bigdano711's 2023 Hawk 250

[TominMO]

The only really accurate way to make sure the axle is straight is to measure from the center of the pivot bolt at the front of the swingarm to the center of the axle. You need the same measurement on both sides. Ignore any and all adjuster marks; just get the measurement the same on both sides. Saw this on a YT video, explained by a racetrack bike prep guy. At least then you know the sprocket is straight.

[bigdano711]

Originally Posted by TominMO

The only really accurate way to make sure the axle is straight is to measure from the center of the pivot bolt at the front of the swingarm to the center of the axle. You need the same measurement on both sides. Ignore any and all adjuster marks; just get the measurement the same on both sides. Saw this on a YT video, explained by a racetrack bike prep guy. At least then you know the sprocket is straight.

I did something similar and measured from the foot pegs, assuming they're pretty centered on the frame.


I believe I figured out what I'm doing wrong. Let me preface this by saying I am an idiot. That is my only defense.


I was only loosening the right side axle nut, leaving the left side cinched. I don't know why my head thinks it's loose on both sides, but this isn't the first time. I've done this before with bicycles. I want to thank whoever said that I might be moving the axle when I tighten the nut, because I saw that happen. It made me think a little more about why it seemed to keep coming back to the same tightness in the chain. That seemed to be consistent.


I should probably still watch a YouTube video on it, but I'm pretty sure that there is the issue. Way back when I was a Desktop Support idiot, we used to call this issue PEBKAC: Problem Exists Between Keyboard And Chair. Maybe I can update that to PEBMAW: Problem Exists Between Motorcycle And Wrench.


I sincerely apologize for wasting your time with my nonsense. Carry on.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

I believe I figured out what I'm doing wrong. Let me preface this by saying I am an idiot. That is my only defense.

Luckily for you, we have reallllly low standards here, so your membership is not in jeopardy.

[Bill Hilly]

If you loosen the axle nut, then both the left, and right sides are loose. It sounds like you ride your bike a lot, and are racking up the miles. You could be pushing your luck with the stock chain, and rear sprocket studs, but if you do keep running it, I would recommend,that the next time you expect your chain has tighten up again, get the bikes rear tire up in the air, and push the chain up hard with a finger on your left hand, and spin the wheel with your right. You will probably feel your finger raising, and then being pushed down, because of an unevenly stretched chain. Then you may as well remove the bottom shock bolt, and lift the swing arm to the point that Dan mentioned were the front, and rear sprockets are furthest apart. If you get full range of motion in the swing arm, then I would call it good enough. I've never broken one, but from what I understand, the stock chain has been known to break engine cases, and tear out wiring, when they break. You can get a better chain for not much more than the price of a few tanks of gas. If you get new sprocket studs, get genuine Honda. You can still use your stock nuts with them. On some of the Facebook pages people link the complete sets of studs from Amazon, or eBay for cheap. Unless you get actual Honda studs, you won't be doing anything except replacing one set of Chinese studs with another.

[bigdano711]

I must've stretched the chain because it is pissing me off like none other. Just realized that the axle nut loosens both sides. Clearly this thing is making me crazy. Yes, I ride every day and I will back off now knowing that the chain is likely the issue. I know nothing about which chain is better than another. I feel a reluctance to recommend one. Maybe you can tell me what chain you run?


Found the sprocket studs at Partzilla:


https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...RoCN58QAvD_BwE


Are they reputable?

[Bill Hilly]

I have bought the sprocket studs from Adept, and I think that, with shipping figured in, I save around $6 on 4 studs https://www.adeptpowersports.com/oem...-940-part.html
Do a search for 428 chain on Amazon, and you will see some non sealed Japanese chains for pretty low prices, but I have noticed that some do not claim as high a tensile strength as others. I personally bought two Niche XRing Gold chains for my Chinese bikes, because the 134 link was on sale ($29.00), so I just cut them. I see some of the longer chains cheaper than the identical shorts ones pretty often. Make sure you get enough chain . I don't know what sprockets you have, but even if you are running a fairly small rear, you should probably still get at least a 130 link. Tensile strength is important in chains, but that doesn't mean that a high claimed tensile strength will get you a good chain. I bought the JT non sealed, because it claimed a high strength, and was cheap, and it was not a good chain

[bigdano711]

Thanks, Bill. I am running stock sprockets for now, but I do have the 17t front ready to install. It seems the front chain guard won't fit over the 17t sprocket. Can it be hogged out to fit with a Dremel or similar?

[Bill Hilly]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

Thanks, Bill. I am running stock sprockets for now, but I do have the 17t front ready to install. It seems the front chain guard won't fit over the 17t sprocket. Can it be hogged out to fit with a Dremel or similar?

You can get the sprocket cover over a 17 tooth, even with a bulkier chain like the Niche XRing. A 130 probably is not going to be enough chain if you intend to run the stock 50 tooth rear sprocket. I would not ordered less than a 132, or possibly a 134 ,if you're going to be running a 17/50. I know that I keep spending your money, but I would shop around on Amazon, and get a smaller rear, and that way you can install it when you do the studs. I have learned to save money on Amazon by looking at "today's deals", and discounts on Amazon. You may see 46 tooth sprockets selling for $25.00, and a 45 selling for $15.00. Also don't be afraid to buy stuff from Amazon Warehouse, which is usually stuff the y call used, but usually just returned items from people ordering the wrong item. It seems like 43 tooth are usually way cheaper than 42, but it's really not enough difference to matter. How big are you, and what is the maximum prolonged speed you need your bike to run?
https://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-...%2C174&sr=8-14
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001A...b_b_asin_title

That 44/16 would be a nice all around ratio, if you ask me.

[Zapkin]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

Thanks, Bill. I am running stock sprockets for now, but I do have the 17t front ready to install. It seems the front chain guard won't fit over the 17t sprocket. Can it be hogged out to fit with a Dremel or similar?

it will fit you just need to finagle it and possibly roll the bike a bit to move chain as you attempt to slip it on. trust me, if a noob like me can do it, anyone can. Just be patient and it will go on.

[Texas Pete]

Save a bit more on that part number at Honda Parts Direct.


https://www.hondaparts-direct.com/oe...8-KE2-940//1/y

[Megadan]

The front sprocket cover on my bike has about 1/4 inch ground off the front lip where it was touching the Chain when trying to get wedged when installing. Doesn't cause any problems and the cover goes right on

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by Megadan

The front sprocket cover on my bike has about 1/4 inch ground off the front lip where it was touching the Chain when trying to get wedged when installing. Doesn't cause any problems and the cover goes right on

Exactly the same for my KPX when I installed the 17 tooth front. No biggie. Also, the clearance between the sprocket teeth and the KPX swingarm is about the same as a spark plug gap.

[bigdano711]

Originally Posted by Bill Hilly

You can get the sprocket cover over a 17 tooth, even with a bulkier chain like the Niche XRing. A 130 probably is not going to be enough chain if you intend to run the stock 50 tooth rear sprocket. I would not ordered less than a 132, or possibly a 134 ,if you're going to be running a 17/50. I know that I keep spending your money, but I would shop around on Amazon, and get a smaller rear, and that way you can install it when you do the studs. I have learned to save money on Amazon by looking at "today's deals", and discounts on Amazon. You may see 46 tooth sprockets selling for $25.00, and a 45 selling for $15.00. Also don't be afraid to buy stuff from Amazon Warehouse, which is usually stuff the y call used, but usually just returned items from people ordering the wrong item. It seems like 43 tooth are usually way cheaper than 42, but it's really not enough difference to matter. How big are you, and what is the maximum prolonged speed you need your bike to run?
https://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-...%2C174&sr=8-14
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001A...b_b_asin_title

That 44/16 would be a nice all around ratio, if you ask me.

Thank you for this. I am too big around the middle and that's a big reason I bought this bike. 5'11", 250 lbs. The highway in front of my place is 70 mph. I don't want to go that fast on this bike. I got it up to around 45 mph and was a little freaked, but that was on a gravel road. 55 to 60 mph would be great, but that might be asking too much. I was gonna go with the 17/45 and see where that got me. I wanted to see what replacing just the 17t front sprocket would do, but I guess I need a longer chain with the stock rear sprocket. Is that a 50t? Yes, just saw it in your post above. lol

[Bill Hilly]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

Thank you for this. I am too big around the middle and that's a big reason I bought this bike. 5'11", 250 lbs. The highway in front of my place is 70 mph. I don't want to go that fast on this bike. I got it up to around 45 mph and was a little freaked, but that was on a gravel road. 55 to 60 mph would be great, but that might be asking too much. I was gonna go with the 17/45 and see where that got me. I wanted to see what replacing just the 17t front sprocket would do, but I guess I need a longer chain with the stock rear sprocket. Is that a 50t? Yes, just saw it in your post above. lol

17/45-46 is pretty popular on the Hawks. I have a 46 rear on mine, and ran a 17 with it, but currently have a 16 with it, because even when, I do run 55, it's not for very long at a time. I posted the links to the 16, and 44 tooth sprockets, because they are both on sale, and can save you some money, and accomplish gearing in the same ballpark as the 17/45 and 17/46. It will allow you to run 55-60and
be around 7,000 rpm.

[Zapkin]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

Thank you for this. I am too big around the middle and that's a big reason I bought this bike. 5'11", 250 lbs. The highway in front of my place is 70 mph. I don't want to go that fast on this bike. I got it up to around 45 mph and was a little freaked, but that was on a gravel road. 55 to 60 mph would be great, but that might be asking too much. I was gonna go with the 17/45 and see where that got me. I wanted to see what replacing just the 17t front sprocket would do, but I guess I need a longer chain with the stock rear sprocket. Is that a 50t? Yes, just saw it in your post above. lol

I have a 17 front 44 rear and my fat butt has hit 68 on it. I don't have any performance modifications. They are not really suitable for that out of the box, but I think folks on here have modded them to the point where they are a little more stable. fork braces...better fork juice, etc. mine had a faulty discombobulator when I got it, but fortunately I was able to remove it and the bike still ran.