Hawk dlx engine problems

[Pharaoh]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Your bike has an ECU. No CDI.

Will the ECU allow all the electricity to stay on and allow the engine to crank but not turn over I'm also going to look into that though too

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Pharaoh

Will the ECU allow all the electricity to stay on and allow the engine to crank but not turn over I'm also going to look into that though too

With out scanning the ECU, you have no way to diagnose the problem. Does the display flash any codes? There should be information in your owners manual for that.

[J4Fun]

Originally Posted by Pharaoh

Will the ECU allow all the electricity to stay on and allow the engine to crank but not turn over I'm also going to look into that though too

Does the engine turn over briskly when you try to start?

[TominMO]

Always start with the simple and cheap fixes first. Fresh oil, adjust the valves properly, put in a new plug, make sure the air cleaner is clean enough. I know you did replace the plug, but is it a good NGK one or a crappy Chinese plug? It matters.

If none of that works, then you have further digging to do. Next, make sure all electrical connections are tight. Checking the simple and obvious things cures a lot of problems.

[Pharaoh]

If I can figure it out I think I could help a lot of DLX owners

[XLsior]

if you have compression and spark then the only thing missing is fuel..

[Pharaoh]

Update I did a compression test it was at 120 I read online it's supposed to be 140 so I automatically assumed that's probably from the valid adjustment that needs to be done I have a spark now that was some chords that was unattached probably from the neighbor but I still couldn't get enough charging my battery for it to start so the battery might be why it's not starting but that still doesn't address the problem of it shutting off after a certain RPMs

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by Pharaoh

Update I did a compression test it was at 120 I read online it's supposed to be 140 so I automatically assumed that's probably from the valid adjustment that needs to be done I have a spark now that was some chords that was unattached probably from the neighbor but I still couldn't get enough charging my battery for it to start so the battery might be why it's not starting but that still doesn't address the problem of it shutting off after a certain RPMs

If the valves are too tight, as engine temp increases the heat lengthens the valve stems, so that the valves never close all the way, which would lead to compression loss, and the motor stops. Very common on Chinese bikes which have never had their valves properly adjusted. The factories do not necessarily do it for you.

This is more common on the exhaust valve, since it always gets hot exhaust air going past it. The intake valve is cooled by the cooler air/fuel charge coming in, so is generally less of a problem.

[Thumper]

Tom is dead on. Adjust those valves before you bother doing anything else. It is a wild card that you can't avoid. Until you know your valves are opening and closing completely and at the right time, you can't really troubleshoot.

Also, 120psi compression is easily enough for the engine to end pretty normal if it's the rings. But if it's the valves, it can stop running when it gets hotter

[Pharaoh]

Great advice guys I'll see if I can get that done today

[JerryHawk250]

So I see you started another thread on the same subject. I may sound harsh but have you taken any of the advise and done the valve adjustment suggested yet? If not, do so. We can't help you if you don't take the advise given. You don't need to start multiple threads on the same subject. All that does is make it harder to resolve your issue.

[Pharaoh]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

So I see you started another thread on the same subject. I may sound harsh but have you taken any of the advise and done the valve adjustment suggested yet? If not, do so. We can't help you if you don't take the advise given. You don't need to start multiple threads on the same subject. All that does is make it harder to resolve your issue.

I didn't mean for it to seem like the same issue I started a pole thread to allow everybody to vote on their opinion because I took all the advice all of it including valve adjustment with a business card and a soda can aluminum siding and it still doesn't start so I figure I leave out certain details and give them a different angle to look at and understand the problem in a different light and was hoping that it brought fresher or renewed ideas to help get me back going. I figured if I didn't put focus on the ATF and put it more on the RPM issue that it would be a change of direction and trying to troubleshoot and fix what's actually wrong the only thing I am waiting on now as I said it's the valve adjustment tool to actually do the valve adjustments properly and a friend to bring over my old jumper cables on his car in order to give the battery a better charge to see if that is the issue in starting. I am almost completely confident that it's not starting due to battery issues right now but once that's fixed I will still have to go back to the drawing board as far as it cutting off after a certain RPMs I'm hoping a valve adjustment can fix it I was just jumping ahead of myself making sure that the next step is already available for me instead of spending another 10 hours researching that's it but if I annoyed you or anybody else or disrespected anybody I truly do apologize I wasn't meaning to offend or upset anyone just trying to get as many answers from as many angles as possible it's just part of my work ethic personality

[Pharaoh]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9n7bJ4rbr2sD1DW79

[Thumper]

Meh. It's OK.

But you do seem to have a check engine icon lit up on the instrument panel in that video.

Seems like a good idea to see if you can read the code(s) getting thrown. That would be my first step after setting valve clearance.

You can also charge the battery overnight between troubleshooting sessions. Jump it if you have to, but get a charger on that battery.

I don't have EFI like yours, so I don't get codes (just a plain ol' CDI system).

[Pharaoh]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Meh. It's OK.

But you do seem to have a check engine icon lit up on the instrument panel in that video.

Seems like a good idea to see if you can read the code(s) getting thrown. That would be my first step after setting valve clearance.

You can also charge the battery overnight between troubleshooting sessions. Jump it if you have to, but get a charger on that battery.

I don't have EFI like yours, so I don't get codes (just a plain ol' CDI system).

Thanks that was awesome advice I just recently seen that video on YouTube