Minor Paladin Assembly issues

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by onthefly

Have you guys had any further stalling issues at idle? Or figured out what caused that?

No issue. It idles. It settled into a steady idle when I got back from the first ride.

Stalling can happen with EFI under no load once in a while, particularly when you drop the throttle abruptly. Mine stalled once at a stop sign in the first mile of operation. It has not stalled since.

Like most EFI bikes, it doesn't start instantly. All of my carbed bikes started instantly. This bike turns over maybe two revolutions before popping to life. I have started it ~5 times now and this is the standard behavior.

2000 rpm showing is based on the thick blocks that populate the rpm gauge. It is not a needle. Each block represents 500 rpm. 4 blocks are showing at idle, so it is between 1501 and 2000 rpm. My guess of 1900 is wrong (it is "four blocks"). The idle sounds like 1600rpm, maybe 1500, and it is remarkably constant. Here is a video




And you can see the shortened kickstand spring lower mount fixed the loose kickstand.

[Mumen Rider]

Originally Posted by onthefly

Have you guys had any further stalling issues at idle? Or figured out what caused that?

No, it has only happened once to me and it might have been the ECU learning or a hiccup going from open loop to closed loop.

Originally Posted by Thumper

Like most EFI bikes, it doesn't start instantly. All of my carbed bikes started instantly. This bike turns over maybe two revolutions before popping to life. I have started it ~5 times now and this is the standard behavior.

I have the opposite happening, the Paladin fires right up and my carbed bikes turn over for a bit until they catch.

[Thumper]

That video is typical so far on the Paladin. A few revolutions, then it starts. Same experience with my neighbor's KPX. Has to crank a couple of revolutions.

My son's Templar (and my previous carbed bikes) popped to life quicker. Nearly instantly. Gotta tease the choke with constant slight throttle, but QUICK!

[onthefly]

Right on! The bike sounds good btw!

[Thumper]

I have searched but haven't been able to find stickers with the Zuumav logo. I'd like xarious sizes. Zuumav lets their distributors put their logo on them, but it is a Zuumav! Zongshen and Loncin do this too.

[buzz]

Ya im waiting till they get the bugs out them,just like a car you dont want the 1st of a new model.

[onthefly]

It lives! Have to finish a few things tomorrow, but assembly was pretty straightforward. The only frustration came with some of the plastics on the back. One misaligned/ partially blocked bolt hole under the seat. Light work for dremel.


Also, I ended up getting green instead of black
https://youtube.com/shorts/hUMkqAEUm...trET8u2LBThMff

[Mumen Rider]

Originally Posted by Thumper

I also mentioned in a previous post that the head pipe was loose at the exhaust port. I discovered this when I removed the tailpipe section.

In fact, there was obvious evidence that they ran it this way at the factory. See the black blow-by? Also, this is NOT a crush gasket. It is a solid copper washer. So it MUST be flush, straight and tensioned in place well. So the tailpipe has to fit and NOT flex the headpipe!

Attachment 32193

Then I discovered why they couldn't seal up the header.

The distance to the midmount by the footpeg, and especially the two on the rear frame are too far forward, by a lot. In other words, the union by the midpipe mount is too long on both sides (needed to be shortened).

I cut ~1/4" from BOTH ends (the headpipe and the tail pipe section). I use Dremel EZ-lock metal cutting wheels for this, They make clean cutting easy. I filed both ends with a standard flat file to deburr and bevel the headpipe side, used a sanding wheel on the tailpipe side to deburr and smooth it out. This was barely enough. More than 1/4" would have been better, but I did not want to compromse the exhaust seal at that union.

Attachment 32194


Even after this mod, the midpipe mount is lower than the preferred location of the headpipe when properly tensioned (exhaust nuts that hold it on the head). I STILL had to flex the pipe downwards to install the midpipe bolt. NOT good. I can expand the slot on the frame mounted midpipe bolt hole upwards to reduce the tension on the header nuts, and it should seal better, easier. Something to do next time I take it off

I just took my exhaust off and checked, mine was leaking at the header and at the mid pipe also. I used a Kawasaki 11061-0027 exhaust gasket for the KLX300 to seal up the header. 11060-1203 is the "correct" part number but they'll both work just fine, use a dab of RTV to keep it in place while fitting the header back on. I believe the old part number is a wider gasket than the newer one.



I did not have to cut the mid-pipe to get it to fit back on properly. The first thing to go on was the header, tightened the bolts hand tight so it couldn't move and then fitted the muffler and mid-pipe. Unbolting the torx subframe bolt and pushing up on the subframe was enough to get the mid-pipe bolt to line up.



Since the fuel pump doesn't work I can't say for sure if it's leak free now but with my hand around the header and turning it over I didn't feel any air leaks. The mid-pipe got it's own clamp and RTV, the pipe is out of round slightly.

[Thumper]

The engine doesn't stall anymore at all. It also settles into a very smooth idle even before it's up to operating temp.

I can't hear any exhaust leak at the head either. The bike ran flawless on a ride through a local trail/single track, some double track and a few muddy washes. It tracks well through soft mud and slips predictably on muddy sections with ruts. Very stable. And it didn't feel heavy! Plenty powerful right off idle. NICE torque.

This is an excellent bike.

[Thumper]

Under 50 miles, and took the Paladin to mail a couple of letters.

It began exibiting delay of power on during the ride. Then stalling if I didn't keep the rpm up and tease throttle.

Mumen is having fuel pump issues. I think this might be related...

I thought maybe low fuel... made it to a P66 and filled with 93 octane (took 1.6 gallons).

Started fine, but same thing... weird stall fail if I did not tease/twist the throttle. And delay in response to throttle.

Made it hot home at higher rpm teasing throttle. After I got home...Starts and maintains idle but then fails. Is this a low fuel pressure thing (fuel pump)?

EDIT: looks like too much fuel at idle, sooty plug and sooty oxygen sensor

I will make a video tomorrow.

[Mumen Rider]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Made it hot home at higher rpm teasing throttle. After I got home...Starts and maintains idle but then fails.

That's what mine was doing before it died completely.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJ9S2MQ4


This fuel relay will work as a replacement but I doubt you have a bad relay.

[onthefly]

Well crap guys. Hopefully this isn't going to be the tale of the paladin. I went out and rode 30 miles today. I noticed it would have a momentary delay of power every once in a while, when climbing in a lower gear. I wasn't too concerned about it until seeing your post Thumper. I'll keep you guys in the loop on mine.

Mumen, any word on when your replacement pump is going to arrive?

[Mumen Rider]

No update or ETA but I can see a pending order created by PSM for the fuel pump. I think the next thing I see will be a shipping notification from them. I will be sure to document the fuel pump replacement process.

[Thumper]

At least the fuel pump power connection is easy to disconnect and test. If this does turn out to be a bad batch of fuel pumps, I can think of worse EFI problems!

[Thumper]

I guess the 4 valve head pushes lots of heat and more unburnt hydrocarbons to the cat. So I hear it is a calf burner. I am concerned about the orange coolant tubing right behind that heat.

I felt that heat on a couple of rides, so went ahead with a wrap. I cut the roll a little too short (21 feet). An extra foot would have got it to the muffler union. But this will help.