Jet's Hawk 250

[pcspecialist]

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/TT250-...p/zt26-107.htm

[jet321]

So the Hawk left me stranded yesterday. It just died. So the issues are, the electric start was working and turning the bike over but now it will not work. I could get a running start with the bike and drop it into gear to start it. Then it would start but then I would get about 1/2 a mile and it would just begin to die and as soon as I pull in the clutch the bike dies. When I press the electric start the gauge cluster blanks out and looks like it's resetting. If you need more details let me know. It's an electrical problem I assume, because I've torn the carb apart very recent, and there is fuel coming from the tank.

[BlackBike]

https://www.kazumaracing.com/trouble...s-p-13392.html

http://www.buggydepot.com/tech-cente...uide-no-spark/

Hope this helps, from recent posts

[pcspecialist]

What is your battery voltage? If you manage to get it started again, try to see what voltage it is charging at.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by pcspecialist

What is your battery voltage? If you manage to get it started again, try to see what voltage it is charging at.

X2

[jet321]

I got the bike to start and had it idling for about 5 mins without issue. But in the process to get it going this device in the red circle is buzzing every time I'm pressing the ignition. After it was idling I turned it off to try to start it again and it would not start, and that little device keeps buzzing. The battery drops to 5V when starting which I assume is normal. The batter is 12.5V when it was idling. Any ideas? This bike has become such a headache, I can never ride it due to issues constantly coming up.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by jet321

I got the bike to start and had it idling for about 5 mins without issue. But in the process to get it going this device in the red circle is buzzing every time I'm pressing the ignition. After it was idling I turned it off to try to start it again and it would not start, and that little device keeps buzzing. The battery drops to 5V when starting which I assume is normal. The batter is 12.5V when it was idling. Any ideas? This bike has become such a headache, I can never ride it due to issues constantly coming up.

That device in the red circle is, I believe, the starter solonoid. It buzzes when you have low voltage. The fact that when starting the voltage drops to 5 volts tells the story. What I would do is jump the battery of the car or a riding lawnmower. It should stop buzzing and show over 13 volts when you rev it up a little. It should also show 11 volts or more while cranking. After you've had it running long enough to prove it will continue to run ok, check the voltage, then disconnect the jumpers. If the voltage stays above 13, the charging circuit should be ok. If you shut it off and after a couple of hours, re-start it. If the voltage goes down to below 10 while starting it, either the battery is no good OR THERE IS A GROUND PROBLEM that needs to be addressed.

[jet321]

So you think it's a battery problem? I think that would make sense, the battery probably doesn't have the Amps to turn the bike over. We'll see, I'll check the levels tomorrow. Does anyone know where I could get a new battery? Or recommendations? Thanks.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by jet321

So you think it's a battery problem? I think that would make sense, the battery probably doesn't have the Amps to turn the bike over. We'll see, I'll check the levels tomorrow. Does anyone know where I could get a new battery? Or recommendations? Thanks.

Yes, it could be a battery problem. Now if you follow the procedure I outlined, the odds are that it is a battery problem, but, only if it fails the last test I described. I notice that you didn't think much of my comment on a ground problem. I would go through the whole routine before I bought a battery. But I know a way to test a battery that will 90% tell you if it is good. Charge the battery for two days on a trickle charger. Un-hook the charger and let the bike sit for 24 hours. Then hook up you voltmeter and watch what it does when you turn on the key - should read around 13 volts. Then push the starter button. If the voltage goes below 10 volts while cranking the engine, you've probably got a bad battery.

[pcspecialist]

12.5 volts while the engine is idling doesn't help much, what is it when it is 3,000 rpm or higher? If still 12.5 volts, you have charging issues.

[pete]

charging voltage should be in the low to mid 14 volts..
like was said... have the revs up..3000rpms or so..

start testing at the battrey... if low there work back down the charging ciruct
to the stator....


..

[jet321]

Alright guys, did some more testing.

W/O external power (NOT hooked up to car)
Bike is off - Battery - 12.3V
Bike is starting up - 3.8V - won't actually start

Will not start, starter regulator is buzzing
__________________________________________________ ____________

W/ External power (hookup to car)

at idle 13.0V and dropping after I remove the external power

3K RPM - 4.5V and slowly climbs (0.1V per sec +/-)

If I take her off external power she just slowly dies, and 1 out of the 4 starts, it was idling rough.

These tests were all done right off the battery.

__________________________________________________ ____________

I think this is a combo of a bad battery and stator.

I am still lost as to what the main issue could be, I'll have to check all the grounds too, if someone can show me a thread with that or just post where they are located I can check them.

I also have the battery on a trickle charger as of now.

Thanks again.

[jet321]

Will all the TT250 parts work on the haw; stator, rectifier, ignition coil?

[pcspecialist]

ignition coil will, I bought one for a spare. The stator and/or rectifier would require replacing the entire charging system.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by jet321

Alright guys, did some more testing.

W/O external power (NOT hooked up to car)
Bike is off - Battery - 12.3V
Bike is starting up - 3.8V - won't actually start

Will not start, starter regulator is buzzing
__________________________________________________ ____________

W/ External power (hookup to car)

at idle 13.0V and dropping after I remove the external power

3K RPM - 4.5V and slowly climbs (0.1V per sec +/-)

If I take her off external power she just slowly dies, and 1 out of the 4 starts, it was idling rough.

These tests were all done right off the battery.

__________________________________________________ ____________

I think this is a combo of a bad battery and stator.

I am still lost as to what the main issue could be, I'll have to check all the grounds too, if someone can show me a thread with that or just post where they are located I can check them.

I also have the battery on a trickle charger as of now.

Thanks again.

Well, I think you have proved (at least to me) that the battery is no good. The fact that it is not charging the battery is troublesome. Maybe first place to look is at the voltage regulator (rectifier). Also check the wiring plugs where it connects to and from the regulator. Run a jumper wire from the bolt holding the regulator to the frame to the battery ground. If it starts charging, ground problem. Since you have a voltmeter, you can check alternator out put. Don't remember the numbers you should get, but more than 14 volts at idle, and more than 30 revved up should mean the alternator and wiring to the regulator is ok. There have been reports of problems in the plugs. So check that the pins are straight, so you get a good connection. Let us know what happens. If, after a full day or two on the battery charger, the battery comes up enough to hold 10 volts while cranking, the battery may be salvageable. If so, than you know for sure the problem lies some where in the charging circuit.