Go Back   ChinaRiders Forums > Technical/Performance > Dual Sport/Enduro
Register FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-29-2022, 06:02 PM   #856
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Central VA
Posts: 1,301
Since ownership info is probably scattered between a bunch of different threads and pages, i'd say best to start a new Templar M/X Thread and ask for ownership info.. things like you mention along with ownership date or length of ownership, miles, mods, etc
__________________
2024 Templar 250
2021 Beta 500 RRS
2018 VStrom 1000 XT

Former China Bikes: Tao DBX1, Brozz 250, CSC RX4, Titan DLX, Templar X, Storm DLX 150


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2022, 11:06 PM   #857
Texas Pete   Texas Pete is offline
 
Texas Pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 612
Third and final wiring and cable rerouting 01

Well I had pre-inspection OCD. The guy on the phone at the inspection company let me know they must see the plate on the bike. That is jammed behind the headlight assembly and on my bike the wiring bag is smashed up against it blocking the plate. I had nightmare of some kid trying to move my wiring to see the plate and breaking the wires or other skullduggery.


Plus I wasn't happy with the factory routing of the cabling, I still didn't have 100% clear view at all times during riding of the digital dash. And reading posts of people having to get whole headlight assemblies to replace the headlight didn't sound right so for the third and finally, hopefully, final time I took off the headlight assembly and went to town.


Name:  Third and final removal of headlight assembly.jpg
Views: 2863
Size:  176.9 KB


Focusing on the headlight bulb assembly the rear rubber did come off and is as suspected a waterproof boot.


Name:  Boot Comes Off Reveals Connector and Spring Lock.jpg
Views: 2842
Size:  146.1 KB


Behind the boot is a connector, that means a bulb that is replaceable to my mind.


Name:  Out Comes The H4 9003 Bulb.jpg
Views: 2803
Size:  137.8 KB


And low out comes a H4 9003 LED bulb! Absolutely no markings, no data, probably the cheapest H4 9003 LED that could be bought in bulk for OEM use. Likely not the full wattage limits for H4 9003 allowed on the roads here.


Name:  Lots Of Aluminum Passive Heat Sink.jpg
Views: 2824
Size:  120.4 KB


Lots of passive aluminum heat sink material. I note that some of these higher wattage replacement bulbs have active fan cooling, but the space behind the headlight assembly is tight with all the wires smooshed up against the back of the headlight bulb.


Name:  Three Prong Connector.jpg
Views: 2784
Size:  113.3 KB


Yep. Looks like a standard connector and it has alignment tabs. Why would that be... (to be continued)
__________________
2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2022, 11:10 PM   #858
Texas Pete   Texas Pete is offline
 
Texas Pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 612
Third and final wiring and cable rerouting 02

Looking at the light in operation.


First the low beams. Oddly enough this headlight assembly includes a European Parking light in the headlight. And when you turn on the low beams for some reason it turns on the European Parking light as well. I can find no separate parking switch so far on the bike that would activate the parking light for an actual parking scenario.


The top of the H4 9003 bulb activates when the low beam is turned on. This hits the top reflector in the bulb which seems to be angling the light down to the road.



Name:  Low Beam Lights Top Reflector And A European Parking LIght As Well.jpg
Views: 4624
Size:  134.6 KB


Switching to high beam this bulb keeps the low beam turned on, and keeps the European Parking light turned on, but this time it adds the LEDs from the bottom of the H4 9003 bulb.


These LEDs hit the lower reflector which is angled upwards shining the extra light above the ground splash of low beam light and further down the road.

Name:  High Beam Adds Lower Reflector To Low Beam And Also European Parking Light.jpg
Views: 4597
Size:  131.3 KB




EDIT: So the alignment tabs just keep numpties from putting the bulb in upside down and have the low beams turn on and hit the lower reflector and shining far down the road.
__________________
2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2022, 11:15 PM   #859
Texas Pete   Texas Pete is offline
 
Texas Pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 612
Time to clean up the cabling now that the headlight assembly is off

Now to the wiring bag that is jammed, smashed? stuck? against the plate. Here again its very tight behind the headlight assembly.



Name:  Very Tight Behind Headlight Assembly.jpg
Views: 2661
Size:  160.9 KB


Finally I freed the bag, it was not stuck but jammed into the holder for the cables that run back to the engine (clutch and choke).


Now that it is free I can finally move the wiring bag all the way forward toward the headlight assembly which I have now done.


Name:  Wiring Bag Finally Freed From Blocking Plate.jpg
Views: 2632
Size:  161.3 KB


Now to reroute all the cables from the factory state they were in. This is the best configuration I came up with. I have fully freed up all visibility to the digital dash display.


Name:  Final Cable Rerouting Allows Full View Of Digital Dash.jpg
Views: 2589
Size:  162.2 KB


And the view from the riding position.


Name:  Full View Of Digital Dash From Riding Position.jpg
Views: 4518
Size:  166.5 KB


Now hopefully I can go jump into bed and not have bad dreams about young kids working for shops doing state inspections snapping all my wiring as they try to get to their vehicle plate part of the inspection.
__________________
2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2022, 11:24 PM   #860
Texas Pete   Texas Pete is offline
 
Texas Pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 612
Suspension time

I decided to check the suspension on the bike and dial in defaults if it was not already done at the factory.


Turns out, it was not already done at the factory


I decided to read the click positions on the valve adjustments. Starting on the top of the forks, rebound.


Left fork turned in. 18 clicks.
Right fork turned in. 17 clicks. wait what?


try right again, back out, 17 clicks huh. Turn in, 17 clicks. I have different number of adjustment clicks on my forks for the rebound valves...


I dial them both 9 clicks out of in.....


Laying on the floor fork compression valves checked. Again all the way out on both. 12 click positions on both. I set them both 6 clicks out of in...


Rear shock, 12 clicks, again set 6 out of in...




A good starting position.




Now for sag, erm. I have no idea how I'd get a shock wrench in there let alone have room to swing it. Looks like I will have to resort to screwdriver and rubber mallet. How cave man... on second though I'll leave it alone for now and adjust later in case I come up with any better ideas.




Back to front forks, rake angle. Reduced it by three bars from my original default setting of full on chopper style all the way to the top. I've riding the bike today and have a feel for how it handles with the longer wheelbase/rake. I'll test ride it tommorrow to get a feel for how this works on the street when normally it is adjusted for race track conditions on the dirt on a given day.

EDIT: Adjusting this will also affect the sag setting for those that want to dial that in perhaps do that after any changes here.

Name:  Front Forks Reducing Rake Angle and Changes Sag.jpg
Views: 4541
Size:  137.0 KB
__________________
2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2022, 11:29 PM   #861
Nutcracker   Nutcracker is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 107
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooker89 View Post
Hello all,

My new X is on the way. I have a Hawk, but was looking for something more off road ready. I have read this entire thread once and scanned it a bunch of times, but have a few questions.

I thought I saw a post about a KTM skid plate fitting, but cannot find it even with searches. Does anyone know what skid plates will fit?

Has anyone changed the levers yet? Looking for something shorter than comes on stock bikes.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Zooker
I used a Factory Aluminum 2016 KTM 300 skid plate for both my TemplarX bikes. I did need to spread the sides slightly to accommodate the width of the 172FMM3-A engine. Also required drilling new holes for bracket width and slicing into the rear bracket in half. But you can find these pretty often on eBay for $30 and there rock solid and protect well.

I love this Forum but I find it difficult to post pictures limits me from being able to explain in more detail hope this helps..


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2022, 07:34 AM   #862
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Central VA
Posts: 1,301
With regard to the X suspension settings I believe its similar to my former RX4.. with that bike Joey at CSC told me that the first several clicks to at least half-way do very little and then it starts taking effect towards the end of the positive turns. Mine are all tuned closer to the max settings end of the spectrum
__________________
2024 Templar 250
2021 Beta 500 RRS
2018 VStrom 1000 XT

Former China Bikes: Tao DBX1, Brozz 250, CSC RX4, Titan DLX, Templar X, Storm DLX 150


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2022, 09:21 AM   #863
Thumper   Thumper is online now
 
Thumper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,733
Quote:
Originally Posted by tknj99 View Post
With regard to the X suspension settings I believe its similar to my former RX4.. with that bike Joey at CSC told me that the first several clicks to at least half-way do very little and then it starts taking effect towards the end of the positive turns. Mine are all tuned closer to the max settings end of the spectrum
This was my experience. The beginning of the adjustment on dampening appears to be near the end of adjustment clicks. Yes they are adjustable, but it seems limited to the last 25% 0f adjustment range. That is for both dampening and rebound on the rear shock. You can test it by jumping on it at a stand still.


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2022, 09:23 AM   #864
Thumper   Thumper is online now
 
Thumper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,733
Thanks for the lighting analysis.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Pete View Post
Well I had pre-inspection OCD. The guy on the phone at the inspection company let me know they must see the plate on the bike. That is jammed behind the headlight assembly and on my bike the wiring bag is smashed up against it blocking the plate. I had nightmare of some kid trying to move my wiring to see the plate and breaking the wires or other skullduggery.

...
...
...
...


Yep. Looks like a standard connector and it has alignment tabs. Why would that be... (to be continued)


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2022, 10:07 AM   #865
Hap   Hap is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Maben, MS
Posts: 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Pete View Post
Looking at the light in operation.


First the low beams. Oddly enough this headlight assembly includes a European Parking light in the headlight. And when you turn on the low beams for some reason it turns on the European Parking light as well. I can find no separate parking switch so far on the bike that would activate the parking light for an actual parking scenario.


The top of the H4 9003 bulb activates when the low beam is turned on. This hits the top reflector in the bulb which seems to be angling the light down to the road.



Attachment 27974


Switching to high beam this bulb keeps the low beam turned on, and keeps the European Parking light turned on, but this time it adds the LEDs from the bottom of the H4 9003 bulb.


These LEDs hit the lower reflector which is angled upwards shining the extra light above the ground splash of low beam light and further down the road.

Attachment 27975




EDIT: So the alignment tabs just keep numpties from putting the bulb in upside down and have the low beams turn on and hit the lower reflector and shining far down the road.
The low beam on my bike shines about right. But when I put it on high it shines up in the trees. About 11 o’clock. Do you think I should flip the bulb over? Is that possible?


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2022, 10:33 AM   #866
Texas Pete   Texas Pete is offline
 
Texas Pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hap View Post
The low beam on my bike shines about right. But when I put it on high it shines up in the trees. About 11 o’clock. Do you think I should flip the bulb over? Is that possible?



It is not possible. The bulb has the three prongs as a key to prevent the bulb being installed upside down.


There is a small springed and long brass adjustment bolt and nut that should let you dial in the overal vertical aim of the headlight.
__________________
2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2022, 10:35 AM   #867
Texas Pete   Texas Pete is offline
 
Texas Pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Pete View Post
Back to front forks, rake angle. Reduced it by three bars from my original default setting of full on chopper style all the way to the top. I've riding the bike today and have a feel for how it handles with the longer wheelbase/rake. I'll test ride it tommorrow to get a feel for how this works on the street when normally it is adjusted for race track conditions on the dirt on a given day.

EDIT: Adjusting this will also affect the sag setting for those that want to dial that in perhaps do that after any changes here.
Attachment 27980
EDIT: This is all testing on street.


What a difference the rake angle made.


At the top of the forks with no bars showing my personal bike rides more like a chopper. It is more squirrely and more wanting to turn, a bit too twitchy for my liking.


Three bars down the bike is extremely planted feeling. Harder to turn. A bit too much for me.


So my journey continues towards somewhere inbetween the two settings to dial in my own personal preference.
__________________
2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2022, 10:38 AM   #868
Texas Pete   Texas Pete is offline
 
Texas Pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Pete View Post
Left fork turned in. 18 clicks.
Right fork turned in. 17 clicks. wait what?
.
.
.

Laying on the floor fork compression valves checked. Again all the way out on both. 12 click positions on both. I set them both 6 clicks out of in...
.
.
.
Rear shock, 12 clicks, again set 6 out of in...
Attachment 27980

EDIT: All testing done on street.


A much harder feeling suspension and harder ride. A bit too much for my personal preference but now I know where to start dialing in the clicks for me.
__________________
2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2022, 10:46 AM   #869
Texas Pete   Texas Pete is offline
 
Texas Pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 612
Cold weather starting on new carburetor jets

COLD WEATHER STARTING ON NEW CARBURETOR JETS

EDIT: Fuel is fresh 10% corn glue as dictated by the angry politicians. It is also treated with Sta-bil at the instructed amount on the label.


EDIT2: I realized I also heated the petcock with the hair dryer. Next time I encounter this issue I will only heat the petcock and leave the carburetor cold and see if that resolves it.


Yesterday was unusually warm. 76F.


Overnight was 32


This morning was also 32. So I got the chance to test out the carburetor and cold start when its freezing by dry outside.


And...... the bike didn't want to start


EDIT: Breaks taken in-between starts to allow the electric starter motor a chance to cool down and not overheat.


EDIT2: Before you reply, issue was subsequently tested and resolved in Post #872 in this thread:
https://chinariders.net/showpost.php...&postcount=872

  • Full choke, nothing
  • Full choke, 1/8 throttle, nothing
  • Full choke, full throttle, nothing
  • Full choke, pump full throttle 10 times, try start button, nothing


Now I'm wodering if in all my wiring cleanup and cable cleanup did I not fully seat the brake switch. Brake lights work when front lever pulled, hold in the front brake, try again, nothing


Hmmm...


On a hunch I go grab my wifes hair dryer, I turned it on and made it nice and warm inside the carburetor space inside the frame.


Full choke, 1/8 throttle, starts! then sputters and quits


Oh my, temperature related starting issues... I wonder if I need to be like Thumper and move that pilot jet up to the #45 from my increase I already did to #42. @Thumper: Did you try starting at 32F temperatures yet with your jetting?


I have 3 theories that need testing. Unfortunately tomorrow is 34F and not 32F so I won't have perfect conditions but close.

  1. The fuel restriction in the petcock due to cold mean very slow flow rate in general.
  2. The petcock itself could be machined sloppily and restricted.
  3. The carburetor, heating it should not really have had impacted anything but it started immediately after heating that whole frame area up with the hair dryer, unfortunately I hit it from both sides so on the petcock side that meant I was heating the petcock at the same time and co-mingled it into the experiment.


Tomorrow's plan is a long test due to the three combined possiblities:


  • Open petcock, perform rest of FINE-C. Try to start.
  • If not, leave petcock open, come back 30 minutes later. Try to start.
  • If not, heat petcock, try to start.
  • If not, heat carburetor, try to start.


Anyway back to the bike this morning, a bit more hair dryer warming of the carburetor section inside the frame after the start and sputter and I tried again and the engine fired up right away, but throttle was high, some smokiness in the exhaust that quickly cleared, checked digital dash and it indicated throttle above and then settling in the 2500 RPM range even after I immediately released the choke lever, enter the new post-cable and post-wiring cleanup job!

If everything tomorrow with the cold start works fine then also I will consider the throttle cable being pulled interfering with a normal start procedure.
__________________
2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility



Last edited by Texas Pete; 12-01-2022 at 08:17 AM.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2022, 10:50 AM   #870
Texas Pete   Texas Pete is offline
 
Texas Pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Pete View Post
Now to reroute all the cables from the factory state they were in. This is the best configuration I came up with. I have fully freed up all visibility to the digital dash display.
.
.
.

And the view from the riding position.


Attachment 27979

Ok, this caused a throttle cable issue. I move the wiring bag forward after freeing it up so now the space immediately behind the headlight assembly is full of wiring bag now. The throttle cable was laying over top and now when turning the handlebars right, binding and racing throttle. Not good.


It took me 3 different attempts at re-routing the cables to get the throttle cable free from any binding on full handlebar turns left and full handlebar turns right. That throttle cable is extremely short on my bike, only a hair of some free play in it, so on my bike getting the throttle cable routing set up is critical to have safe turning of handlebars while riding.


It doesn't look as pretty as in the final cleanup photo, but now its safe to ride without fear of unintended throttle up on turning.
__________________
2022 1/2 Templar X 250
- 6 gear model
- 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets
- #42 / #120 Jets
- 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed)
- Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires
- Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes
- Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong
- https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ

  1. Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet
  2. Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator
  3. Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility



Last edited by Texas Pete; 11-30-2022 at 02:35 PM.
 
Reply With Quote
Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.