My new true blue KPX

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by letsride

Take the flimsy POS chain guard off and throw it in the trash, its worthless and useless. Think about it, just what is it gonna "GUARD" if the chain fly's off? Absolutely NOTHING thats what. Mine was aggravating me, I adjusted it a few times but its so damn flimsy it just flopped around still contacting the chain, so its outta here. On another note I just got back from riding my KPX, such a nice bike. Oh and thanks for the sprocket info I'll be ordering one soon, I would like her to be a little less high strung on the road. I may drop down to a 40 tooth on the rear too, and upgrade the chain.

I think chain guards are for preventing oil spray, not preventing a chain sling. I am not sure one could?

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by Thumper

I think chain guards are for preventing oil spray, not preventing a chain sling. I am not sure one could?

Chain guards used to be made of steel. Some were even fully enclosed. Back then, they were more useful for protection against the chain coming off. That being said, I have had over 20 motorcycles that had chain drive, and never had a chain sling off.

[TominMO]

Went out and put another 10 miles on it just for fun. So now it has 100 miles. Either tmw or later today I will pull the new Wix oil filter to see if it gathered up any more metal particles. Now to go work on rearranging my garage.....

[TominMO]

Pulled the oil filter cover and ran a magnet over the Wix filter. It did pull up some metal particles, but not as many as the original filter which had 90 miles on it. The Wix had 10 miles. So it looks like the Wix is capturing more and smaller particles than the stock mesh-screen filter.

Recommend installing a Wix when you do your first oil change, including the 0 miles oil change. There are no doubt other good filters, but the Wix looks like it exclusively has the thickest filter medium, so it probably gets the finest particles. After 100 miles or so, maybe it isn't so important to have such a good filter, since most or all of the break-in particles might have been dislodged by then. But that's just a guess. I'll check the Wix again at 200 miles.

Wix #24944 oil filter: https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-2...ve%2C91&sr=1-1

Edit: Also recommend a magnetic drain plug: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/A...im/refuge08-20

[IdahoRider]

Thanks for all the helpful info. I may be ordering a KPX this week and will start my pre and post build checklist. Did you find the brake fluid and shock oil ok or do you recommend replacing them? How about the spark plug? Did you check the valves yet or are you going to wait? (Sorry if you already covered doing any of this).

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by IdahoRider

Thanks for all the helpful info. I may be ordering a KPX this week and will start my pre and post build checklist. Did you find the brake fluid and shock oil ok or do you recommend replacing them? How about the spark plug? Did you check the valves yet or are you going to wait? (Sorry if you already covered doing any of this).

The brakes work fine. Haven't looked into the suspension, but the forks need either more spring stiffness, thicker fluid or both. I'm just a street rider and don't race, so not heavily focused on suspension stuff.

Everything else I covered. Just read the thread. I'm putting all the most important reference info in post #1. Definitely get it, it's a great bike.

[IdahoRider]

Would a gauge set like this make it easier?

https://www.amazon.com/Rannb-11-8Ft-...s%2C215&sr=8-8

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by IdahoRider

Would a gauge set like this make it easier?

https://www.amazon.com/Rannb-11-8Ft-...s%2C215&sr=8-8

Possibly, but it is more about access to the area itself.

[TimboCycle]

I think that "hole" that you see on the new filter is a bypass valve, there should be a spring and a flap/ball on top of the spring to seal the hole. If the filter gets so dirty it doesn't let enough oil flow through, oil will start to flow through this hole/bypass valve..... better to flow dirty oil than not enough oil.
I've never seen a metal screen filter. I'd like to change that to a paper filter during my break in, but will the oil drain out if I replace the filter?
You don't want really good oil during break in, you need some metal to metal contact to seat good. I'm thinking maybe run it for 10 to 20 miles with the oil that is in it, as most of the break in will be done by then, then change the oil and filter again.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by TimboCycle

I think that "hole" that you see on the new filter is a bypass valve, there should be a spring and a flap/ball on top of the spring to seal the hole. If the filter gets so dirty it doesn't let enough oil flow through, oil will start to flow through this hole/bypass valve..... better to flow dirty oil than not enough oil.
I've never seen a metal screen filter. I'd like to change that to a paper filter during my break in, but will the oil drain out if I replace the filter?
You don't want really good oil during break in, you need some metal to metal contact to seat good. I'm thinking maybe run it for 10 to 20 miles with the oil that is in it, as most of the break in will be done by then, then change the oil and filter again.

Yeah, some bypass valves have the hole in the top of the little tower, and some do not. Now I do not think it matters much. They all have room around the sides of the tower in there to flow the oil. See pic 3 in post #45. When I change out the Wix, I will cut it open to compare to the Chinese one.

The metal screen filter is certainly better than nothing, but pretty sure not as good as even a cheap Chinese pleated paper one. I ran it for 7 miles (dealer to friend's house) then changed the oil with cheap 15w40 dino oil. I need to go in and see how the other "thimble" screen on the bottom of the motor is looking. That will be when I next drain the oil, of course. I want to examine both the thimble screen and the Wix filter at 200 miles, and will install a magnetic drain plug just on general principles.

The oil will not drain out of the sump if you replace the main filter. I was curious about that too, so I stuck a drain pan under the motor and went for it. No oil to speak of. If the bike is on its sidestand, a tiny amount will be in there, but away from the filter cover. A paper towel or two would be good enough.

[TimboCycle]

Originally Posted by TominMO

Yeah, some bypass valves have the hole in the top of the little tower, and some do not. Now I do not think it matters much. They all have room around the sides of the tower in there to flow the oil. See pic 3 in post #45. When I change out the Wix, I will cut it open to compare to the Chinese one.

The metal screen filter is certainly better than nothing, but pretty sure not as good as even a cheap Chinese pleated paper one. I ran it for 7 miles (dealer to friend's house) then changed the oil with cheap 15w40 dino oil. I need to go in and see how the other "thimble" screen on the bottom of the motor is looking. That will be when I next drain the oil, of course. I want to examine both the thimble screen and the Wix filter at 200 miles, and will install a magnetic drain plug just on general principles.

The oil will not drain out of the sump if you replace the main filter. I was curious about that too, so I stuck a drain pan under the motor and went for it. No oil to speak of. If the bike is on its sidestand, a tiny amount will be in there, but away from the filter cover. A paper towel or two would be good enough.

Thanks for the "heads up" about the thimble screen. If there's a screen, it needs to be looked at, cleaned and replaced.

Think I'll put in a paper oil filter in it straight away, run it for 20 miles or so, change the oil and filter and check the thimble screen, run it again for another few hundred miles, change it again.

If you know of a magnetic drain plug link...... that would be great.

Wish it had a skid plate.... plenty of other mods out there but I don't see one for this.

[TominMO]

Drain plug: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/A...im/refuge08-20

The little hole is for competition safety regs. So it can be wired to the frame so it can't come loose.
I never change the washer, whether copper or aluminum. I just use some wheel bearing grease on the threads. Haven't had a drop of leakage in decades doing this.

[kyle]

As long as we're comparing, the kawasaki dealership near me gave me a filter for 9$. Just ask for a 2020 klx230 oil filter. Trying it out for this first oil change.

Originally Posted by TominMO

OK, more oil filter OCD shenanigans--I mean, scientific research.

Did a bunch of research on the webs, and have determined (i.e. best guess) that any 112 form factor oil filter will work. The center hole I was worried about is not an issue, just a design variance.

So I went out and bought what was locally available--an STP and a Wix. Both came with the rubber O-ring. (We will not use the O-ring: it is for some other applications.)

Stats:
Brand........Model #....Made In......Cost......Spot Welds on Bottom
STP...........S6015.......China..........$6.50.... 4
Wix............24944.......Poland........$12...... .6
K&N..........KN-112.....unknown.....$11........4
Chinese....112............China..........$2....... ..2, but larger
generic

On the STP box was cross-reference info with other brands.
K&N..KN-112...........Purolator..ML16815...........Fram..C H6015...........Champ..P7013

Notes:
From the pics I have seen, the STP, Purolator and Fram all look the same.
The Wix stands out with thicker paper and a heavier-duty rubber grommet.
The bottom spot welds let me know that the K&N and the generic Chinese one (same product, many names) are not the same item. The Chinese one does seem solidly built.

Pic 1 shows the Chinese, STP and Wix filters.
Pic 2 shows the bottom welds.
Pic 3 shows the Chinese filter cut open. They all have the same design inside.

I suspect any of these filters does a better job than the stock reuseable one. I am going to try the Wix.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by kyle

As long as we're comparing, the kawasaki dealership near me gave me a filter for 9$. Just ask for a 2020 klx230 oil filter. Trying it out for this first oil change.

Ask the parts guy who makes it. Would be interesting to know. Can you post up a pic of the bottom, so we can see the spot welds for the bypass? That might give us a clue as to the manufacturer.

[kyle]

Originally Posted by TominMO

Ask the parts guy who makes it. Would be interesting to know. Can you post up a pic of the bottom, so we can see the spot welds for the bypass? That might give us a clue as to the manufacturer.

Well.. it's on the bike. But I'll pick up another in the next few days just to have on hand as a spare. Can't find any stock photos of the bottom of it: