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Old 12-18-2022, 09:22 AM   #46
Thumper   Thumper is offline
 
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The position of the new mounting holes will determine the amount of lowering. But I am having a difficult time deciding exactly what the calculation is:
The lower mount is only about 3.5 inches behind the swingarm pivot. The distance to the rear axel from pivot is ~22".

But it isn't a simple fixed mounting position to the shock. The mount articulates slightly due to the triangular mounting bracket with dogbone linkage. The lowering will be enhanced by the effect of that linkage (either more, or less than a simple fixed mounting position.

Most lowering kits involve replacing the doglegs with slightly longer doglegs, which articulate the triangle downward/backward, effectively lengthening the distance between the lower and upper mounting positions.

Well, we will see. I think a full 1" difference in lower mounting position might be a drastic change, so I will go less than 1". But I want the lower shock mount to be secure and strong, so I don't want the new holes too close to the OEM holes. 3/4" might be about as close as I can make the new holes.


 
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Old 12-18-2022, 08:20 PM   #47
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Lowered Templar X

It worked. It is an aluminum shock body, so it was EASY to drill. Make sure you drill straight. 10mm is perfect, works great.

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I made the new holes 1" from the OEM mounting so dropped from 460mm to 435mm effective shock length. Me and my son estimated 4.8" for a full inch if it is linear. But we weren't sure if the linkage would make it less. Well, this bike will be EASY to throw a leg over now!
The kickstand is a bit long now but works on level ground! I'd like to TIGHTEN the preload now. It may need it.

My guess is it is about a ~3" drop. It's good!

And it really worked as planned If you want to do this, but just want a 2.5 inch drop, aim for a ~3/4" distance to the new holes, or maybe just under 3/4".

The chain got tighter, so I moved the rear axel forward a bit. I have more work to do before I put it all back together. I am working on the carb and some wiring rerouting. I think I need to tighten the rear shock preload if I want to keep this height. It will be easy enough to park it with the kickstand in a hole or downhill until I tighten up the rear shock preload. That might make it work better.


FYI, I did this on this 2022 1/2 6speed Temp X, which is also geared up with 39T rear sprocket from the OEM 49T sprocket. It still has the OEM 13T front sprocket. But I think I'll get a 42T or 44T rear sprocket. I just don't drive that fast, stick to two lanes anyway.

This might be a good setup for a supermotard conversion too



Last edited by Thumper; 05-11-2023 at 05:55 PM.
 
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Old 12-22-2022, 10:14 AM   #48
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KKE has this shock for $159 plus shipping if you would like to pick up a spare and give this a try. It is in stock (Los Angeles area). PSM does NOT have it in stock, but they would probably charge the same.
www.kkeracing.com
sales03@kkeracing.com

It is MA40B03
but give them the following info to be certain:
-460mm distance from top to bottom mounting positions (center to center of mounting holes)
-10mm bolts top and bottom (mounting holes)
-22mm wide upper mount bushing
-350lbs/inch spring
-rebound adjustment is at the base of the cylinder on the lower mount
-compression adjustment is on the top of the ballonet

You can take the photos in this thread if they want them (he asked me for pics).

If you have the Templar M, check these measurements against your shock. PSM sez it they are not interchangeable, but they may not really know. You need room for the ballonet which is angled slightly back when mounted.


 
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Old 12-22-2022, 12:41 PM   #49
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I need to lower my grandson’s Xpro Sail 150. It came with a 290mm shock. Couldn’t I just install a shorter shock? My question though. What length shock should I get to lower the bike about 3”?
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Old 12-22-2022, 06:26 PM   #50
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The length seems right. If the shock was still in one piece (spring in place) and that ~18.25 inches is from center to center (mounting holes), that is 463mm.
Questions:
-Are those 10mm bolt holes?
-What is the width of the upper bushing (22mm on the KKE adjustable shock) ?
By width, I mean the length of the bushing, width when mounted. That is the critical measurement.
-What is the width between the two legs of the lower mounting fork? It is 20mm on the KKE shock (to fit when mounted to the linkage triangle).

The spring isn't too wide, no problem there. The upper mount doesn't move significantly and sufficient clearance to mount.

If those dimensions are OK. the ONLY real issue is whether there is room for the ballonet. It is not perpendicular to the upper shock mount, but rather, angles back slightly.

I am ordering a new one, so I can send you this one. But I wouldn't recommend buying it from me, because even if it fits, you should make it a ~5/8" distance to the new mounting hole, not 1 inch. And it isn't worth sending just for fitment test.


 
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Old 12-23-2022, 11:16 AM   #51
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Correction- KKE racing does not have the shock in stock in CA/North America. The shipping quote was $80. But $159 is an expected price for the adjustable shock itself. I think I will wait!

UPDATE:
I looked into alternatives. This KKE adjustable is actually a nice deal. Even with shipping. I may just order one.

UPDATE: OK, this is my 2022 and a 1/2 Templar X thread (please don't overload it with stuff you should put in YOUR thread).
I am NOT buying another shock. I Like the lowering I got with my existing shock. It works GREAT. Increasing the preload by 350-400lbs completely compensated for the lowering. It works great in the dirt, just doesn't have the extreme rear shock travel anymore. But I don't leap 25' jumps anyway



Last edited by Thumper; 01-05-2023 at 10:16 PM.
 
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Old 01-05-2023, 10:08 PM   #52
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Big easy idle adjustment screw

Here is another post in my 2022 and a half Temp X thread. This one is the installation of a big knurled knob idle adjuster.

I posted it elsewhere, and the threads and dimensions were accurate. It is post #5 in this thread:
https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32024


OK, they cost under $3 so I bought a couple of them to keep as a spare. In fact, I bought an red one after that (maybe closer to matching my orange 5 speed)

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Yup, the dimensions and threads were perfect. BUT, I reused the OEM spring which was lighter and wider. I also used a washer that came with the knob.
Oh, I had to start the bike and test it. TORTURE. It is 30 degrees out there. Sigh!

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Last edited by Thumper; 01-06-2023 at 04:37 PM.
 
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Old 01-06-2023, 12:40 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hap View Post
I need to lower my grandson’s Xpro Sail 150. It came with a 290mm shock. Couldn’t I just install a shorter shock? My question though. What length shock should I get to lower the bike about 3”?
I looked at the photos of the Sail 150 at PSM. The lower shock mount seems to be a single grommeted mounting ring, so it doesn't have the long fork to drill new holes for a shorter mounting position.

But the good news is that it is a simple fixed mounting position, so a shorter shock should work.

Check out this 10.25" shock from Amazon ($30). If the mounting posts have compatible sized holes, it should work perfectly. You can dial up to 4 stiffer spring preload settings as well. 30mm shorter

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google this description to find it on Amazon

RUTU 10.25" 260mm Rear Shock, Mono Shock, Universal Pit Bike Shock Replacement for SDG SSR Pitster Lifan 110cc 125cc 140cc 200cc 250cc Pit Dirt Bike 400LBS - Black

How much will this lower the bike? Well, ask a mathematician. I am sure it is a Trigonometry problem since the swingarm makes a circle when it pivots.

*If you disconnect the shock and do manual measurements with the bike on a bike stand, you can estimate the effect of a 30mm change.


 
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Old 01-07-2023, 01:17 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
I looked at the photos of the Sail 150 at PSM. The lower shock mount seems to be a single grommeted mounting ring, so it doesn't have the long fork to drill new holes for a shorter mounting position.

But the good news is that it is a simple fixed mounting position, so a shorter shock should work.

Check out this 10.25" shock from Amazon ($30). If the mounting posts have compatible sized holes, it should work perfectly. You can dial up to 4 stiffer spring preload settings as well. 30mm shorter

Attachment 28306

google this description to find it on Amazon

RUTU 10.25" 260mm Rear Shock, Mono Shock, Universal Pit Bike Shock Replacement for SDG SSR Pitster Lifan 110cc 125cc 140cc 200cc 250cc Pit Dirt Bike 400LBS - Black

How much will this lower the bike? Well, ask a mathematician. I am sure it is a Trigonometry problem since the swingarm makes a circle when it pivots.

*If you disconnect the shock and do manual measurements with the bike on a bike stand, you can estimate the effect of a 30mm change.
Hey Thumper! I ended up getting a 270mm. And it worked perfectly. I haven’t measured it. But I would say it lowered the bike about 2-3 inches. It’s just right for my grandson now. I dropped the forks an inch also. He’s been ripping all over my place since. Thanks man!
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Old 01-17-2023, 06:29 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Imposing Will View Post
Mine would idle high sometimes, as well-and occasionally stall. I didn't ride mine for about 4 days last week, and I pulled it out of the garage. It started, died, and wouldn't start again. I've only run non-eth in it, so I know it didn't clog up with corn syrup. Checked fuel filter and flow, checked for spark-good. New NGK plug for a laugh. Nothing. So I did what all real men do, and pulled the boot...and blasted it with starting fluid. Started, ran out of laughing gas, and died. I could likely figure this carb out, but I don't have the patience right now. I'm in the middle of a street tracker build, so I'm looking for my other bikes to be runners. I ordered a Nibbi PE28 for it, and I'll give it a shot. If that fails, I'll get a real PE28. They're really not expensive, and I know they work. Some of the Chinese carbs are a real crapshoot.
I used to commute on a 2012 CCW Misfit. It was 5 years old with 9k miles when I bought it. Aside from a clogged emission mess once, it was dead reliable. I fixed all of that,and cleaned/rebuilt/rejetted the carb. It ran great. I sold it to a friend of my wife who's my age three years ago (I'm 52 now) who always wanted to learn how to ride. I clean the carb for her at the beginning of every spring, because she doesn't understand that "premium" doesn't mean non-eth. Literally emptied syrup out of it this year. Carb cleaner, compressed air...BOOM! Runs great. Carb looks like absolute cheap trash, but the bike always runs fantastic (when clean!!)
Might buy the bike back just for the carb.
I have observed that it seems to run better with more gas in the tank. More pressure on the fuel filter? I am going to replace it. Hammer, piggy bank, Pow! Deep pockets


 
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Old 02-01-2023, 07:00 PM   #56
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update on idle stability

I did already describe sealing up the "manifold" up against the head with high temp RTV (single port intake plenum ?? )

Anyway, I was wondering about the OEM fuel filter. Is it flowing freely? So I got an inexpensive high flow 1/4" inline filter (under $4 from auto parts store). It is small and was an easy install.

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I also worked on the choke linkage, which was sticky. After assembling it all back together, put the gas tank back on, added a gallon of premium (I use no ethanol high octane during break-in), and started it.

It needed some choke, but settled into a nice idle-elevated with my new easy big knob slide height screw! After a few revs, I dropped the slide a bit and ran it for a minute to warm up the engine (COLD OUT). Then took a ride. Running great and when I returned a few minutes later, I parked it and dropped the idle to ~1500rpm. Steady and stable, no stall!!!

I think a combination of leaky intake manifold seal and slow flow filter might have been causing the unstable idle and stalling. FIXED!


 
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Old 02-04-2023, 12:44 AM   #57
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Hey Thumper, could we see some picks of the bike now that it is lowered? Did you also raise the fork tubes up in the triple clamps? If so, how much? From other pictures I've seen, it doesn't look like they can be raised much before hitting the handlebar.
I've been lurking about gathering info but have yet to place a order for a Templar X. Am concerned about the seat height/swinging my leg over the seat (I'm 5'6" with a 29" inseam).


 
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Old 02-04-2023, 09:05 AM   #58
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeebleWobble View Post
Hey Thumper, could we see some picks of the bike now that it is lowered? Did you also raise the fork tubes up in the triple clamps? If so, how much? From other pictures I've seen, it doesn't look like they can be raised much before hitting the handlebar.
I've been lurking about gathering info but have yet to place a order for a Templar X. Am concerned about the seat height/swinging my leg over the seat (I'm 5'6" with a 29" inseam).
You will need to install handle bar risers to get the extra clearance.
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Old 02-05-2023, 12:55 PM   #59
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lowered

About 3" lower. It sags a couple inches when I sit on it. I did tension the preload on the rear shock to compensate and prevent it from compressing too far now that it is closer to the fender.

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Old 03-05-2023, 12:22 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
I thought I had melted my ground wire so I replaced my wiring harness. It turns out it was a faulty starter (which I fixed), but while I was at it, I got a new set of led sequential turn signals. I just tried the in the back. Maybe I will save the other two for now. Just under $20 from amazon. Sweet!



I also replaced the battery with an 80 CCA bigger battery. It barely fit, but much more power!

Attachment 27696
Cool man missouri huh same here is that a chopper or sprtster? I'm in missouri too let's start a club lol!!


 
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