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Old 08-11-2014, 12:33 PM   #46
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Excellent progress. Good call on farming out the stitching.

Your needle and seat isn't seating. Perhaps something from the carb got caught in the seat, and that could help explain the no-start condition. Perhaps the slow and main jets are also clogged. After you clean them, I recommend that you install an inline filter. Whatever debris is left in the tank will head straight for the carb.
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Old 08-11-2014, 01:44 PM   #47
cactusmelba   cactusmelba is offline
 
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Thanks Weldmeister, I'll whip the carb off, clean it out, and get a fuel filter too..

Another issue is that I was trying to re-fit the front calliper onto the forks but I can't prise apart the pads.. I tried to unscrew the lid on the hydraulic fluid chamber box mounted on the handlebars (I'm sure there's a more technical name for it than that but I personally don't know what it is!) to see if that would relieve a little pressure but the screws are SOLID. Instead I undid a little bleed nipple on the calliper itself until a little fluid came out then held it higher that the handlebars while I tried to prise the pads apart but no luck.

What am I doing wrong? (and don't say "playing at being a bike mechanic!")


 
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:42 PM   #48
bogieboy   bogieboy is offline
 
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sounds like a stuck caliper to me... mine were quite easy to pry apart when i dd my supermoto conversion... i actually just wiggled the caliper on the disk by hand to loosen the pads for the wider rotors of the ninja rims... you may need a new caliper or a rebuild, especially if they wont budge with the bleeder open... what are you using to try and move the pads? i usually use a large (1/4" or 6-8mm wide) flat blade screw driver...


 
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Old 08-12-2014, 06:44 AM   #49
cactusmelba   cactusmelba is offline
 
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Yep, just a large screwdriver. The housing moves but the pads barely move at all... Weird as they've only been off for a few weeks and were fine up to then... I'll try to adjust it's attitude with my hammer and see if anything alters ..


 
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:39 AM   #50
bogieboy   bogieboy is offline
 
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silly question but can the pads go in if you squeze the lever? dont go a lot, but maybe see if the piston just got a bit stuck?


 
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Old 08-12-2014, 05:28 PM   #51
cactusmelba   cactusmelba is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bogieboy View Post
silly question but can the pads go in if you squeze the lever? dont go a lot, but maybe see if the piston just got a bit stuck?
No. nothing's moving at all....


 
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Old 08-13-2014, 08:52 AM   #52
bogieboy   bogieboy is offline
 
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hmm... that seems to be an issue then... i assume the lever gets hard, like its building pressure? otherwise you might have a bad master cylinder... the piston on the caliper should be fairly easy to move...


 
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Old 08-20-2014, 04:26 PM   #53
cactusmelba   cactusmelba is offline
 
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Hi all,

no real progress to report, but I think I might have found out why it's not starting.. I've mounted all the electrics under the seat on a tray, and I've just been reading that some ignition coils need to be mounted on the frame to complete the loop or something, whereas mine's just sat on the tray!
I'll get it mounted onto a bracket and see if that works!


And where did I read this nugget of information that's probably basic common sense to you guys?

For my anniversary my mate bought me a "chinese 125's Haynes manual" that includes the POR Apache 125!

Best . Present . Ever!




Not tried to do anything with the brakes yet. I'll consult my manual!!



Last edited by cactusmelba; 08-20-2014 at 04:27 PM. Reason: more detail
 
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:26 PM   #54
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Hilarious! I never knew that manual existed. Please feel free to share bits of wisdom from that manual as you find stuff.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:17 AM   #55
SpudRider   SpudRider is offline
 
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Thanks for posting the good tip on the Haynes Service Manual.



http://www.amazon.com/Chinese-Motorc.../dp/1844258718
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Old 08-21-2014, 05:44 PM   #56
cactusmelba   cactusmelba is offline
 
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That's the one!

Got a spark now, mounting the coil on the frame clearly helped!


 
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Old 08-22-2014, 12:06 AM   #57
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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I guess your coil achieved ground by attaching to the frame. Some do, while others have a dedicated ground wire.
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Old 03-21-2015, 12:55 PM   #58
cactusmelba   cactusmelba is offline
 
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Hi All,

After a long cold winter when the only time I ventured into the garage was to get firewood, I've finally started tinkering on the bike again, and I'd like some advice on jets/mixture please.

I've got the bike running, ticking over lumpily, and starting first kick. The problem is that it doesn't seem to be revving more than about 2k revs while riding. (I'm guessing as I haven't got a rev counter any more). It'll rev, and accelerate , then at about 2k revs it'll bog down and hit a total flat spot. At that point if I reach under and tickle the choke it'll rev higher and accelerate more.

Does that mean it's running too lean?

And will that be because I've taken the air box off and put an air filter on instead?

[IMG][/IMG]


 
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Old 03-23-2015, 11:13 AM   #59
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Please save me from reading the thread again. What size engine do you have, and which carb are you using?
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Old 03-23-2015, 03:41 PM   #60
cactusmelba   cactusmelba is offline
 
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Hi Weld,

It's a POR Apache, (GY125) running the stock carb , whatever that is. I've not re-jetted or anything yet, but I HAVE removed the airbox and installed a wire mesh filter that I found. Original exhaust is still on for the moment but I'm taking it in to get a new one made up so I can re-route it and make it shorter.

It starts nicely, first kick (with a little choke) but the problem is that when it's warm, it'll only rev to about 2k then hit a flat spot. If I reach down and tickle the choke while I'm riding then it'll rev much higher and pull off better. (I haven't actually got a choke cable on it at the moment otherwise I'd leave it open a little!)

Thanks for reading mate!


 
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