I may get a picture later. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B088N...b_b_asin_title
http://

I realize it looks like the key is blocked, but it's not the little tach is well behind the key, and interferes with nothing.

[Bill Hilly]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Just my 2 cents. On a mostly stock bike just a 17 tooth front might be all you need (or just a 45 rear) if all you plan on ever maxing out at is 55 to 60. That will give better 5th gear cruising rpm without hitting 60 at 8500rpm but won't sacrifice too much of the torque going to the rear wheel.

I would say, do the rear first, see if you like it. If you feel you need more gear the front sprocket is super easy to swap out. Some of us will even change front spockets based on what we plan on using the bike for, running a 17 front when using it for road duty and then swapping in a 15 or even 14 front if we plan on doing some off road shenanigans.

That's what I do , I seem to gear them a little higher, using a 42/17 with the smaller rear wheel (TBR7, and old Brozz), and a 46/17 with the larger one (Hawk), then I realize, like BigDanO, that I don't need my bike to run anymore than a steady 55 , and then end up putting on a 16 tooth front, to get a little more of my power back. I think a lot of people gear their bikes too high, because their only goal is to run 70. A lot depends on ones weight, and the lay of the land, especially on an internally stock bike, but if I were to ever gear my Hawk to run a steady 70 mph, It would take me a heck of a lot of flat road, and a wind on my back to do it, and the first fairly long,slight uphill grade would drag me back down to 4th.

[bigdano711]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Just my 2 cents. On a mostly stock bike just a 17 tooth front might be all you need (or just a 45 rear) if all you plan on ever maxing out at is 55 to 60. That will give better 5th gear cruising rpm without hitting 60 at 8500rpm but won't sacrifice too much of the torque going to the rear wheel.

Thank you for posting that, Megadan, 'cause that's exactly what I was thinking. I will likely upgrade the sprocket studs to the Honda studs, tho.

I figure 60 is plenty fast for this bike and it gives the knuckleheads barreling up my butt a chance to slow down before punting me and my Hawk into a ditch. As soon as I spot someone in my rear view I will be looking for a place to pull off and let them pass. And I will definitely be wearing a full face helmet and decent gear.


Here is the one mod I'm thinking of doing:





https://www.amazon.com/NIBBI-RACING-Motorcycle-Filter-Performance/dp/B01DFBJ524/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2O3G9F1CS2618&keywords=nibbi+racin g+angled+air+filter&qid=1690836404&sprefix=nibbi+r acing+angled+air+filt%2Caps%2C244&sr=8-2


I will be mating to stock intake/carb. Is 48mm the right size?

[Megadan]

I've gone over 70 on my Hawk a few times. It's plenty capable of it, but even as silly as I can be, I tend to keep it at 60 to 65 anyway as past the requires pushing the motor pretty hard.

[Bill Hilly]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

Thank you for posting that, Megadan, 'cause that's exactly what I was thinking. I will likely upgrade the sprocket studs to the Honda studs, tho.

I figure 60 is plenty fast for this bike and it gives the knuckleheads barreling up my butt a chance to slow down before punting me and my Hawk into a ditch. As soon as I spot someone in my rear view I will be looking for a place to pull off and let them pass. And I will definitely be wearing a full face helmet and decent gear.


Here is the one mod I'm thinking of doing:





https://www.amazon.com/NIBBI-RACING-Motorcycle-Filter-Performance/dp/B01DFBJ524/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2O3G9F1CS2618&keywords=nibbi+racin g+angled+air+filter&qid=1690836404&sprefix=nibbi+r acing+angled+air+filt%2Caps%2C244&sr=8-2


I will be mating to stock intake/carb. Is 48mm the right size?

You will need the 42 with the stock carb
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09W2...b_b_asin_title

I ran mine with a stock 50 rear, and a 17 front for a while right after I got it, and it definitely helped it drastically compared to the 50/15 set up, but it was still just a little low for me, but it would run the speed limit (55), but it was getting up there in rpm, which they say doesn't really bother these motors to run around 8,000 , but I already had a 46, so I changed it out.

[Megadan]

A word of warning with those cheaper filters. They are paper fiber, not cotton. If they get wet, they are ruined and you are stranded until it completely dries out.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by Megadan

A word of warning with those cheaper filters. They are paper fiber, not cotton. If they get wet, they are ruined and you are stranded until it completely dries out.

Good to know, thanks.

[GypsyR]

Years ago when I had a flat track bike we tried various filters with it while testing on a water dyno and found those kind of filters (K&N style) quite restrictive. I've been using the foam style filters on everything ever since.

[bigdano711]

Originally Posted by Megadan

A word of warning with those cheaper filters. They are paper fiber, not cotton. If they get wet, they are ruined and you are stranded until it completely dries out.

What are you running on yours, Megadan? Same question to you, GypsyR

[GypsyR]

The last couple of years I've been running "Uni" brand foam filters on all my bikes. The Templar 250 I have has a decent enough foam filter from the factory for me. Hawks like yours I know nothing about I'm afraid.