Just took delivery of my new Venom X22R... - Page 6

**JerryHawk250** · 03-19-2020, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

Great, thanks again Jerry. And yeah, I have huge hands.

I’m also considering getting some weighted bar ends to reduce the vibrations even further. I’ll let everyone know what I get and how well they work.

Whenever you change the rear sprocket you will notice a big reduction in vibration. The engine won't be revving so high when cruising 55-60 mph.

Chrisguga · 03-19-2020, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Whenever you change the rear sprocket you will notice a big reduction in vibration. The engine won't be revving so high when cruising 55-60 mph.

That’s definitely next on my list. I need to go ahead and order the sprocket so it’s ready to go when I have time to install it.

**JerryHawk250** · 03-19-2020, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

That’s definitely next on my list. I need to go ahead and order the sprocket so it’s ready to go when I have time to install it.

You will be amazed how much different the bike will feel. I did the same on my Hawk. That thing was geared to climb trees. lol

Chrisguga · 03-19-2020, 09:28 PM

Tonight, I have the carb back on and I think everything went back together correctly. I went with the 105 jet per Jerry’s suggestion with my otherwise stock bike.

I also installed the phone holder with charger. It won’t charge through my case apparently, but I just ordered a 5 pack of black 6” charge cables so I can charge my phone on the run if needed. I can just plug one into this charge port on the side of the holder and underneath into my phone.

I also readjusted the brake and clutch levers to as low a position as possible without hitting the windshield and tightened up the clutch adjustment a bit to remove some slack.

I’m going to install the Speedo DRD next. Jerry, do you have any pictures of the wire location you tapped for this? Apparently one wire goes to power, ground, and then signal in and out.

Thanks!

**JerryHawk250** · 03-19-2020, 09:42 PM

I don't remember the colors of the wires but can check tomorrow after I get off work if you need me to. I used a volt meter to determine which was positive and negative. The remaining wire will be the signal wire. That's the only wire you need to cut. The power and ground I just stripped the plastic coating and crimped the bullet connectors on.

Chrisguga · 03-19-2020, 09:44 PM

Where is the wire located? I can’t even figure that out with any certainty. lol

**JerryHawk250** · 03-19-2020, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

Where is the wire located? I can’t even figure that out with any certainty. lol

Just follow the wire up from the speed sensor on the left side of the front wheel.

**JerryHawk250** · 03-19-2020, 09:50 PM

Chrisguga · 03-19-2020, 09:52 PM

Gotcha. That was my thought as well, but I only saw one black wire. I guess I need to strip that back to expose the different colored wires.

**JerryHawk250** · 03-19-2020, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

Gotcha. That was my thought as well, but I only saw one black wire. I guess I need to strip that back to expose the different colored wires.

The wires are exposed under the dash at the speedometer connector.

Chrisguga · 03-19-2020, 10:10 PM

Are you accessing that by removing the dash cluster? Coming in from underneath? What’s the best route?

**JerryHawk250** · 03-19-2020, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

Are you accessing that by removing the dash cluster? Coming in from underneath? What’s the best route?

I did mine when I had the side panels off. You might be able to reach in from underneath and unplug it from the cluster.

Chrisguga · 03-20-2020, 11:57 AM

I gave up on it for last night, but you actually unplug a plug from the cluster, splice it, and then plug the plug back in?

I’m debating whether I want to further take apart the front plastics on the bike or save that for when I replace the headlight bulbs in the next week or two.

**JerryHawk250** · 03-20-2020, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

I gave up on it for last night, but you actually unplug a plug from the cluster, splice it, and then plug the plug back in?

I’m debating whether I want to further take apart the front plastics on the bike or save that for when I replace the headlight bulbs in the next week or two.

Yes, that's what i did. If i were you i would wait till you do the bulbs. It would be much easier and less stressful. lol

Chrisguga · 03-20-2020, 04:48 PM

So I’m not sure what I installed incorrectly, but when I first tried to fire the engine, it rev’d to redline without any throttle input and I had to hit the kill switch to shut off the engine.

The throttle feels like there’s no tension when applying throttle, but the cable moves the piece on the carb like it appears it should.

It acts like the throttle is wide open, but I have no idea why.

:edit: Here is the position with the throttle closed and open.

It definitely feels like much less tension when I twist the throttle, but I don’t know why.

03-19-2020, 09:42 PM	#5
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,592	I don't remember the colors of the wires but can check tomorrow after I get off work if you need me to. I used a volt meter to determine which was positive and negative. The remaining wire will be the signal wire. That's the only wire you need to cut. The power and ground I just stripped the plastic coating and crimped the bullet connectors on. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold) 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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03-19-2020, 09:50 PM	#8
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,592	__________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold) 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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03-19-2020, 09:44 PM	#6
Chrisguga Join Date: Feb 2020 Posts: 187	Where is the wire located? I can’t even figure that out with any certainty. lol
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03-19-2020, 09:52 PM	#9
Chrisguga Join Date: Feb 2020 Posts: 187	Gotcha. That was my thought as well, but I only saw one black wire. I guess I need to strip that back to expose the different colored wires.
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03-19-2020, 10:10 PM	#11
Chrisguga Join Date: Feb 2020 Posts: 187	Are you accessing that by removing the dash cluster? Coming in from underneath? What’s the best route?
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03-20-2020, 11:57 AM	#13
Chrisguga Join Date: Feb 2020 Posts: 187	I gave up on it for last night, but you actually unplug a plug from the cluster, splice it, and then plug the plug back in? I’m debating whether I want to further take apart the front plastics on the bike or save that for when I replace the headlight bulbs in the next week or two.
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