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Old 04-19-2007, 11:58 PM   #46
Jim   Jim is offline
 
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Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
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Hey Ambassador, thanks for the tips, yeah mine came from a shop, the guy knows what he's doing so it should be good anyways, but I already had that off and greased up the speedo cable which was already lubricated, and the unit at the front axle seemed fine, I didn't dissasemble it but I had it apart... Also I've loctite a few bolts (axle, footpegs, anything I've had off) and checked the rest, I also check them regularily... Got the wheel all seated properly now too Thanks too everyone here, and to frostbite for setting this up


 
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Old 04-27-2007, 02:53 AM   #47
IronFist   IronFist is offline
 
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If your bike comes with stickers that are really hard to get off, Ambasador has a pic of my bike with sticker on the gas tank. Would not come off. Use a hair dryer and peel with finger nail. 30 seconds tops. The glue from stickers comes right off with butter. I think wd40 works too.


 
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:19 AM   #48
Jim   Jim is offline
 
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I use dirt grease and wax remover, works great.


 
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:30 AM   #49
AZ200cc   AZ200cc is offline
 
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Location: Show Low Arizona
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OK, I keep reading about moving the needle down in the carb..What exactly will I gain by doing that? More power, Or more top speed?
I live at 7000 ft ASL..Will that matter? And if there is a thread on this already please point me in the rigtht direction..Thanks.

Oh and my labels will not come off, They clearcoated over them
Looks like it's time to sand the bike down
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:21 AM   #50
fatboy250   fatboy250 is offline
 
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Dielectric Grease all connectors

http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...&p=18384#18384
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:55 PM   #51
John_Allen   John_Allen is offline
 
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Air Filter Location

I’m sure this has been asked an answered, but I can’t find it anywhere. I know I need to oil my air filter, but I don’t know where it is. Can someone point me to a thread or better yet a picture, and instructions for this? Sorry, I’m still a big newbie, but learning a lot. (I have a Roketa DB-07)

Thanks for the help.


 
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Old 09-27-2007, 03:42 PM   #52
katoranger   katoranger is offline
 
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Most of the time under the sidecover or seat. Find the carburetor and then look at the attached box opposite of engine. The filter is in there.

Allen
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Old 09-27-2007, 10:16 PM   #53
John_Allen   John_Allen is offline
 
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katoranger

thanks, found it and done!

John


 
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:23 PM   #54
Tinker   Tinker is offline
 
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Working out the bugs

I have been fixing little things on my 07 Lifan GY-5, most recently it was the front disk brake pads. The front pads would drag on the rotor causing vibration and unpleasant noise. When I would yank hard on the front brake it would stop for a while. So I used anti squeal compound (more or less glue) on the back of the pad to stick it to the brake piston. I also replaced the stock caliper bolts with new ones from the hardware store. The oem bolts were very crappy and I am surprized that these bolts did not strip the aluminium threads tapped in the caliper. Brake works great now, motor is breaking in nice and I am getting 100 mpg!

Just added a 2nd bike to the fleet a Honda 2001 xr650l $525 salvage title flood bike. Runs good after flushing out motor, carb may need rebuild.


 
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Old 03-09-2008, 09:56 PM   #55
walkingdude   walkingdude is offline
 
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Location: Denver
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Turn signal bulbs

I found the rear turn signals on my LF200gy-5 almost invisible during daylight hours and replaced the smallish bulbs with standard 1156 Sylvania long life bulbs, both front and back. Made a huge difference for $1.75 per bulb.


 
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Old 04-03-2008, 01:20 AM   #56
Gimpdiggity   Gimpdiggity is offline
 
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I think a proper break-in procedure should be added to the list.

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

They have a good one.

I think one of the problems that many people have with these bikes is that they just start riding them after they get them. They don't have any concern for what is necessary to get the engine running at it's best.

A correct break-in could help solve many of the issues these bikes have.


 
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:54 AM   #57
dieselhead   dieselhead is offline
 
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Location: Catskill Mnts NY
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BEFORE you ride, check and REMOVE exess brake fluid from your disk brake resivoirs!! Both my GY5 and ATV were completely filled. After a few minutes riding, the petal "play" disappeared and I could smell the disk cooking!! :oops: You have to have air space in the resivoir.


 
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:00 PM   #58
HiBirdRed   HiBirdRed is offline
 
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Initial Assembly Checklist

Regarding the Initial Checklist - I've seen a couple threads that mention doing a good initial lube job on the clutch cable. Anyone concur or have additional comment?

I'm new to the Forum and am about to receive my 1st bike - 200cc Hi-Bird DS. I've appreciated all the helpful info and look forward to contributing. My only other enduro frame of reference is an 85 Honda XL 250 - had it in High School...GREAT bike, but for the $$ I'm excited to see what China will do to the motorcycle industry in the US - seems to be gaining momentum.

Cheers!


 
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:16 PM   #59
IronFist   IronFist is offline
 
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Regarding the Initial Checklist - I've seen a couple threads that mention doing a good initial lube job on the clutch cable. Anyone concur or have additional comment?

I concur


 
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:21 PM   #60
Death85e   Death85e is offline
 
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I agree !!! Without hesitation you should lube all of the cables as part of the initial setup/prep.
I did this for my wifes bike but did not do it for mine and was deffinately surprised at the difference it made. Her cables including the clutch were much smoother and easier to pull than mine.
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