X-Pro Paladin 300 Resource Guide

[bigdano711]

Nice. A carbed version for the price of a Hawk? NOW WE'RE TALKIN'!

[Mumen Rider]

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805844995910.html?

These axle spacers fit.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805629522561.html?
This caliper and bracket fit, copy of a Brembo rear caliper(KTM 54813080101, 26mm piston). Can use Brembo pads.



https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805670029956.html?
These pads fit the rear caliper linked above. Front pads fit KTM 59013015144 28mm front caliper.


https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805906043314.html?
This guard fits the Paladin rear axle, use the caliper linked above or a Brembo unit. The OE caliper will not fit.





The black aftermarket Chinese rotor guard interferes with the OE rotor, you will have to file or grind 0.2mm of material off where it hits OR use a rotor that isn't wavy.









Use KTM 59013015144 for a front caliper if you want dual 28mm pistons or buy a clone off of eBay/Aliexpress. Larger pistons than OE caliper.


Use KTM 54813080101 for a rear caliper(or clone), you will need the axle carrier. OE caliper carrier DOES NOT fit this caliper.




OE Paladin rear caliper is like a mix of all the wrong parts, nothing interchanges with KTM or KTM clone parts and accessories. I don't really understand why they went with it. You will have to go through Xpro for replacement parts.





To sum it up, Chinese KTM clone calipers are a great budget alternative to the real thing unless you want that logo. There are other KTM front calipers that will fit but use smaller pistons, why would you want to do that?


https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801157270987.html
Fits OE air filter


https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806790733909.html
Engine gasket set, comes labeled as KLX300 on the package.


https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807520578891.html
If you want to throw yourself over the bars.





I have a slipper clutch on order, I have seen people confirm that it fits the KLX and the Voge. More on that in the future.


KTM rear brake pedal tips WILL NOT fit, the angle is off.

[Thumper]

I removed the tank and pulled the fuel pump (posted elsewhere), but I wanted to check the valve adjustment and put a new spark plug in there.

I had a hard time extracting the spark plug from the recess once I loosened it. My spark plug socket couldn't hold onto it, so I went ahead and removed the valve cover (4x 5mm allen bolts). You have to remove the engine mounting bracket to get the valve cover out, but it is easy-just remove those three bolts.

The cam sprockets are on the right, so I brought the valve cover out on the right side. Seemed it would be easier. There is no TDC or timing mark (T or F) on the harmonic balancer (rotor), but you need to expose the 17mm nut that holds it on to rotate the engine to get the lobes in the right place for checking the gap between the cam lobe and cam follower.

Valve adjustment involves replacing the shims (4-one for each valve) as needed after measuring the gap. There are marks on the cam sprockets that you line up level with the top edge of the head (flat) and then check those two valves. So, here I lined up the intake cam sprocket:



The cam lobe is in position for checking the gap.



You write these values down (left intake valve gap, right intake valve gap), do the same for the exhaust cam lobe gaps, left and right, then you actually have to remove the cam shaft cradle (8 bolts) if you need to adjust them! These should be pretty stable and if you are within the tolerance range, no need to change any shims.

Here is what it looks like on the Exhaust can sprocket. The cam lobe is obscured by the centrifugal advancemechanism on the left end of the exhaust cam, but you can easily get the feeler gauge under the cam lobes to get a reading.



Here is what I found:

Exhaust shim/cam clearance at ~40 miles (0.15mm to 0.25mm range):
Both right and left
0.008” (0.229 mm) fits snug (left maybe slightly tighter)

intake shim/cam clearance at ~40 miles (0.1mm to 0.2mm range):
right
0.005” (0.127 mm) clearance
Left
0.006” (0.152 mm) clearance

So my Exhaust valves are a little on the broad side, but within tolerance, and new valves can set in and the gaps can shrink as they wear in, so this is OK. Intake valves are also well within the acceptable range.

Here is a link to a video where I got the gap tolerance range



Here is the is the spark plug. It was obviously too sooty, so I am wondering if the temperature sensor is not working. There is also an altitude sensor (atmospheric pressure?). That sensor could be off or failing. I need to do some more research on this EFI system. That crapping out might be too much gas, especially at low rpm (won't idle).



It was a Torch B8RC. I replaced it with a NGK CR8E.

[onthefly]

Great write up on the valves. Thanks! Hopefully that plug improves the idling/misfiring situation. I'll probably change mine out soon as well. I'll post what it looks like when I remove it. Mine hasn't stalled lately; however, it does hesitate momentarily here and there if I increase throttle quickly.

[Mumen Rider]

Pictures of the older and newer KLX300 exhaust gaskets, use the older one for the Paladin 300.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Mumen Rider

https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...70969872.html?


It looks like the wholesale price is $1700-1900USD. Real bummer they won't sell that header pipe in the US because it doesn't have a cat.

Absent lighting. I really appreciate being able to plate the bike for dual sport use.

Maybe the pipe can be had thru Aliexpress/Alibaba. The resonator may help with a little more torque/hp if we can also figure out how to flash new EFI data.

I wrapped my cat because it gets so hot, but will trap more heat. The muffler will probably get hotter now.

[Thumper]

I will get the original pump back on the tank (got some Permatex Motoseal gasoline resistant RTV) and I got a couple of gallons of ethanol free premium today.

When I pulled off the headpipe for wrapping, I removed and inspected the Oxygen sensor. It was really sooty, just like the spark plug was.

So I think my crapping out and stalling is because it is running way too rich, like even more than cold start rich

What could cause this? My fuel pump was making the typical whining sound when I turn on the key, then halting (presumably when pressured up). I think the pump is OK. Also, it started fine when cold.

Fact: It ran great for nearly 40 miles including a nice romp in the woods.

Then it started this rich running behavior. I could get it to start by twisting up ~1/3 throttle (to get enough air?), but it blew detectable white smoke when it started, burning off excess gas
And stalled unless teased up to higher rpm. Just won't idle.

Which sensor could be causing this? Could it be the EFI control unit?

I flushed out the injector, which makes a nice on/off click when powered. I think the injector is OK too.

[Thumper]

Here is the Paladin after injector flush, and nothing done to the fuel pump besides removal/reinstall. Fuel line flush as well.

Fresh ~gallon of ethanol free premium, and cold start from dry tank...I have no idea if it will keep running this well after it gets up to running temp. Performed flawlessly in this misty almost raining condition, but I didn't get up to running temp. We will see.

Maybe the injector was sticking open.

[onthefly]

Glad you are back up and running! Did you end up putting the muffler tip back on?

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by onthefly

Glad you are back up and running! Did you end up putting the muffler tip back on?

Yeah I did, but mostly out of paranoia! Seems pretty minor. I will take it off again when I get a Fisch moto USFS approved spark arrestor.

[Mumen Rider]

320mm brake rotor, the speedometer drive sensor fit the aftermarket disc with some JB weld. I had to use a KKE caliper relocation bracket, the one with the rotor interfered with the fork mount by about 5mm on the lower bolt hole. The speedometer sensor is zip-tied in place until I make a proper mount but functions as it should.



The OE brake rotor is thin compared to the aftermarket rotor, the lever feel has improved with a thicker rotor. The difference between the two is about 0.5mm which is sizeable for a rotor, if you run aggressive brake pads your OE rotor is going to wear out sooner.

[Thumper]

Nice! It is awesome to see these upgrades.

Personally, my riding style won't wear out the OEM equipment for a couple of years if I have time! But great to know the upgrades are there!