07-03-2019, 03:55 PM | #466 | |
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Installing a rear lowering suspension link, so pretty sure some of this needs to come apart anyway, but thought I'd ask. Thanks! |
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07-03-2019, 04:05 PM | #467 | |
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Volcano, Ca
Posts: 7,112
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Quote:
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"Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350 |
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07-03-2019, 08:59 PM | #469 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Warshington
Posts: 928
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Duckati, take lots of pics with your cell phone of wire plugins, wire routing, coolant hose routing, radiator mounting, etc. It's nice to have a reference pic to figure out if something went on this side or that side of the thinga ma gig. rj
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Live Zong, and Prosper |
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07-12-2019, 09:06 AM | #470 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Hell
Posts: 2,408
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Did Santa stop in yesterday? |
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07-12-2019, 12:44 PM | #471 |
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 85
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Yes indeed. It will be a while before I get it installed, as I am leaving tomorrow on a big RX3 trip.
Yesterday I got my Benelli Dyno tuned, and I asked the tuner about the 300cc kit in the RX3. He said that the injectors would likely be plenty adequate, which is good news. I told him of reports that others have made about the stock ECU adapting, and he made a face and said "well, yeah, it'll run, but you won't get any more power up top, it'll be running lean at high RPMs.". Which makes sense, and others here have reported that the 283 kit boosts mid-range but did nothing for the top end. So then we talked tuning devices, because - there aren't any. And he had just worked magic on my Benelli, adjusting the timing and fuel to find almost a full HP more than the camshaft designer predicted (13.87 vs. 13.00 predicted). The Benelli uses a Delphi MT05.2 ECU, and the Power Commander plugs in through one connector, no splicing or additional wiring, and it has an integrated ignition timing module all in one. I thought that the RX3 used the same ECU, so I asked DynoJet if the Benelli PC would work on the RX3. They said it sounded like it would. Later I realized the RX3 used the MT05, not the MT05.2. same family, same connector, don't know exactly what the difference is. DynoJet won't guarantee that it will work, of course, as they haven't tested it. I asked the tuner what he thought, and we decided to just plug it in and see if the bike starts. So I did, and it did. So when I get back, the plan is to install the 298 kit, get a baseline run, and then put the Benelli's Power Commander on and dyno tune it. That's a few weeks away though. In the meantime, if anyone knows what the difference is between an MT05 and an MT05.2, please share. Or, if you know of a bike that uses the MT05 and has a Power Commander V available for it, that would be excellent to know about. |
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07-13-2019, 05:29 AM | #472 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Hell
Posts: 2,408
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Quote:
Brigs and Stratton used it too on some mowers Maybe MT 05.2 is a bit newer and it’s more common? AJP PR5 has a EJK tuner but think it’s the newer ecu |
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07-25-2019, 12:41 AM | #473 |
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 85
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Found the brand name of the 298cc kit:
http://motorcube.cn/ http://www.motorcube.cn/index.php?tp...=17&sid=650131 The packaging is not on par with what has been shown for the 283, but that was to be expected. Overall, it looks reasonably nice, but installation will have to wait until I figure out how to get the piston out of the cylinder. The piston is wrapped in bubble wrap and stuck in the cylinder, and it seems none too eager to be removed from the cylinder, and I am loathe to force it. EDIT: after soaking overnight in Ballistol, the penetrating oil got through and did its job, and I was able to extract the piston from the cylinder. Now I just have to find time to strip the bike down and install the new toys. Last edited by Gaijin; 07-25-2019 at 03:41 PM. |
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07-26-2019, 02:14 AM | #474 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Hell
Posts: 2,408
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Quote:
Had to package another way to get it to fit the $200 total price with postage which looks like half the price on the website - sorry I was in a bind |
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07-26-2019, 02:47 PM | #475 |
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 85
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No problem, it all worked out.
However, I am currently stuck. Spud put up an excellent tutorial on disassembling the top end, pictures and everything, but it starts off with little gems like "remove engine from frame." I know some on here have said they've been able to do the job without removing the engine. I've gone about as far as I can go without some assistance. I've got the bodywork, radiators, and front part of the frame all off, and I've pulled every engine mount I can find (two from the front part of the frame, one from the cylinder head, and one from the back near the swingarm). And loosened the swingarm bolt. The engine is still firmly in place, showing no hint of wanting to move. Any ideas what I'm missing? Also -- on the intake -- that's the last area where the engine is connected to anything else, that I can see. There are two 8mm bolts that look like they hold the intake to the cylinder, but trying to remove them is impossible, they're just rounding the edges with an open-end wrench and it's not possible to get a socket wrench on there; the socket will go on but it's parallel to the intake tube and no wrench will fit. I tried removing the hose clamp under the assumption that I could just slide that hose off when the engine starts rotating forward, and thus the rest of the intake could stay attached. Does that sound reasonable? Thanks for any assistance that can be offered. If there are any tutuorials on removing the engine or at least removing the mounts that will then let you work on the top end, I missed them. |
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07-26-2019, 04:25 PM | #476 |
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portsmouth, Virginia, USA
Posts: 632
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When I dropped the engine on my RX3 I left the intake manifold in place. Disconnect the rubber boot between the throttle body and the air box, then you have solved that problem. I have a NC250 engine stand but shipping would be a PITA. If you want the stand let me know and we can talk about the shipping.
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07-26-2019, 04:37 PM | #477 |
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 85
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Thanks! Glad to hear the manifold situation can be solved by the rubber boot, as that was my plan and I've already loosened the boot's clamp in prep for lowering the engine.
I've got the engine supported on a lift, and from what I can tell the idea is to remove all the engine mount bolts and leave the swingarm bolt installed, and the engine is then supposed to be able to rotate forward far enough to be able to get the head and cylinder off. I have it at about that point, disassembly-wise, as far as I can tell. But the engine seems not interested at all in moving in any way. Is it just extraordinarily tight in there and needs some whacks with a mallet? Or is my approach wrong? Thanks for any insight! |
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07-26-2019, 07:07 PM | #478 |
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 85
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After some more finagling, I got the engine to slide forward and down a little bit. But it's not much. Can those of you who've done this before, verify for me if this is what you were working with?
In this picture, you can see where the engine mount on the cylinder head was. I removed the triangular support bracket. The engine is supported now only through the swingarm bolt. It rotated a little bit, it moved maybe 1/2" forward, 1/2" down. The question is: is this enough to start pulling the head off? It seems pretty tight. Thanks for any assistance you can offer! |
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07-26-2019, 08:06 PM | #479 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Hell
Posts: 2,408
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Quote:
I did it near everyone did it. the room you have is JUST enough JUST. Wriggle the top cap ff n rest is easy enough. Check in off road enduro section as Chonda had more pics and I posted some as well. |
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07-26-2019, 08:19 PM | #480 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Hell
Posts: 2,408
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