What is the top speed on your China Bike?

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by lineman55

My Benelli does 64mph stock. I did this yesterday. On 12" wheels, this is fast. Mine has fuel injection so aside from sprockets, there isn't too much to do with it. I know from my other bike, the computer is set to run stock, you change exhaust, intake, anything, it's not going to like it and you risk running lean.

which benelli do you have? not the Grom Killer T135? Or is it? I really might've gone with the T135 IF I had the extra cash when I ordered the Vader....

AND SOMETIMES I think why didn't I either save a little extra and/or just use the $1200 on an older used Big 4 Bike, not too fast, but either something I could grow into as far as the performance or I even setup a meeting to see a Kawa Eliminator--I think it was also a 125cc or 250cc tops and looked like a "Harley" style cruiser chrome in the adds--the guy only wanted $1300 in his Craigslist add...

BUT OTHER TIMES I am fairly happy with my purchase, I got my bike new with ZERO damage from shipping, I know the Entire history, so I hpefully won't have a "surprise" clutch job or tires that wear out inside the first season and couple thousand miles or whatever---Although, like just about everyone who ever ordered a clone bike, I do want new better tires, for now I am happy to wear the stock ones down as I finish the break in and do mods...WHICH brings me to my last point is I am very happy with this bike as far as I got it for being new, cheap, looks decent (though small) AND I got it to do mods mods mods!! Never ending mods to give me tinkering time in addition to ride time--its like therapy to me...I know the stock engine can go 5,000 to 20,000 miles without any rebuilding or clutch jobs as long as the rider knows how to shift ok...and whenever I get bored with the small engine then it's time for a $100 cylinder and piston BBK or a $350 150cc Lifan style swap, or the Holy Grail of Bolt On Swaps in the $650 ZS190cc swap AND if I'm feeling extra ambitious and a bit crazy then I Could but probably never would go with the difficult to swap in 300cc I think its a Honda engine a few people have done Youtube videos on. Its just an incredible bike for bolt on mods all over the entire bike ranging from super cheap to expensive-cheap...Might not be the best performance bike, but its lightweight so easy to manuever and puts a smile on my face with how it rides and the price and the mods so far

I was on vacation, I got back a couple weeks ago but it was raining the first week a lot. So this week I been busy but been riding more--Just got a VM22 Mikuni Clone carb with air filter, gaskets and new intake manifold, gonna throw on that carb and delete some of the vaccum leaks waiting to happen emissions stuff, plus got the must have fuel shut off switch with that, got gas and air lines to replace the stock that I know for sure will last most or all the bike's life--(although I AM actually really impressed with the quality of this bike because nothing has broken, even after taking apart panels multiple times they all still work and I have used ZERO Loctite and nothing has fallen off or come loose in the slightest,) Also I got the 17T front sprocket. I will throw all that on in the next day or within a week for sure, maybe post a couple pics.

After the new mods I will post a NEW TOP SPEED--looking forward to that 4 Sure!!! My current top speed --well I have only pushed the bike to 47 indicated and 45 GPS verified at close to 7,000 RPM with my carb not tuned and maybe the carb and clutch being tuned worse than factory possibly and from what I have seen others do with just the 17t sprocket and clone or Genuine Mikuni Carbs I think I can get it into the mid 50s maybe 55MPH at about 7000RPM even at my 200+lbs weight--I have seen one guy with these mods, plus freer flow exhaust and genuine Mikuni Carb going to an indicated 40+ MPH at like only 3000rpm to 4000RPm from what I could see in his Youtue vids he was hitting 40+MPH and his Tachometer with the RPMs wasn't really taking the right turn and turning the corner on the gauge at an indicated 40MPH--not sure how accurate his speedometer and RPM meter is from the factory plus with his mods...But if I can increase my top speed 5mph or 10mph and drop my RPM by 500 to 1000rpm or more versus factory then I am ok with spending the $60 for the carb with new intake and air filter included, fuel shut off, and jets kit!--and if I can achieve at least the extra 5mph or definitley the extra 10MPH with the mods and tuning at the same 7000 max RPM that I like cruising at then I feel good keeping this engine around for at least the rest of this year and maybe for years to come!! Heck That would even be really awesome because I could then throw on the Big bore kit and lower my rear sprocket teeth count to get another 5- 15+MPH on my top speed and really have a modded bike with still the core of the engine being stock!

[sirmaxwell]

I only had time to put on my 17 tooth front sprocket today, not the VM22 Clone carb also, because I was busy and had the front and rear fenders/chain guard and belly cowl to install. But I guess it's cool adding just One performance part at a time to see the effect of one part instead of throwing 2 or more and guessing which part changed what and how much.

Anyhow, I didn't do a full top speed run, maybe cuz Im chicken a little LOL but also the new sprocket install made me take off the chain and re-adjust the chain tension and I wanted to ride a few miles first to see if I did everything right and let the chain maybe stretch/ let the adjustments settle a little first.

I was very impressed by how just the 17T front sprocket gave me and for only like $8 on Amazon delivered!! It makes 1st gear usable instead of being a gear you skip or use only to get out of it asap--Now 1st gets up to like the high teens without doing a real high rpm shift--which is is the same speed I was shifting from 2nd to 3rd with the stock 14T sprocket. With the 17T I shift from 1st to 2nd gear at 17+MPH, 2nd to 3rd usually around 25MPH maybe 30 MPH max is doable, and 3rd to 4th before 40MPH usually the mid 30's if Im not revving high--but again I can probably easily shift from 3rd to 4th at or above 40MPH now if I push the RPMS I shift at to 6 or 7k+... I was cruising in 4th doing 45MPH at only 5000RPM with my 200+lbs fat ass and hit a high of almost 50 MPH at maybe 6000 RPM but not sure of the RPM and had to slow down cuz I ran out of road!!LOL--

AS a side note it is a little harder to handle/brake with the 17T sprocket when you get going fast becuse I thnk it gives you more momentum and your RPMS are lower at the same speeds than with stock 14T--SO with the stock 14T if you are cruising downhill at 40MPH You can just pull the front brakes for a second as you kill the throttle, then downshift and the engine braking is more effective with the 14T sprocket at the same speed since the RPMS are higher and therefore you can loose more RPM faster thru engine braking--Or I'm wrong and that's just very much how it felt haha--SO highly reccomended as best/cheapest performance mod--get the 17T first for the $8 if you want extra top speed and dont stunt and dont have very steep hills everywhere (although it still does ok on hills, just takes longer to hit the same speed uphill)..then get the carb next and tune it to try and regain acceleration a litte for the best of both worlds!

Im guessing with just this 17T sprocket I can probably hit 60MPH with enough road to speed up and stop safely without too much traffic preferably--and I am confident of 60MPH once I put on the VM22 Carb

I was also thinking of returning the VM22 Mikuni clone I got (but havent installed yet) AND thinking of ordering the PZ22 instead since I understand it is the same as our stock pz20, can even use the same slide/needle/top of the carb and had bulit in fuel shut off and adds some performance. It just looks wayyy easier and they have good ones for just under $20...shout out your thoughts on the PZ22 and other carbs or other speed adding mods if y'all have any to share for us all!!! As Always, Have fun riding and ride safe!! Peace!!!

Im thinking

[sirmaxwell]

I hit a GPS verified 49MPH today on a Top Speed RUn on my Vader with just the 17 tooth front sprocket Mod Before either the clutch slipped or I lost power because I accidentally left the choke on (oops!) The bike felt like it had more in it --I was gradually getting it past 40 and held it near WOT then when it topped out I twisted it the last 1/8 to 1/4 to WOT and it started pulling faster and was still speeding up when it slipped! :( I will be trying to see if I can hit 55MPH with favorable winds on a flat without doing any carb change/tuning/jets or any other mods BUT I have been frequently having the power loss problem, not every time, but often when I quickly accelerate to 40+MPH or when i gradually push it up past 45MPH--not sure if its clutch needs adjustment (i have adjusted it a lot from factory, not sure I did it right because this is the first bike clutch and first time I ever done one) or the fact that I keep leaving choke on. ANyone have ideas as to why I have power loss at high speeds?

[scoot newb]

What RPM are you at when this happens? If you use the same acceleration technique one gear at a time and in the same throttle position does it lose power?
Maybe I misunderstood what you said about leaving the choke on but that shouldn't cause the clutch to slip.

So far it sounds like a problem with the air fuel mix where the jet, needle position and or the air/fuel screw needs adjusting.

[scoot newb]

On mine, before the carb was jetted / adjusted properly, if I went WOT, at 6k RPM it would start to cut out. But I could go past 6k RPM without any problems if I was below WOT. Changing out the main jet fixed that right up.

I am not sure if the carb on yours can be adjusted or not. Maybe there are rivets instead of bolts preventing you from getting to the jets and the air fuel screw maybe capped. That is one of the main reasons to replace the stock carb. I know it is new and you want to break it in but you can still do it with a properly adjusted carb. In fact, it's better. You don't want to be running lean. Have you done a plug chop?

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by scoot newb

What RPM are you at when this happens? If you use the same acceleration technique one gear at a time and in the same throttle position does it lose power?
Maybe I misunderstood what you said about leaving the choke on but that shouldn't cause the clutch to slip.

So far it sounds like a problem with the air fuel mix where the jet, needle position and or the air/fuel screw needs adjusting.

Yeah see Im not sure what it is causing the issue. Im leaning towards its a carb a carb issue--AND I still have an all stock PZ20 or whatever came on it. Alls I know is sometimes it would all of a sudden lose power at almost 50MPH & near or at WOT as it was still climbing in speed, I think every time it was I would be on a flat doing 35-40, then hit a hill and maybe hold 35mph but pushing the throttle pretty good, then I would maybe let off the throttle just before the crest of the hill just a bit and finally after cresting the hill onto a flat I would crack the throttle pretty much instantly or fast to WOT and gain speed to 47 to 49 MPH and thats whe the power loss occured--AND every time it happened it startled me a little so I would usually get off the throttle, downshift and it would be running fine. I can only guess carb OR maybe since Im pretty big to be riding this at 205lbs maybe Im putting too much load on the por clutch lol... but I cant tell if it was the clutch slipping or a carb because it really only happened twice maybe 3 times very briefly

I do think these bikes are best for people 150lbs and under...BUT on a fairly flat part of a 20 min ride I just took I easily hit an indicated 49MPH on my speedo--which ended up being 48.8MPH on my GPS. I bet I coulda gone faster because I was only at WOT on a true flat or slight downhill for a few seconds at a time. Most of the time I was holding throttle at like 3/4 hitting 45-47MPH. I bet I could maybe hit 55+MPH. Maybe a little faster with a tuned or new carb. Probably I could hit 60mph like my friends if I weighed 150 or less like them

Thanks for the tips ScootNewb. I guess I will look to the carb either jetting the stock or putting on the VM22 clone I have and tuning that. I have hesitated hooking up the VM22 clone because it is different from stock and therefor not the easiest bolt on part. I am actually considering sending back the VM22 to Amazon and going with a PZ22 which most of the PZ22 also have dual inputs for fuel tanks like if I wanted to throw on a 5 gallon tank on the luggage rack if I am ever crazy enough to go on a long road trip on the Vader ! I have seen Venom do a Youtube video about switching out the stock PZ20 for a PZ22--I think Venom gets the stock bikes with the PZ20 and swaps in the Pz22 which requires zero mods if you get one with the built in fuel shut off and everything the same. I think the new carb and changing logos, maybe the sprocket is all Venom changes and charges hundreds extra

[scoot newb]

Yeah, it was kind of a hassle installing the VM22 at first. I am new to wrenching too. But I am glad I took a day to do it. I can now swap all that stuff out in a just a few minutes.

I got tired of trying to make the Hellcat perform well. I got a new motor for it. It is a big one. :-)

[sirmaxwell]

[QUOTE=scoot newb;310246]Yeah, it was kind of a hassle installing the VM22 at first. I am new to wrenching too. But I am glad I took a day to do it. I can now swap all that stuff out in a just a few minutes.

I got tired of trying to make the Hellcat perform well. I got a new motor for it. It is a big one. :-)

Sweet. Are you planning on using the VM22 on the ZS190cc? I eventually want the 190 but not spending money on it quite yet so I haven't started looking into what is needed.

Make sure to post a new top speed after you get the new engine broken in a little!

[scoot newb]

The VM 22 is too small for the 190. I will prolly get a fuel injection kit for it if the PE 28 clone that comes with the kit doesn't work out.

The 190 kits come with everything cept stronger motor mount bolts. Those are only a couple bucks.

[scoot newb]

I forgot to mention there a couple of good Facebook groups. Clone Army, ZS190 Swap Page, and ZS190 Swap Shop. Clone Army is very active. I didn't use facebook but created an account just to access those groups. You can make up whatever name.

The zs190 kit from pitster pro comes with everything you need, and things you won't need (wiring harness etc etc). On our clones it is literally 2 bolts and 6 wires. Of course adjusting everything - clutch, throttle cable and tuning the carb will probably take longer than putting in the motor and connecting the wires.

[PhildoScaggins]

Originally Posted by scoot newb

Nice! I still havent finished setting mine up yet. Unfortunately I need to get some pins and a crimper to do so. My six wires are in one of those plastic clips on my bike. Going to take the clip from my old motor and try to find some of those pins somewhere. The carb is a super tight fit, might want to get a spinner. I need a new filter already because it tore when installing it :/

[scoot newb]

Mine is still in the box. The pic was just to show the simplicity of the wires.

[ChopperCharles]

Those crimp connections are going to give you nothing but trouble in a few years. I'd put a MOLEX in there.

Charles.

[scoot newb]

Originally Posted by ChopperCharles

Those crimp connections are going to give you nothing but trouble in a few years. I'd put a MOLEX in there.

Charles.

I was going to use these and the connector from the original motor so I can clip it in and out if needed.

These things are great if you don't want to solder. Just a heat gun and you're good to go.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074HZHD9Q/

[ChopperCharles]

Also a terrible idea. If you want a high quality strong splice and don't want to solder or buy the correct connectors and crimping tool, the only thing reliable and suitable for motorcycle use are Posi-lock connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-Lock-Con...dp/B00HTA8O9S/

I use those for my stator connectors on my vintage bikes. Almost universally the OEM connectors get brittle or melt, they're just not rated for the amp output and getting a little dirty just exacerbates the problem. These Posi Lock connectors have been reliable for years, and the wire itself will break before the splice comes undone.

Charles.