What motor oil is best?

[jayg]

I am using Shell Rotella T W30 for my breakin and then I would like to switch to Mobile 1 Syn 4T Racing.

[katoranger]

Originally Posted by jayg

I am using Shell Rotella T W30 for my breakin and then I would like to switch to Mobile 1 Syn 4T Racing.

That will work. I would go at least 500 miles before switching though.

Allen

Strangely enough, the oil that lasts the longest in my bike and maintains the smoothest shifting is valvoline vr1 racing oil. it does not say energy conserving but the website says there are friction modifiers. In any case, this stuff lasts longer than the synthetic I was using.

no clutch issues either.

[jayg]

Originally Posted by jayg

I am using Shell Rotella T W30 for my breakin and then I would like to switch to Mobile 1 Syn 4T Racing.

I have 558 km and I did my third oil change today. I went from the Rotilla T 30 weight to the Rotilla 15-40 weight. I did notice that the bike does shift a little smother.

Also my filter was free of any metal shavings.

[Bofusboy]

I replaced the original motor oil in my Roketta with 5w30 Royal Purple (full synthetic), is that going to ruin the break-in for my motor? Also, I've noticed a problem when going from 2nd back down to 1st, seems to get stuck in N and I have to let the clutch out a little, let the gears spin a little, then it will shift to first. could this be the oil?

Bofus that stuff will probably make your clutch act up. You'd be better off saving some cash and switching to some other oil.

[Bofusboy]

i think i'll probably keep the royal purple in there till i hit 50-75 miles then change it again as some people recommend. I'll prolly switch to 15w40, but whats the recommendation on brand and type (synth or not?). I don't want to cause any long term damage to the bike (obviously)

[katoranger]

I would use dino oil for the first few hundred miles at least. The royal purple is okay, but expensive for a china bike.

Any brand will do, just change it frequently .

Allen

[VinceDrake]

Just to echo what Sir KatoRanger said, yup Lots and Lots of changes.

Frankly, it doesn't matter whether the oil is Mobil, or Texaco, White Star or "GUANDAN PROVINCE PEOPLE'S OIL FACILITY" Brand. Even the finest synth. can't negate metal and aluminum paticles. Carbons, grunge, acids, yes. Steel Shards, no.

Even clean cheapest of cheap crap is 100% better than dirty synthetic, No matter how awesomely expensive it was.

--Vince

[pizzarider]

It calls for 5w 30 and i found that in conventional. Would that be ok to break it in? It is about mid 80s here in southern, IN. -Cory

[dieselhead]

Im thinking of tryin this stuff out. I run the motul 505.1 diesel oil in my 2 VW diesels @ 10K changes (suposed to go 15K). Motul is good but a bit pricy.. Read the reviews
http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/...-38-MOT-1.html

[IronFist]

Pizza:
If it's clean, and dino, and doesn't say friction reducers, it should be fine.

CLEAN->change it a lot, especially when new.
Dino-> always for new bikes till the valves are seated.
Friction reducers are not good for wet clutches.

[VinceDrake]

I'm more concerned about breaking in the rings than the valves, but everything IronFist said, x2.

Others may disagree (*will* disagree) but temps in the mid 80's, on a new engine, short trips, stop and go riding, I would say a 15w40 or straight 30 would be a better choice, but I really doubt the 5w30 would hurt it in any way...

--Vince

[pizzarider]

Originally Posted by IronFist

Pizza:
If it's clean, and dino, and doesn't say friction reducers, it should be fine.

CLEAN->change it a lot, especially when new.
Dino-> always for new bikes till the valves are seated.
Friction reducers are not good for wet clutches.

Thanks! -Cory

[hoggin84]

So is it ok to run auto oil or not????? CASTROL GTX SAE 10W-40??????


Will it kill my engine?????? I only have 50 miles on my LF200gy5?????

thanks