Brand New Konker with cracked front fork - Page 4

granter · 08-01-2011, 12:58 AM

Ah hell I was installing my new off road tires and managed to do this exact same thing and cracked my front fork wheel axles holder, it didn't take much torque on the pinch bolt at all.

It sounds like there is not much luck getting a replacement part as the right side fork assembly seems to be what you can order. It looks like the piece should unbolt from the bottom but with konker out of business I'm sure it won't be easy to find a fork let alone this piece.

I'm going to look into having it welded locally here. :( Damn I was planning to take it offroading tomorrow too

granter · 08-01-2011, 01:04 AM

Maybe you can get that part?

B451 QM200GY-B(A) F43A-13 Front Wheel Bracket $90.00

http://www.konkermotors.com/pdfs/ret...rtsPricing.pdf

The konker manual seems to suggest you can, I'll have to see what this part is on the Qinqqi

granter · 08-01-2011, 01:08 AM

Interesting qingqi doesn't list the Front Wheel Bracket as a seperate part http://www.qlinkmotor.com/uploaded/P...rts%20book.pdf
like Konker does

MICRider · 08-01-2011, 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by granter

Ah hell I was installing my new off road tires and managed to do this exact same thing and cracked my front fork wheel axles holder, it didn't take much torque on the pinch bolt at all.

It sounds like there is not much luck getting a replacement part as the right side fork assembly seems to be what you can order. It looks like the piece should unbolt from the bottom but with konker out of business I'm sure it won't be easy to find a fork let alone this piece.

I'm going to look into having it welded locally here. :( Damn I was planning to take it offroading tomorrow too

Ouch, that sucks! I don't think you can get that part by itself, that's why McKonker had to buy a whole fork leg. I think he had to get someone in the States to buy if from Q Link as well since Q wont ship to Canada. It's very sad that Konker had to fold up and leave everyone with such a dodgy (as in nonexistant!) parts supply :(

SpudRider · 08-01-2011, 01:42 AM

I'm sorry to hear about the damage to the right fork on your Konker motorcycle, Granter. :( I agree with Stew. I think your best bet is to get someone in the U.S.A. to ship you a new right fork purchased from QLink.

Spud

granter · 08-01-2011, 01:59 AM

Yeah worst case I see the fork there for about 300. I'm going to see about the welding on Tuesday, and also sent qlink an email referencing the konker part to see if they sell just the part I need as another option.

2LZ · 08-01-2011, 01:56 PM

Bummer! :evil: I'm wondering if there may have been a casting issue with a group of these or something?
I've had my Q wheel on and off a half dozen times now without a problem! :?
Strange........ 8O

MICRider · 08-01-2011, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2LZ

Bummer! :evil: I'm wondering if there may have been a casting issue with a group of these or something?
I've had my Q wheel on and off a half dozen times now without a problem! :?
Strange........ 8O

Possibly, I had my wheel on and off a bunch of times too with no problem. I think the torque spec is something like 14.75 foot pounds for that bolt... Not really that much torque.

FastDoc · 08-01-2011, 02:19 PM

Bummer.

From my recent experiance with the world of welding aluminum motorcycle parts it probably can be done but you may hve to take it apart first. Plus I don't know how well the rest of the fork will hold up. On the other hand who knows how long a new part will last as this is the second failure of this type we've seen.

My guess would be a metal quality or casting issue. :?

SpudRider · 08-01-2011, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FastDoc

Bummer.

...who knows how long a new part will last as this is the second failure of this type we've seen.

My guess would be a metal quality or casting issue. :?

I agree on all points, Doc.

I think we should warn all QLink/Konker/Qingqi owners to avoid torquing this bolt too tight. :(

Spud

FastDoc · 08-01-2011, 04:24 PM

I agree. Plus if you think about the way the bolt is stressed it really does not have to be very tight. I'd say 10 ft/lbs and maybe a dab of blue Loctite would be fine. I'm happy I did not have a problem with my Q's in this regard.

SpudRider · 08-01-2011, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FastDoc

I agree. Plus if you think about the way the bolt is stressed it really does not have to be very tight. I'd say 10 ft/lbs and maybe a dab of blue Loctite would be fine. I'm happy I did not have a problem with my Q's in this regard.

Once again, I concur, oh wise physician.

In fact, I would recommend every QLink/Konker/Qingqi owner to loosen that bolt right now, and relieve the stress on that part of the fork. Then apply some red loctite, and torque the bolt only tight enough to secure the axle, without placing stress on the lower fork.

Spud

FastDoc · 08-01-2011, 07:41 PM

This reminds me of the old 'Check the swingarm pivot of your Lifan because it's gonna fall out' issues we've dealt with in the past. That was also good advise. :wink:

granter · 08-03-2011, 12:50 AM

Had the part welded with a tig welder, had a mandrel inserted where the axel goes during the welding to keep things round. Here are some pics of the weld. I painted the part but didn't have the original silver color so it's a little daker grey now.

granter · 08-03-2011, 12:53 AM

Incase anyone is curious, you can remove this piece, dealers will tell you that you can't. There is a little allen bolt that you have to undo, then heat it a bit and tap it with a piece of wood and hammer to turn it while holding the shock.

It jsut screws on, here you can see the threads, it's a bugger to get off though. I filled the shock back up with 10 weight 330 ml of fluid. Putting the shock together was pretty easy, nothing really unique about it except for the bottom in the shock you have to line the end of the shock up when you reassemble it which is a bit finicky.

08-01-2011, 01:42 AM	#50
SpudRider Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Idaho Posts: 25,054	I'm sorry to hear about the damage to the right fork on your Konker motorcycle, Granter. :( I agree with Stew. I think your best bet is to get someone in the U.S.A. to ship you a new right fork purchased from QLink. Spud __________________ Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894
	0

08-01-2011, 01:56 PM	#52
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,112	Bummer! :evil: I'm wondering if there may have been a casting issue with a group of these or something? I've had my Q wheel on and off a half dozen times now without a problem! :? Strange........ 8O __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
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08-01-2011, 02:19 PM	#54
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	Bummer. From my recent experiance with the world of welding aluminum motorcycle parts it probably can be done but you may hve to take it apart first. Plus I don't know how well the rest of the fork will hold up. On the other hand who knows how long a new part will last as this is the second failure of this type we've seen. My guess would be a metal quality or casting issue. :? __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

08-01-2011, 04:24 PM	#56
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	I agree. Plus if you think about the way the bolt is stressed it really does not have to be very tight. I'd say 10 ft/lbs and maybe a dab of blue Loctite would be fine. I'm happy I did not have a problem with my Q's in this regard. __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

08-01-2011, 07:41 PM	#58
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	This reminds me of the old 'Check the swingarm pivot of your Lifan because it's gonna fall out' issues we've dealt with in the past. That was also good advise. :wink: __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

08-01-2011, 12:58 AM	#46
granter Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 27	Ah hell I was installing my new off road tires and managed to do this exact same thing and cracked my front fork wheel axles holder, it didn't take much torque on the pinch bolt at all. It sounds like there is not much luck getting a replacement part as the right side fork assembly seems to be what you can order. It looks like the piece should unbolt from the bottom but with konker out of business I'm sure it won't be easy to find a fork let alone this piece. I'm going to look into having it welded locally here. :( Damn I was planning to take it offroading tomorrow too
	0

08-01-2011, 01:04 AM	#47
granter Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 27	Maybe you can get that part? B451 QM200GY-B(A) F43A-13 Front Wheel Bracket $90.00 http://www.konkermotors.com/pdfs/ret...rtsPricing.pdf The konker manual seems to suggest you can, I'll have to see what this part is on the Qinqqi
	0

08-01-2011, 01:08 AM	#48
granter Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 27	Interesting qingqi doesn't list the Front Wheel Bracket as a seperate part http://www.qlinkmotor.com/uploaded/P...rts%20book.pdf like Konker does
	0

08-01-2011, 01:59 AM	#51
granter Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 27	Yeah worst case I see the fork there for about 300. I'm going to see about the welding on Tuesday, and also sent qlink an email referencing the konker part to see if they sell just the part I need as another option.
	0

08-03-2011, 12:50 AM	#59
granter Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 27	Had the part welded with a tig welder, had a mandrel inserted where the axel goes during the welding to keep things round. Here are some pics of the weld. I painted the part but didn't have the original silver color so it's a little daker grey now.
	0

08-03-2011, 12:53 AM	#60
granter Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 27	Incase anyone is curious, you can remove this piece, dealers will tell you that you can't. There is a little allen bolt that you have to undo, then heat it a bit and tap it with a piece of wood and hammer to turn it while holding the shock. It jsut screws on, here you can see the threads, it's a bugger to get off though. I filled the shock back up with 10 weight 330 ml of fluid. Putting the shock together was pretty easy, nothing really unique about it except for the bottom in the shock you have to line the end of the shock up when you reassemble it which is a bit finicky.
	0