Haosen (Hawks etc.): Ask me anything

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by jaymalmat

Stock carb without rejetting. I have the mikuni but removed it bc it needs to be rejetted. I think. I am unsure of where to start with jet sizes. Any help? I am in Texas with an elevation of 550 ft. Front sprocket was changed to 17t.

That's a pretty low elevation, so it'll be thirsty. Before we can make recommendations, what are you using for an air filter and muffler? Is it a 200 or a 223?

[jjn]

Originally Posted by Mudflap

What happens when you get some junk in the float bowl and have to clean it?

From what I've read, and photos I've seen, the Kehin carb clone that comes on these uses three "screw" holes, instead of the four I've seen on any carb I've worked on. Someone said it comes with rivets in these three holes. Time for a drill and small drill bit. Drill the head off the three rivets. May then have to tap the holes, if they come unthreaded, or reinstall with self tapping screws. If it came with screws with no heads you can use screwdrivers on, it might be possible to take a small dremel type tool, and cut a slot in the heads so you can remove with a flat blade screwdriver. I've done that on screws where the heads have stripped out where the screwdriver contacts the screw. But, yes, bearing in mind the swill we use for gasoline in the US (ethanol/gasoline mix), we must have a carb where you can take it apart, clean the crap deposited by this gas/ethanol mix, and reassemble.

I would guess that the jet needle comes without the multiple grooves for changing the amount of gas flow, also in an attempt to tamper proof the carb. As I learned in 1980 on Japanese bikes that came jetted so lean as to be just about unrideable, you CAN shim the needle. I did that to a 1980 Suzuki GS450ST I bought brand new. In even slightly cool weather, the bike would cough and bog exactly like a bike when you try to ride off too soon while still on choke. It rode as if the engine never warmed up to operating temperature. Shimmed the needle up very slightly, and the bike ran great for the years I owned it. The "non-adjustable" needle came from the factory too low to run, but low enough to lean the system out enough to pass US emissions.

If I buy a Hawk, and it runs bad due to a too lean condition, I plan to try to salvage the stock carb. I will get the floatbowl removable. I will experiment with the jets going by what others here have already done. If I destroy the carb somehown (and I have yet to destroy one), then I'll go with the suggested Mikuni clone. The Mikuni clone IS way easier to locate jets for than the Kehin clone that comes on the bike. There are also guys that have used tiny drill bits to enlarge the holes in the various jets. You have to go with small increments, because once you drill too large, you can's put material back in the holes. I have not done this, but I would expect it's a little tough to find a way to hold the jet in place while you drill it out without ruining the threads. Easier to buy a few jets and try them out on the bike and go by seat of the pants feel, and plug color, to come up with a good running bike.

[Weldangrind]

I just bought a pin vise and a new numbered drill bit set for that purpose. My original numbered bit set only went to 60, and the new set goes from 61 to 80. Very small.

I think the trick is to hold the pin vise stationary, and then spin the jet onto it. I can't imagine trying to use a powered drill with such a miniscule bit.

[Adjuster]

The sealed carbs are very easy to unseal. Lots of YouTube videos. I purchased a Harbor Freight screw extractor and and it zipped out the tamper proof bowl screws and the little tamper plates over the idle and air screw like a hot knife in butter or however you say it. You then just take the bowl screws to ACE Hardware and get replacements.


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[Weldangrind]

I have the same tamper-proof set. I've fixed a lot of stuff with help from that set. Most recently, a waffle iron.

[Adjuster]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I just bought a pin vise and a new numbered drill bit set for that purpose. My original numbered bit set only went to 60, and the new set goes from 61 to 85. Very small.

I think the trick is to hold the pin vise stationary, and then spin the jet onto it. I can't imagine trying to use a powered drill with such a miniscule bit.

Weld can you post links to the bits and vice. I just purchased a new Mikuni carb to make jetting easier but I may try drilling out my existing jets on my Keihne or whatever it is just for the experience.

To give an idea how small my idle jet is. I took a wire bread bag wrapper like from the old days and burnt the paper off it with a lighter. The wire easily slipped through my main jet but would not fit through my idle jet. The idle jet is extremely tiny.

By the way if you ever need a very thin wire the bread bag tie trick is an oldy but goody. Perfect for cleaning out stuck windshield washer squirters and carb jets etc etc..



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[Weldangrind]

I've used a single strand from a wire brush for the same purpose.

I can't recall exactly, but this looks like the set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/21-PC-FINE-T...item4186c5295b

[jjn]

I think one could also use the smaller guitar strings? You can get high E strings down to like ..008". I play guitar, so have a good selection of strings.

This set might work?

http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Drill-Di...vise+drill+set

[Weldangrind]

That's another thing I've done. Son of Weldangrind is a guitarist, so I always have a selection of E strings.

[jaymalmat]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

That's a pretty low elevation, so it'll be thirsty. Before we can make recommendations, what are you using for an air filter and muffler? Is it a 200 or a 223?

223? I thought it was a 229cc. It's one of those. Lol. Air filter is the Uni pod recommended here in this shop mounted directly to carb outside of the airbox. It has the stock muffler with restrictor plate removed. So its wide open.

[jaymalmat]

Originally Posted by Adam Rinkleff

Here in Dallas we also have inventory for Yellow, Black, and White -- call 972-484-9988 if you want one of those.

You have the Hawk in those colors in Dallas? If so, would it be possible for me to get the plastics in white.

[Adam Rinkleff]

Originally Posted by jaymalmat

You have the Hawk in those colors in Dallas? If so, would it be possible for me to get the plastics in white.

Yah, just call the number. We ship parts from here.

[Adjuster]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I've used a single strand from a wire brush for the same purpose.

I can't recall exactly, but this looks like the set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/21-PC-FINE-T...item4186c5295b

Thanks I ordered a set. Hard to believe bits that small to drill out the jets.



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[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by Adjuster

Thanks I ordered a set. Hard to believe bits that small to drill out the jets.

You're welcome. I haven't actually tried them yet, but I'm sure they'll work well.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by jaymalmat

223? I thought it was a 229cc. It's one of those. Lol. Air filter is the Uni pod recommended here in this shop mounted directly to carb outside of the airbox. It has the stock muffler with restrictor plate removed. So its wide open.

It could be 229. Nevertheless, I'd start with a 115 main and a 30 slow jet, and go from there. Watch the plug.

If it idles well and runs at WOT throttle well, play with the jet needle height. I like to start in the middle position.

If you need to back out the pilot mixture screw (the awful screw under the carb, near the intake tube) more than two turns to make it idle, you need a larger slow jet.

Try to find an assortment of jets on eBay, so you can easily change them to whatever you wish. I follow the tip of another rider on this forum, and write the jet sizes on the bowl with a Sharpie.