Tmec-200

[culcune]

Originally Posted by mmprestine

Are you talking of the honey comb I showed how to remove? I am quite surprised by this as the catalytic converter is part of the needs to meet the epa emissions standards. Are you sure that you have the 2013 bike? The only way to really tell is to use something flexible and run it up the header pipe when it is removed.

To be honest, I have not shoved anything through the pipe, but right where the pipes meet, there is no baffling of any kind. The guy who posted a video of his '09 bike a few years back which I believe is still on the Excalibur site and Mefast site mentioned something about taking it out on his thread (not in the video) way back when he was a member here and had a thread on his bike. My '09 did not have it, but since I bought it used, assumed that the previous owner(s) might have removed it. But my new bike, right out of the crate, did not have anything as far as what was visible to the eye when I had taken the exhaust pipes off. Just for 's$%ts and giggles' I took the front pipe off yesterday and nothing. But, now that you mention it, I should stick something flexible through both peipes to see if anything is inside the pipe out of visual perspective.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by mmprestine

I put the cut pipe sections in the vice then I drilled it out. I started small to larger on the drills and once I hit 1/2" it just caught and ripped all the remaining crap out.

You're luckier than me. I tried that, and the drill eventually stalled. In my case, the cat was in a scooter muffler, so I fixed it buy using a different muffler.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by mmprestine

It takes all of 15 min to take the smog crap off. The hose that connects to the engine goes to the pump then to the carb. Just remove all of the stuff and hoses. Make a plate to cover the hole in the side of the engine and buy a vacuum cap kit from the auto parts store.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1167&ppt=N1171

How it works. The hose that goes from the carb to the pump is there to use the engine vacuum to generate a pulse signal for the pump to work. The pump has a hose connected to it that has a small canister on one side to bring in fresh air. The pump then takes this fresh air and pumps it into the exhaust to meet the emmissions test minimum.

I found that I had to jet accordingly. Since there was an increase in air flow, I had to add more fuel.

[mmprestine]

Here is the TMEC manual

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6V...it?usp=sharing

[mmprestine]

carb tuning docs

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6V...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6V...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6V...it?usp=sharing

[firedogracing]

Has anybody tried to change the front sprocket on the TMEC. I have a few customers thinking about doing that mod but I'm not sure what it will do.

[tankme]

Thanks for the carb and manual links mmprestine!

If I fail plugging the tube with weld or a bolt I'll do the aluminum plate option.

Thanks again!
Jim

[culcune]

Originally Posted by firedogracing

Has anybody tried to change the front sprocket on the TMEC. I have a few customers thinking about doing that mod but I'm not sure what it will do.

Back when I had my '09 model on the road, and had over-rear-sprocketed (if that is the technical term, LOL) with a 40 tooth rear I had custom made, I did try a couple different front sprockets. I had a couple, maybe a 13 and then a 14? But again, that was with a waaay too high geared (I think the smaller the number of teeth on the rear, the higher geared it is called) rear sprocket, so I never really got to know any effect.

When I finally had the 56 tooth rear back on there with that bike, I had the stock 17 tooth front back on.

If your customers are looking for a higher top speed, don't touch the front sprocket since it is a 17 tooth. Other than custom ordering a rear, for about $45 including shipping, one can order one from a place in England. They were the only place that would ship to the US. http://www.urbanbike.co.uk/jtr113454...ket-6129-p.asp (I would not even bother with this sprocket since the stock one is 56 tooth)

I bought this one:
http://www.urbanbike.co.uk/jtr113448...ket-1655-p.asp
(you can even read my review on this one, LOL)

You could order these via JT Sprockets US subsidiary, but the transaction is more complicated and costs more(I think it was going to cost something like $52).

I have tried to convince Wade Liu to find a supplier in China that can make 46 tooth rears for these bikes, as even the 48 does not seem to allow the bike to go over 65 mph. If you mention it to him (don't tell him I said so) he might consider it more seriously coming from a dealer!

If your customers are looking for wheelies and such and DON'T want a higher top speed, then disregard the above and slap on a 13 or 14 tooth front. I think the ones I got were off Amazon for the XR200 (don't quote me on which model Honda, but it was common, and the sprockets were cheap and relatively straightforward to put on--someone could steer you as to what model Honda the front emulates (the rear does NOT emulate any Honda!).

[culcune]

Originally Posted by tankme

Thanks for the carb and manual links mmprestine!

If I fail plugging the tube with weld or a bolt I'll do the aluminum plate option.

Thanks again!
Jim

I wanted to see all the bits and pieces of the smog stuff on my new TMEC (the '09 did not have ANY of it), and noticed that the hose that attaches to the first outlet tube was disintegrated thanks to Yuma's tremendous heat--my bike has been much louder and more aggressive sounding for a while now. I have not seen this tube because it is hidden behind the front body plastic--the plastic that attaches to the gas tank. IN other words, the air coming right out of the tube was pretty much going nowhere but out into the atmosphere.

It was disintegrated for a couple inches, and the rest of the hose is fine, so I simply cut the hose down and reattached it to the tube. Out of curiosity, I fired the bike up, and it sounded like it did when new--very quiet, almost like a scooter! It died a couple times too, at idle, although I only ran it for about 45 seconds and was not ridden (it was not warmed up). Here I thought I have been helping the atmosphere with smog equipment, and nothing was farther from the truth!

I will be looking for a plate and the removal of the smog equipment soon--I want the bike to run like my '09. I will see how it runs on Monday on my commute to work with the smog hose back on, to see how much of a difference it makes compared to it not properly attached.

Once I get the plate and it is properly sealed, and the carb capped, I envision it will be like 'old times' again!

[Weldangrind]

Culcune, if you remove the smog equipment, you might need to rejet. That is, unless you keep the catalytic converter in place. You could swap the carb and exhaust from the '09 to truly achieve the 'old times'.

[culcune]

What effect was happening if the tube that sticks out of the side of the engine was simply going into the air (bypassing the smog pump) since the rubber tube was disintegrated? The bike sounded and drove like my '09, and was kind of loud (I had bought a copper grommet for the exhaust to quiet it weeks ago, not realizing the rubber tube was disintegrated and the smog tube was simply emitting into the air--the body plastic hid all of this).

Once I cut the tube and reattached it, the bike sounded like a scooter. It seems restricted a little bit, too, but I kind of enjoy the quiet?! I might not remove it after all...

[Weldangrind]

If you blocked it, you'd get the same quiet sound. Hot exhaust was escaping through the small tube, where oxygen is supposed to be introduced, hence the noise.

[culcune]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

If you blocked it, you'd get the same quiet sound. Hot exhaust was escaping through the small tube, where oxygen is supposed to be introduced, hence the noise.

I think I will leave it as is for now--sounding quiet AND saving the environment

[hect75]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

For those who don't have access to a lathe, perhaps one of these chain rollers will work as well.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...chain%20roller

Spud, what kind of rubber slider do I need to replace mine on the Vento?

Thanks

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by hect75

Spud, what kind of rubber slider do I need to replace mine on the Vento?

Thanks

If you need a new chain slider, I suggest you order one from Taobao.com.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...44&ns=1#detail