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Old 07-11-2016, 10:36 PM   #61
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Excellent! So a 1/2" hole will do it on each side. I'm really up in the air on the "cut the ear" vs. "bigger holes" technique. I guess it also depends on available tools.
Keep us posted! Curious.....
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Old 07-11-2016, 10:46 PM   #62
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Hertz...handled the flange well

What's up with muff support. Can you trim the pipe to slide muff forward then shim up bracket to reach the hole support?

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Old 07-12-2016, 12:18 AM   #63
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It is 1/2" on each side. I started with a 3/8" bit with a 3/8" drill and that was way off. I pulled the BFD off of the wall, went the hardware store and came back with a 1/2" cobalt bit. The pipe is aluminum so it should bend but the flange is stainless steel. I want to use the hand hold bolt.
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:23 AM   #64
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I will be using exhaust heat wrap under the air box and on the header.

I also know how a certain person melted plastic.
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:57 AM   #65
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Dad's craftsman drill circa 1978
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Old 07-12-2016, 01:35 AM   #66
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Wink

He was one of those old school farm guys that could fix things and was born on 8-16-1916.
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Old 07-12-2016, 10:30 AM   #67
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hertz9753 View Post
I will be using exhaust heat wrap under the air box and on the header.

I also know how a certain person melted plastic.
Is there enough wiggle before it's all tightened down to shim that out somewhat? Maybe a lug nut as a spacer to kick it out somewhat?
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Old 07-12-2016, 11:44 AM   #68
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The space between the frame and air box is tight and should be wrapped. If you use a bracket or bend the pipe that hand hold bolt is your target and the muffler will clear the plate bracket.
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:20 PM   #69
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I plan on bending mine to get it to line up with the bolt. Were you able to bend it successfully without damage? Did you use any special techniques? (I was thinking about packing with sand and using my bench vise)
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Old 07-12-2016, 01:34 PM   #70
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I think I would take a heat gun to the air box and mold it for more clearance.


 
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Old 07-12-2016, 01:44 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ughmas View Post
I plan on bending mine to get it to line up with the bolt. Were you able to bend it successfully without damage? Did you use any special techniques? (I was thinking about packing with sand and using my bench vise)
The old fashioned way to bend a pipe is to fill it with sand, and put the pipe in a tree where there is a conveniently place limb at a good angle. Stick a rod (thick piece of re-bar) into the end of the pipe up to close to where the bend is going to be, and gently work it, a little bit at a time. I've always used an ice spud for this (Made from a Model A Ford track rod), but I suppose those are a little hard to come by these days. Anyway, work it into the sand, and be gentle.


 
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Old 07-12-2016, 01:50 PM   #72
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My mistake



Last edited by Ariel Red Hunter; 07-12-2016 at 01:52 PM. Reason: entered twice, once is enuff.
 
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Old 07-18-2016, 08:08 PM   #73
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I should have used the knife but the color matches. You can also see my black painted screw mod on the side panel. The tab was broke when I got the hawk.
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Old 09-10-2016, 01:56 AM   #74
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I put on some those 30mm bar risers that Mrs. 2LZ has on her TT250. The longer clutch cable and tying up the wires will have to wait until later.

I understand why 2LZ did everything at the same time.
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Old 09-10-2016, 01:12 PM   #75
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Looks great!....and most importantly, it will help get you off your wrists and elbows on the longer runs.
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