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#61 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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When you say you'd leave it open a bit, does that mean you're trying to ride with the choke closed?
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#62 |
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: the dirty stinkin UK
Posts: 71
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Correct.
I've waited till it's warm and ticking over without any choke before riding it. So when I'm riding, there's no choke on at all. But if I open it a little, it immediately pulls better and is allowed to rev higher. |
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#63 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Perhaps we're using dissimilar terminologies. You said "So when I'm riding, there's no choke on at all. But if I open it a little, it immediately pulls better and is allowed to rev higher." That appears to be a contradiction to me, since you can't open a choke that's already open.
Perhaps you are riding with the choke at least partly closed, and you're finding that it runs better with the choke fully opened. Does that sound correct?
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#64 |
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: the dirty stinkin UK
Posts: 71
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oh oh, I must be wording it wrongly!
let's clarify, in the default position, I consider the choke 'closed'. If the engine is cold, I move the lever from the default 'closed' position, to allow more (air? fuel? one of the two!) through. This is exactly what I have to do while riding to get the bike to rev further through the rev range. There's no actual choke cable on the bike, just the little lever on the side of the carb, so I can't operate the choke as well as I should be able to. As soon as the bike is warm, it ticks over ok without any help from the choke. but it won't rev through the whole range WITHOUT me operating the choke. Clear as mud eh? |
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#65 |
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Deerfield Beach FL
Posts: 1,410
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Default position is choke fully open.
Your choke should always be fully open. Remove your air cleaner and examine the choke plate if there is any confusion. If starting cold say 40 degrees or colder you may need to apply some choke.(I live in Florida and have never had to apply choke for cold start) You should always attempt to start the engine with no choke and only apply/close the choke if needed. If you do need to apply choke to start the bike after approximately 2 minutes the bike should be sufficiently warmed up for no choke(completely open). You should in almost all circumstances only be riding the bike with no choke(completely open). What is the temperature where you live and currently starting and riding the bike? 50 degrees or more and you should not need any choke(full open). If you are needing to close the choke even the slightest amount to keep the bike running after it is fully warmed up then there is something else wrong and likely your carburetor needs some attention/cleaning/adjusting. What octane gas are you running? / |
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#66 |
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: the dirty stinkin UK
Posts: 71
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Ahhh, now I see where I'm going wrong! I'm causing confusion, I'm sorry!!
I'll describe it again using the correct terminology.... From cold, (and it IS cold, frosty) I have to start the bike with choke closed. After a couple of minutes the bike warms enough to idle with out choke (open). When riding, revs are limited to a couple of thousand revs, but if I reach down and close the choke a little, then the full rev range is restored. So I'm aware that the carb needs attention, and I'm presuming that it needs re-jetting as the mix appears to be wrong. From that description, would you guys agree? (sorry for the confusion, I had totally the wrong idea about describing the choke action!!) |
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#67 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,908
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It's running lean. Before replacing jets I would move the jet needle clip one notch richer.
Edit: I see it has a pod filter so in addition to moving the clip you will probably have to get a larger main jet. |
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#68 |
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: the dirty stinkin UK
Posts: 71
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Thanks mudflap, I'll do just that.. I've seen cheap jet kits on eBay from China for about ten quid that contain 5 different size jets, or there's a UK seller that does individual jets for a fiver. I've no idea what size I've got or need, but I'll do some research. And I'll Google 'jet needle clip' too!
Don't despair, we've all gotta start somewhere! |
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#69 |
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,908
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The setup on my Lifan is similar. OHV 200 with exhaust opened up a bit and a pod filter on a Keihin type 30mm carb. Seems like I ended up with a 108 main jet.
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#70 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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If you remove the existing main jet, you might find the size stamped on it. Moving the clip might help, but the clip only affects the mid-range.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#71 |
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: the dirty stinkin UK
Posts: 71
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Great, thanks for the help!
I've ordered myself a set of 5 jets. If the current jet is, say, a 95, I wanna go UP to a higher number right? |
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#72 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Correct. For the most part, the jet sizes correspond to millimetres. A 95 main jet = 0.95mm.
__________________
Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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Tags |
125, apache, por, scrambler, street |
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