new hawk 250 issues - Page 6

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 04:41 PM

Heres a picture of the mark.

**JerryHawk250** · 11-09-2017, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehawk

I am on the mark directly after the T, they are both visible in the hole. I did not pull the plug, I put it in gear and pushed watching it rotate until the correct location then removed the head to see the valves.

As Azhule states. You may not be on the right stroke. Make another full rotation to TDC and see if they loosen up.

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 04:47 PM

Ok, I can try that. So, remove the spark plug and then use the kick start to rotate? is it safe without the valve head on? or should I put the top back on?

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 04:48 PM

should I tighten the nuts back up on the valve first?

**JerryHawk250** · 11-09-2017, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehawk

Ok, I can try that. So, remove the spark plug and then use the kick start to rotate? is it safe without the valve head on? or should I put the top back on?

yes it's ok. you just don't want to run it with it off.

**JerryHawk250** · 11-09-2017, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehawk

should I tighten the nuts back up on the valve first?

no need to. Your not going to start the engine.

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 04:57 PM

Silly question at this point, but it is the T line that I want to be at right? there was also a F and a set of lines

**JerryHawk250** · 11-09-2017, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehawk

Silly question at this point, but it is the T line that I want to be at right? there was also a F and a set of lines

Yes it is the T

Megadan · 11-09-2017, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehawk

Silly question at this point, but it is the T line that I want to be at right? there was also a F and a set of lines

Yes, the T is correct, it stands for Top Dead Center (TDC). The F is the base timing mark for the ignition, basically, it stands for "Fire" or plug fire point.

Since a 4 stroke crankshaft rotates 2 full revolutions to begin all 4 strokes again, there are two points of TDC. The compression stroke, and the end of the exhaust stroke/start of the intake stroke.

The reason your adjusters never get loose is because you are on the exhaust stroke at TDC. Because of this the camshaft is just coming off of the exhaust valve being open and just starting to open the intake valve.

You want to be at TDC on the compression stroke. Neither valve is in any stage of actuation, so there is no pressure on the adjusters. If you leave the adjusters where they are and turn it over one more time, they should go loose when the T mark is again in the same position you have it now. Even with them adjusted, you will notice they will have just the slightest bit of slack to them and wiggle around a tiny bit.

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 05:17 PM

Megadan, you are awesome. It opened up. So i want .004 in both sides, correct? Or should i do .003 on one and .004 on the other?

Megadan · 11-09-2017, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehawk

Megadan, you are awesome. It opened up. So i want .004 in both sides, correct? Or should i do .003 on one and .004 on the other?

You can go with .003 and .004. It will work just fine.

The actual range of adjustment on these is .003 with a plus or minus of .001. That means you can set them between .002 and .004 and be fine. During break in, I ran the .003 and .004, and just checked the valve clearances every oil change for the first few hundred miles, then again at 1000 miles, where I then set mine to .002 intake and .003 exhaust.

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 05:24 PM

The nuts, how tight should i tighten? Pretty good or just a little over finger tight?

Megadan · 11-09-2017, 05:37 PM

They don't need to be super tight. Definitely don't go Gorilla on them. Set your clearances, hold the adjuster still, spin it finger tight, and then give them a good snug up, roughly around 1/8th to 1/4 of a turn at most. Make sure to keep that adjuster still while tightening the nut up.

Then, check your clearances again to make sure the adjuster didn't get turned with the locking nut. You will likely find you have to do it all over again lol. It takes a little practice to get it right if you haven't done it before.

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 06:33 PM

ok, I finished and got it all back together. Now the battery is dead. How on earth did that happen? Maybe I left the headlight on? anyway, anyone got any ideals on how to get it started with a dead battery? I have jumper cables, but would hooking it up to the car be a smart thing?

Megadan · 11-09-2017, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehawk

ok, I finished and got it all back together. Now the battery is dead. How on earth did that happen? Maybe I left the headlight on? anyway, anyone got any ideals on how to get it started with a dead battery? I have jumper cables, but would hooking it up to the car be a smart thing?

It is not recommended hooking up to the car to jump. If you have no other options, then you can connect to the car battery with the car NOT running. This can be done in a pinch to help jump a bike. Otherwise, it's a good idea to get a trickle charger that is at most 2 amps, preferably a bit less. You may be able to find one at WalMart or a local parts store. It's a good idea to have one anyway, because if you store your bike for any length of time (weeks or longer) then it is a very good idea to have the battery hooked up to a trickle charger to keep it going flat.

If the battery has a little life in it, you might be able to get it started with the kick starter and/or a good bump start with the bike in a higher gear.

11-09-2017, 05:37 PM	#88
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,065	They don't need to be super tight. Definitely don't go Gorilla on them. Set your clearances, hold the adjuster still, spin it finger tight, and then give them a good snug up, roughly around 1/8th to 1/4 of a turn at most. Make sure to keep that adjuster still while tightening the nut up. Then, check your clearances again to make sure the adjuster didn't get turned with the locking nut. You will likely find you have to do it all over again lol. It takes a little practice to get it right if you haven't done it before. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
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11-09-2017, 04:47 PM	#78
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	Ok, I can try that. So, remove the spark plug and then use the kick start to rotate? is it safe without the valve head on? or should I put the top back on?
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11-09-2017, 04:48 PM	#79
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	should I tighten the nuts back up on the valve first?
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11-09-2017, 04:57 PM	#82
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	Silly question at this point, but it is the T line that I want to be at right? there was also a F and a set of lines
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11-09-2017, 05:17 PM	#85
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	Megadan, you are awesome. It opened up. So i want .004 in both sides, correct? Or should i do .003 on one and .004 on the other?
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11-09-2017, 05:24 PM	#87
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	The nuts, how tight should i tighten? Pretty good or just a little over finger tight?
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11-09-2017, 06:33 PM	#89
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	ok, I finished and got it all back together. Now the battery is dead. How on earth did that happen? Maybe I left the headlight on? anyway, anyone got any ideals on how to get it started with a dead battery? I have jumper cables, but would hooking it up to the car be a smart thing?
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