07-22-2022, 12:05 PM | #76 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 116
|
Project is still alive. Engine is in place. Cradle is welded. Waiting on the radiator mounts.
Current Progress pictures: |
|
07-22-2022, 02:16 PM | #77 |
Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Houma, La.
Posts: 11,707
|
Nice work!
__________________
2024 Linhai 300 ATV 4x4 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold) 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel |
|
09-05-2022, 01:49 PM | #78 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 116
|
Guess who's got their frame back? I spent last night sanding, priming, and spraying the frame. This morning, I put the engine back in, reattached the swing arm, and tested the engine position/alignment. First order of business is to make spacers to keep the engine locked in place, the spacing we decided on allows removal of the engine without throwing your back out or having an extra limb, but as a result I have 8-10mm gaps that will require a spacers. I am currently trying to decide if I want to go aluminum, delrin, or polyurethane. I know aluminum and delrin will lock the motor in but transfer vibration into the frame. Poly will absorb some vibration, but will flex and require replacement at some point. I've got a few local contacts I can discuss this with and should have them fabbed up by next weekend. |
|
09-06-2022, 05:40 AM | #79 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea
Posts: 1,481
|
I'd do aluminum or steel. Honda used some big old steel or pot metal spacers for the CB/CG engine family for the upper rear crankcase mount. My thought would probably lean towards mild steel, because if the engine is otherwise bolting up to the frame, on steel mounts, I would think you wouldn't run into any durability issues relative to the other mounts, but that's my (non) professional opinion.
|
|
09-06-2022, 04:28 PM | #80 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 116
|
Measurements for the spacers:
Upper:
Lower:
Swing Arm:
|
|
09-06-2022, 07:59 PM | #81 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 116
|
Rough cut spacers for the engine. As suggested, I used mild steel.
Test fitting these tonight and then starting on the swing arm spacers. |
|
09-07-2022, 09:49 PM | #83 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 116
|
Slow day today. Spacers have the engine locked in. The lower bolt needs to be a bit longer than I anticipated so I will need to make a run to Fastenal or Home Depot tomorrow to get a 3/8 bolt that is long enough.
With the engine in place, I can start re-assembling the rear end and test chain alignment. One thing I noticed is that the rear brake pedal will require some bends to accommodate the larger engine case, but nothing some time with the torch can't solve. |
|
09-08-2022, 08:50 PM | #84 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 116
|
I refitted the back wheel to test the chain alignment this afternoon.
The feeler gauge I need 0.08mm is on its way and should be here tomorrow. Once I've got the valves set, I'll start plumbing the radiator and hoses. Then it's on to the body panels and wiring. |
|
09-10-2022, 01:16 PM | #85 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 116
|
Re-mounted the rear end. Slowly starting to look more like a motorcycle again.
Valves are getting done today and then on to wiring. I've decided to hold off on the radiators as it is becoming apparent I will need to do some fabrication the exhaust. The CRF230F flange needs to be adjusted to fit the NC250 and the bends are now no longer aligned with the muffler. |
|
09-11-2022, 06:44 PM | #86 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 116
|
Valves are done. Word of advice for anyone who has one of these motors: the flywheel magnets are POWERFUL. They will throw the flywheel each time you get near TDC. If you can avoid using a rachet, do so.
Also you won't be able to see the cam while you are doing the valves, unless you take apart the head, so just watch the valve rockers to find the "right" TDC. All the valves should be closed. Rear valves, as we all knew, were a little bit of a pain but not awful. No worse than other bikes I've worked on. They are now all set to 0.08mm |
|
09-24-2022, 11:26 AM | #87 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 116
|
Lighting harness is mounted and complete. Gauges and all accessories work. I have one remaining wire to run for the tachometer, but I won't do that until I am closer to starting.
Engine harness is 90% ready to go. Currently working on mounting solutions for the CDI and Coil. Confirmed the harness is powered properly. Radiators are at about 80%. I have all the hoses, just waiting on the couplers so I can finish. Remaining items:
|
|
09-27-2022, 11:43 AM | #88 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 116
|
Rads are now plumbed. I used the RX3's coolant loop. I got a new Masterlink for the chain, but I need to get the clip on still. Clutch cable has been figured out (I just needed to slow down while adjusting the tension). I made a bracket for the coil to mount above the cylinder (no pic yet) and I have decided to mount the CDI on the underside of my seat to save some space.
Some in progress pictures: |
|
09-27-2022, 12:58 PM | #89 |
Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Houma, La.
Posts: 11,707
|
Looking good!
__________________
2024 Linhai 300 ATV 4x4 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold) 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel |
|
09-28-2022, 03:24 PM | #90 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 116
|
I ordered a 34mm Nibbi PWK carb today. Oddly, 33 pilot jets are a lot harder to find than I thought (might just be where I am located).
For now I will be going with: Pilot: 35 Main: 135 Needle: 2nd clip from the top Once the carb is in, I can start working through draining/remounting the gas tank, remounting the seat, and finally getting to work on the exhaust. |
|
|
|
|
|