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Old 03-05-2010, 12:03 AM   #46
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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In further reference to RTV, it is intended to be colour-coded for a specific application. Clear is for glass, blue is sensor-safe, black is oil and gas resistant and red is high heat. Black would certainly stand up to intake manifold temps.

In response to your question, I'd use bulk gasket material that is intended for heat (not cork), and no sealant. If it leaks, you could always dismantle it and try sealant (despite the PITA factor).
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:50 AM   #47
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Scratching head......

Seems to me that Mikuni spigot type manifolds have kind of a raised ring on the head side that functions like an O ring creating a seal, Now I know KZ1000's have the same kind of thing, and small Hondas too, so I am wondering if you had the same, and it's just squashed flat, and kind of hardened?

The others are right, silicone is a bitch to clean up, so if I was trying to get a seal between semi-hard rubber (a flat surface) and an alloy head (another flat surface) I would use likely Permatex #2, because I have a large tube of it, and alcohol cleans it off, Now, it is not going to seal a gaping hole, but it would be ok for flat to flat. I use it on the water passages on automotive intake manifolds/ heads and the steel intake gasket, and haven't had one leak yet.


 
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Old 03-05-2010, 08:02 AM   #48
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I jb welded the carb to the intake manifold on my 86 escort. 8O

Worked great.
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Old 03-05-2010, 12:18 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reveeen
Scratching head......

Seems to me that Mikuni spigot type manifolds have kind of a raised ring on the head side that functions like an O ring creating a seal, Now I know KZ1000's have the same kind of thing, and small Hondas too, so I am wondering if you had the same, and it's just squashed flat, and kind of hardened?

The others are right, silicone is a bitch to clean up, so if I was trying to get a seal between semi-hard rubber (a flat surface) and an alloy head (another flat surface) I would use likely Permatex #2, because I have a large tube of it, and alcohol cleans it off, Now, it is not going to seal a gaping hole, but it would be ok for flat to flat. I use it on the water passages on automotive intake manifolds/ heads and the steel intake gasket, and haven't had one leak yet.
I think your theroy on the 'O ring' area being old, hard and squashed flat (sounds like me after the divorce) is correct. Is Permatex easy to find in the auto store? How long does it take to dry?
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Old 03-05-2010, 12:58 PM   #50
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Is Permatex #2 easy to find in the auto store?

It's easy here.....it kind of never "dries", it is extremely sticky/viscous, kind of hard to explain.....you would squeeze some out of the tube on your finger and smear it on the mating surface thinly/evenly, then bolt it up. You will need some alcohol to clean your finger. If you were trying to seal up a copper head gasket you would use their aviation sealer as it withstands high heat. You have to specify #2, as they make a whole range of sealing products, the #2 being general purpose.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut..._2_Sealant.htm


 
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:04 PM   #51
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Thanks. I think that's the answer.

Heres a pic of the flattened O ring 'area' on the old boot. I bet this is my problem:

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Old 03-05-2010, 02:55 PM   #52
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The BEST sealer I have ever used was some blue sh*t that I was buying from Chrysler>Rootes group>Simca. I haven't seen it for years, designed to seal up Simca air cooled engines, it would seal up a set of Harley cases 100%. It was very much like the Permatex #2, a little more viscous, and a little stickier, it would harden almost like epoxy. It would seal craters, with given the condition of some old Harley cases, it was a good thing.


 
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:46 PM   #53
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Gotta a tube of Permatex #2 at the store tonight. $6. My gaskets ($11) should be here soon. I'd LOVE if this finishes my project! It is such a nice little bike, and even in its current state rides well, but I know it can run nearly perfectly, and that of course is what I'm after.
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:34 AM   #54
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Ebay dude only sent one gasket, there were supposed to be two. I'll buy some gasket material at the auto parts store and trace this one and probably send it back as both gaskets will need to be the same thickness. Nuts.
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:12 AM   #55
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The Kawasaki is whole. :P

I made my own gaskets out of gasket material after using the correct one as a template. I sealed it all up with Permatex number 2 and it is leakfree. 8)

My 'hanging idle' was due to greatly imbalanced carbs, one was racing while the other was at idle. Unevenly yoked, as it were. :?

I adjusted them by ear, I'll bring the bike to Andy to get them properly balanced soon.

A wash and a wax, and she's going to be my commuter bike tomorrow.
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:19 AM   #56
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That rocks!

Were you able to set the carbs in a similar fashion, in addition to setting them by ear? What would your friend Andy be able to do beyond that? I'm asking because I have no experience with multiple carbs, and I'm only guessing at the procedure.
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:28 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by Weldangrind
That rocks!

Were you able to set the carbs in a similar fashion, in addition to setting them by ear? What would your friend Andy be able to do beyond that? I'm asking because I have no experience with multiple carbs, and I'm only guessing at the procedure.
Both carbs are hooked to individual vacuum gauges and one is set to the other, at idle. Andy has the instrument (he's a mechanic), and I lost/broke mine years ago. Since carbs so rarely need synchronization I'll just pay to have it done.
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:44 AM   #58
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Thanks for sharing the good news, Doc! Please let us know how well the bike runs after Andy synchronizes the carbs.

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Old 03-11-2010, 12:51 AM   #59
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastDoc
Both carbs are hooked to individual vacuum gauges and one is set to the other, at idle. Andy has the instrument (he's a mechanic), and I lost/broke mine years ago. Since carbs so rarely need synchronization I'll just pay to have it done.
That's intriguing...

How do you connect a vacuum guage to the carb? I've done that on Quadrajets to balance both sides, but I haven't seen a vacuum port on a bike carb. Maybe that's unique to multiple carb setups.
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:58 AM   #60
SpudRider   SpudRider is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldangrind
Quote:
Originally Posted by FastDoc
Both carbs are hooked to individual vacuum gauges and one is set to the other, at idle. Andy has the instrument (he's a mechanic), and I lost/broke mine years ago. Since carbs so rarely need synchronization I'll just pay to have it done.
That's intriguing...

How do you connect a vacuum guage to the carb? I've done that on Quadrajets to balance both sides, but I haven't seen a vacuum port on a bike carb. Maybe that's unique to multiple carb setups.
Here's a link to a post describing the process, WG.

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ho...ync/index.html

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