new hawk 250 issues - Page 5

Megadan · 11-08-2017, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

This one seems to be a decent chain for under $40. It's the one I plan on getting. Just have to cut down to size. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OEZFKW...d=2TIDKN14UQSQ

You can definitely give it a try. The biggest quality issues with most O-ring chains tends to be the O-rings themselves. If they don't fall apart on you then you got a good deal for sure.

I just ran across this, which isn't a super amazing deal price wise, it is a bit cheaper than normal. https://www.amazon.com/D-I-D-Pro-Str...rds=428+X+ring

Ariel Red Hunter · 11-08-2017, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

I here ya. I'm still running the stock chain on my hawk and the graphite and wax works great. But will upgrade to the o-ring chain when I do wear this one out. I use to run a o-ring chain on my 200x racing. It was so easy to maintain because the o-ring sealed the pins and bearings from the dirt and mud. A quick wash down and sprayed it after it had dried off.

The wax treatment pretty well keeps the dirt from getting in the chain. On my 500 Triumph, which was either on gravel roads or off road all the time, the wax treatment done once a year kept that final drive chain in great shape for the 5 years I had the bike...ARH

thehawk · 11-08-2017, 11:04 PM

Well, I went and did the carb adjustment today. It was originally turned out only a half turn. I turned it out a total of 1.5 turns as recommended to see how it runs like that. I turned it on and warmed it up a little afterwards with the intent to ride it around for 10 min but I found out I was late to an appointment so will need to actually see if it helped or not tomorrow.
I did notice that the hose from air filter to carb was twisted and bent a little to fit to the carb. It was like the hose (which is formed) does not actually belong in that location, or was put in crooked and someone made it fit. I am wondering how much this restricts air flow. I will post pictures later. Anyone else experience this?

Megadan · 11-09-2017, 12:22 AM

Yep, a lot of those intake pipes come kinked like that. Some people simply put a hose clamp over the kinked area and tighten it until it opens up.

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 05:03 AM

Does that plastic cap at the bottom of the carb need to be replaced? it was shoved all the way in and kind of got ate up on removal but I can try and replace it if needed.

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 05:06 AM

Today I an looking at greasing the pivot/swing arm, anyone have any tips on how to do this? do I just remove the bolts,, throw some grease on them and replace?

**JerryHawk250** · 11-09-2017, 05:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehawk

Does that plastic cap at the bottom of the carb need to be replaced? it was shoved all the way in and kind of got ate up on removal but I can try and replace it if needed.

No need to replace it. It was just a tamper proof cap.

**JerryHawk250** · 11-09-2017, 05:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehawk

Today I an looking at greasing the pivot/swing arm, anyone have any tips on how to do this? do I just remove the bolts,, throw some grease on them and replace?

Yes, thats pretty much all you need to do. I installed a grease zerk on my swing arm so all I have to do is pump it up with grease every once and a while.

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 04:08 PM

Gents, i need help. I am trying to do the valve lash but the space is not opening up. I have backed the screws out almost the entire way and i still cant even get .002 in there, much less the .003 or 4. I am at TDC i think. It is as the line immediately following the t. Both are still visible in the hole. What am i doing wrong?

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 04:16 PM

Heres a picture of them.

Azhule · 11-09-2017, 04:18 PM

Are they stuck? Can you grab onto the top "square" looking part with anything to get some extra leverage to turn them and open up the gap? I think it is around a 4mm if you can find a wrench that small

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 04:18 PM

Here is another picture

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 04:20 PM

They move, just the space doesn't open up and I'm worried they will be completly removed before it does.

Azhule · 11-09-2017, 04:23 PM

Did you pull the spark plug and verify you are on the correct stroke?

thehawk · 11-09-2017, 04:28 PM

I am on the mark directly after the T, they are both visible in the hole. I did not pull the plug, I put it in gear and pushed watching it rotate until the correct location then removed the head to see the valves.

11-09-2017, 12:22 AM	#64
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,044	Yep, a lot of those intake pipes come kinked like that. Some people simply put a hose clamp over the kinked area and tighten it until it opens up. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	0

11-09-2017, 04:18 PM	#71
Azhule Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CO Posts: 1,525	Are they stuck? Can you grab onto the top "square" looking part with anything to get some extra leverage to turn them and open up the gap? I think it is around a 4mm if you can find a wrench that small __________________ "Think as you like... but this self proclaimed Professor is always right" - Buckshot "You never know what someone is hiding beneath their smile..." - NinjaTom - R.I.P.
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11-09-2017, 04:23 PM	#74
Azhule Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CO Posts: 1,525	Did you pull the spark plug and verify you are on the correct stroke? __________________ "Think as you like... but this self proclaimed Professor is always right" - Buckshot "You never know what someone is hiding beneath their smile..." - NinjaTom - R.I.P.
	0

11-08-2017, 11:04 PM	#63
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	Well, I went and did the carb adjustment today. It was originally turned out only a half turn. I turned it out a total of 1.5 turns as recommended to see how it runs like that. I turned it on and warmed it up a little afterwards with the intent to ride it around for 10 min but I found out I was late to an appointment so will need to actually see if it helped or not tomorrow. I did notice that the hose from air filter to carb was twisted and bent a little to fit to the carb. It was like the hose (which is formed) does not actually belong in that location, or was put in crooked and someone made it fit. I am wondering how much this restricts air flow. I will post pictures later. Anyone else experience this?
	0

11-09-2017, 05:03 AM	#65
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	Does that plastic cap at the bottom of the carb need to be replaced? it was shoved all the way in and kind of got ate up on removal but I can try and replace it if needed.
	0

11-09-2017, 05:06 AM	#66
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	Today I an looking at greasing the pivot/swing arm, anyone have any tips on how to do this? do I just remove the bolts,, throw some grease on them and replace?
	0

11-09-2017, 04:08 PM	#69
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	Gents, i need help. I am trying to do the valve lash but the space is not opening up. I have backed the screws out almost the entire way and i still cant even get .002 in there, much less the .003 or 4. I am at TDC i think. It is as the line immediately following the t. Both are still visible in the hole. What am i doing wrong?
	0

11-09-2017, 04:20 PM	#73
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	They move, just the space doesn't open up and I'm worried they will be completly removed before it does.
	0

11-09-2017, 04:28 PM	#75
thehawk Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 62	I am on the mark directly after the T, they are both visible in the hole. I did not pull the plug, I put it in gear and pushed watching it rotate until the correct location then removed the head to see the valves.
	0