My new project, a trailer for behind my sunfire - Page 3

katoranger · 05-01-2012, 01:56 PM

Any progress on the Sunfire or trailer?

Jim · 05-07-2012, 12:19 PM

My clutch didn't arrive in time, I ended up stuck on the side of hwy 99 just before the massey tunnel, with out the car able to move. We pushed it up onto the trailer, then noticed it was in gear, that's how much I couldn't move. The clutch arrived a few days later. It got to that point pretty quick from just slipping sometimes.

I ordered a new clutch and pressure plate from ebay, it was about $60 total. I helped, but my dad did most of the work... Anyways we took the motor right out (he figured it would be easier). Since we had the motor right out I wanted to try and stop the oil leaks. He put in a new front and rear seal, oil pan gasket, I believe another seal on the rear of the motor for something, and we put in two new axle seals. We also changed the belt tensioner (replacement for $12 at pick-a-part), and the power steering cap, and an o-ring on a power steering hose. I think the clutch pedal feels a little funny maybe, but it works, so I think I just need to get used to it. It does appear it still leaks a little bit of oil between the engine and transmission still and I'm not sure from where. It doesn't seem like very much, maybe it will stop? I thought maybe it was from the transmission since I don't think we did the seal there, but my dad said it didn't look like it was leaking before. Anyways it is all back together. I also took 4 almost new tires of my brothers cavalier that he says he's selling for cheap, since the tires won't make a difference at the price he said, and the new battery with 9 year warranty he had in it.

FastDoc · 05-07-2012, 12:24 PM

Wow that was an ordeal! Glad you got it sorted OK.

Your dad is a HERO by the way! What a mechanic!

Jim · 05-07-2012, 12:28 PM

Indeed

I helped when I could, but he did the seals while I was at work. I helped getting the motor in and out, but he spent time unhooking hoses and wires while I was working. I was there when we put it back in and hooked everything up, it went pretty smooth going in actually. I mostly changed the tires, with the aid of my tire bars I bought for my motorcycle, very handy, but my dad helped with those a bit too to speed things up.

FastDoc · 05-07-2012, 12:30 PM

Is your dad a professional mechanic?

Jim · 05-07-2012, 12:31 PM

As far as the trailer goes, I've made a bit of progress. I've got a pile of scrap metal (and metal with wood bits that need to be removed). The rest of the wood and canvas have gone in the bin. There were a few pieces that have been given away, water tanks, stove, etc, as well as some lawn chairs and random stuff that was in the trailer.

The fenders are plastic, I'm going to reuses them with a bit of modification.

I did some cutting, and this is the starting point for the trailer (thanks for the cutting discs weld).

I probably will use the a-frame drawbar, just because it's already there, and has the jack and surgebrake stuff on it. I took of the propane bottle holder and gave it away (along with the bottle), and may put a tool box or something on the plate that remains.

Thinking about it now, there really is no need for a jack on this trailer is there... Anyways I may reuse it simply because I have that a-frame, rather than finding a nice piece of steel for a new draw bar. It still won't weigh much.

I have the vin tag from the tent trailer, not sure if I should put it back on or not, it's a sticker that was on the siding, and not all of the letters are visible. I could just re-register as a ubuilt.

Jim · 05-07-2012, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FastDoc

Is your dad a professional mechanic?

No he's a truck driver, but he does a lot of his own work on the truck as well has always worked on his own vehicles, and previously worked in an autobody shop.

Weldangrind · 05-07-2012, 02:35 PM

Jim's Dad is the Man! I've had the pleasure of meeting him a few times, and he's very smart (like Jim) and a real gentleman (also like Jim - seeing a pattern here).

The Massey tunnel would be an awful place to get stuck! I'm glad that you weren't stuck inside. 8O

Is your clutch activated by cable or slave cylinder?

The trailer doesn't require brakes if it's under 2000lbs, so I'd be getting rid of the surge brakes and associated parts. The less weight your car has to pull, the better. I'd also lose the jack and concentrate on making a lightweight utility trailer.

SpudRider · 05-07-2012, 02:39 PM

Wow! 8O You have made a lot of progress on both the Sunfire, and the trailer!

You are blessed to have such a talented, generous, and kind man for your father, Jim.

Spud

Jim · 05-07-2012, 09:33 PM

Weld, it has a slave cylinder. We changed it last year, but didn't do the clutch because it was working fine at the time (when there was fluid in the cylinder anyways).

Yes the tunnel would not have been good. It started slipping more when I got closer and I noticed I could only do 90km but it was slipping so I slowed up a bit and tried to accelerate knowing there is an up hill on the exit of the tunnel and if I got stuck there would likely be an accident. It wouldn't accelerate at all, I was already past the river rd exit, so I just coasted to the right shoulder across the hov lane and got off the road.

I know the trailer doesn't require brakes, but they're already there, and it's pretty light, how much weight would I really save losing 2 brakes and 1 jack? I might set it up so I can pull my motorcycle with it too.

If the brakes on it are bad and going to need to be replaced, then yeah I would definitely get rid of them.

Weldangrind · 05-07-2012, 09:52 PM

Your slave must be external. Son of Weldangrind's Ranger has an internal slave, so you access the clutch when you change it. We're in the middle of that.

The brakes and jack all add up to more weight. If I was starting with the same raw materials, I'd use a single square tube drawbar and then 45 out to support a tool box. the single drawbar can be welded just above the axle for maximum strength, and it can be (relatively) light wall tube.

It's your trailer of course. Just my $0.02.

Jim · 05-07-2012, 10:22 PM

No it's internal, but I didn't believe I needed a clutch, so I didn't buy one at the time. I hadn't had any problems with it. We changed the cylinder without removing the engine, and it was very tight in there.

As far as the trailer goes, I'm trying to build the trailer out of steel that the trailer came with, so that's why I'm looking at reusing the aframe. I don't have much spare steel around and don't want to waste money on it. The other thing I am thinking of is how you say the weight should by 60%(was that the number) in front of the axle. Well I'm not counting on the load to weigh very much, so I figured it the draw bar weighed a bit extra that would help out. A plastic kayak only weighs about 30 - 35 pounds.

Weldangrind · 05-08-2012, 02:19 AM

I didn't mean to actually imply that 60% of the weight should be forward, but that's a good way to look at it. What I meant to share was that the axle should be 60% back from the front of the cargo area for good stability, empty or full.

A piece of square tube from Metal Supermarket wouldn't be terribly expensive, especially for a light weight trailer. I priced it out for a trailer project that I have in mind, although I can't remember the costs at this time. The real point is that the costs were insignificant enough for me to not worry about it, despite being really Scottish. If you drop in there (they're close to the Colossus theatre in Langley), they'll not only price out the material for you, they'll give you a printout and tell you how much it weighs.

BTW, I have some light wall square tube that needs a good home, so let me know if I can donate some to the cause.

Jim · 05-08-2012, 04:30 AM

I'll have to see how it goes

I understand what you mean about the spacing of the axle, I'm just considering that the overall weight, and specifically the typical loaded weight will pretty well be insignificant, so the trailer may as well make up for it a little. There isn't going to be any heavy deck or anything. The only part of the trailer that will stick out past the rear spring shackle is going to be a very insignificant "bumper", so I have somewhere to put lights and reflector tape. Also I need to see what the rule is on load sticking past the rear of the trailer.

The kayaks I believe are 9 feet long, so can either have 4.5 feet on either side of the axle (of kayak), plus additional spacing up front to allow for turning, or space the kayak further forward, I think anymore than 5 feet in front of the axle however, when adding space to allow for turning, is going to make the trailer unnecessarily long.

I suppose longer would be more stable and easier to back up, but I don't think I should have too big of a problem. There will be at least 5 feet between the hitch and the axle, the amount of trailer behind that should be irrelevant unless the weight is improperly distributed to behind the axle. Since the trailer will be heavier up front, and the kayaks will be forward from center of the axle, it should work out. I also have a spare tire I could place on the trailer somewhere if I need to distribute weight. I wonder if my sunfire spare would fit the trailer, hmm I will have to check that.

I'll have to check out ICBC's website or the motor vehicle act to see what I'm allowed for length past the back.

FastDoc · 05-08-2012, 12:28 PM

Some stuff to share I learned from my little 3 rail motorcycle trailer. I pull it behind my 6 Cylinder Ranger.

1. Weight matters when you take it off and move it by hand into the garage or wherever you store it. Plus I would imagine with a 4 Cylinder car it wouldd be easier on the driveline, especially if there are hills.

2. Short-coupling does make it harder to back up and easier to jack knife but it's OK it you go slow. You're a professional so it won't bother you none. 8)

05-01-2012, 01:56 PM	#31
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Any progress on the Sunfire or trailer? __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
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05-07-2012, 12:19 PM	#32
Jim Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada Posts: 4,880	My clutch didn't arrive in time, I ended up stuck on the side of hwy 99 just before the massey tunnel, with out the car able to move. We pushed it up onto the trailer, then noticed it was in gear, that's how much I couldn't move. The clutch arrived a few days later. It got to that point pretty quick from just slipping sometimes. I ordered a new clutch and pressure plate from ebay, it was about $60 total. I helped, but my dad did most of the work... Anyways we took the motor right out (he figured it would be easier). Since we had the motor right out I wanted to try and stop the oil leaks. He put in a new front and rear seal, oil pan gasket, I believe another seal on the rear of the motor for something, and we put in two new axle seals. We also changed the belt tensioner (replacement for $12 at pick-a-part), and the power steering cap, and an o-ring on a power steering hose. I think the clutch pedal feels a little funny maybe, but it works, so I think I just need to get used to it. It does appear it still leaks a little bit of oil between the engine and transmission still and I'm not sure from where. It doesn't seem like very much, maybe it will stop? I thought maybe it was from the transmission since I don't think we did the seal there, but my dad said it didn't look like it was leaking before. Anyways it is all back together. I also took 4 almost new tires of my brothers cavalier that he says he's selling for cheap, since the tires won't make a difference at the price he said, and the new battery with 9 year warranty he had in it. __________________ "Be excellent to each other" "We are all human. Let's start to prove it!"
	0

05-07-2012, 12:24 PM	#33
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	Wow that was an ordeal! Glad you got it sorted OK. Your dad is a HERO by the way! What a mechanic! __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

05-07-2012, 12:28 PM	#34
Jim Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada Posts: 4,880	Indeed I helped when I could, but he did the seals while I was at work. I helped getting the motor in and out, but he spent time unhooking hoses and wires while I was working. I was there when we put it back in and hooked everything up, it went pretty smooth going in actually. I mostly changed the tires, with the aid of my tire bars I bought for my motorcycle, very handy, but my dad helped with those a bit too to speed things up. __________________ "Be excellent to each other" "We are all human. Let's start to prove it!"
	0

05-07-2012, 12:30 PM	#35
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	Is your dad a professional mechanic? __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

05-07-2012, 12:31 PM	#36
Jim Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada Posts: 4,880	As far as the trailer goes, I've made a bit of progress. I've got a pile of scrap metal (and metal with wood bits that need to be removed). The rest of the wood and canvas have gone in the bin. There were a few pieces that have been given away, water tanks, stove, etc, as well as some lawn chairs and random stuff that was in the trailer. The fenders are plastic, I'm going to reuses them with a bit of modification. I did some cutting, and this is the starting point for the trailer (thanks for the cutting discs weld). I probably will use the a-frame drawbar, just because it's already there, and has the jack and surgebrake stuff on it. I took of the propane bottle holder and gave it away (along with the bottle), and may put a tool box or something on the plate that remains. Thinking about it now, there really is no need for a jack on this trailer is there... Anyways I may reuse it simply because I have that a-frame, rather than finding a nice piece of steel for a new draw bar. It still won't weigh much. I have the vin tag from the tent trailer, not sure if I should put it back on or not, it's a sticker that was on the siding, and not all of the letters are visible. I could just re-register as a ubuilt. __________________ "Be excellent to each other" "We are all human. Let's start to prove it!"
	0

05-07-2012, 02:35 PM	#38
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Jim's Dad is the Man! I've had the pleasure of meeting him a few times, and he's very smart (like Jim) and a real gentleman (also like Jim - seeing a pattern here). The Massey tunnel would be an awful place to get stuck! I'm glad that you weren't stuck inside. 8O Is your clutch activated by cable or slave cylinder? The trailer doesn't require brakes if it's under 2000lbs, so I'd be getting rid of the surge brakes and associated parts. The less weight your car has to pull, the better. I'd also lose the jack and concentrate on making a lightweight utility trailer. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

05-07-2012, 02:39 PM	#39
SpudRider Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Idaho Posts: 25,054	Wow! 8O You have made a lot of progress on both the Sunfire, and the trailer! You are blessed to have such a talented, generous, and kind man for your father, Jim. Spud __________________ Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894
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05-07-2012, 09:33 PM	#40
Jim Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada Posts: 4,880	Weld, it has a slave cylinder. We changed it last year, but didn't do the clutch because it was working fine at the time (when there was fluid in the cylinder anyways). Yes the tunnel would not have been good. It started slipping more when I got closer and I noticed I could only do 90km but it was slipping so I slowed up a bit and tried to accelerate knowing there is an up hill on the exit of the tunnel and if I got stuck there would likely be an accident. It wouldn't accelerate at all, I was already past the river rd exit, so I just coasted to the right shoulder across the hov lane and got off the road. I know the trailer doesn't require brakes, but they're already there, and it's pretty light, how much weight would I really save losing 2 brakes and 1 jack? I might set it up so I can pull my motorcycle with it too. If the brakes on it are bad and going to need to be replaced, then yeah I would definitely get rid of them. __________________ "Be excellent to each other" "We are all human. Let's start to prove it!"
	0

05-07-2012, 09:52 PM	#41
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Your slave must be external. Son of Weldangrind's Ranger has an internal slave, so you access the clutch when you change it. We're in the middle of that. The brakes and jack all add up to more weight. If I was starting with the same raw materials, I'd use a single square tube drawbar and then 45 out to support a tool box. the single drawbar can be welded just above the axle for maximum strength, and it can be (relatively) light wall tube. It's your trailer of course. Just my $0.02. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

05-07-2012, 10:22 PM	#42
Jim Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada Posts: 4,880	No it's internal, but I didn't believe I needed a clutch, so I didn't buy one at the time. I hadn't had any problems with it. We changed the cylinder without removing the engine, and it was very tight in there. As far as the trailer goes, I'm trying to build the trailer out of steel that the trailer came with, so that's why I'm looking at reusing the aframe. I don't have much spare steel around and don't want to waste money on it. The other thing I am thinking of is how you say the weight should by 60%(was that the number) in front of the axle. Well I'm not counting on the load to weigh very much, so I figured it the draw bar weighed a bit extra that would help out. A plastic kayak only weighs about 30 - 35 pounds. __________________ "Be excellent to each other" "We are all human. Let's start to prove it!"
	0

05-08-2012, 02:19 AM	#43
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I didn't mean to actually imply that 60% of the weight should be forward, but that's a good way to look at it. What I meant to share was that the axle should be 60% back from the front of the cargo area for good stability, empty or full. A piece of square tube from Metal Supermarket wouldn't be terribly expensive, especially for a light weight trailer. I priced it out for a trailer project that I have in mind, although I can't remember the costs at this time. The real point is that the costs were insignificant enough for me to not worry about it, despite being really Scottish. If you drop in there (they're close to the Colossus theatre in Langley), they'll not only price out the material for you, they'll give you a printout and tell you how much it weighs. BTW, I have some light wall square tube that needs a good home, so let me know if I can donate some to the cause. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

05-08-2012, 04:30 AM	#44
Jim Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada Posts: 4,880	I'll have to see how it goes I understand what you mean about the spacing of the axle, I'm just considering that the overall weight, and specifically the typical loaded weight will pretty well be insignificant, so the trailer may as well make up for it a little. There isn't going to be any heavy deck or anything. The only part of the trailer that will stick out past the rear spring shackle is going to be a very insignificant "bumper", so I have somewhere to put lights and reflector tape. Also I need to see what the rule is on load sticking past the rear of the trailer. The kayaks I believe are 9 feet long, so can either have 4.5 feet on either side of the axle (of kayak), plus additional spacing up front to allow for turning, or space the kayak further forward, I think anymore than 5 feet in front of the axle however, when adding space to allow for turning, is going to make the trailer unnecessarily long. I suppose longer would be more stable and easier to back up, but I don't think I should have too big of a problem. There will be at least 5 feet between the hitch and the axle, the amount of trailer behind that should be irrelevant unless the weight is improperly distributed to behind the axle. Since the trailer will be heavier up front, and the kayaks will be forward from center of the axle, it should work out. I also have a spare tire I could place on the trailer somewhere if I need to distribute weight. I wonder if my sunfire spare would fit the trailer, hmm I will have to check that. I'll have to check out ICBC's website or the motor vehicle act to see what I'm allowed for length past the back. __________________ "Be excellent to each other" "We are all human. Let's start to prove it!"
	0

05-08-2012, 12:28 PM	#45
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	Some stuff to share I learned from my little 3 rail motorcycle trailer. I pull it behind my 6 Cylinder Ranger. 1. Weight matters when you take it off and move it by hand into the garage or wherever you store it. Plus I would imagine with a 4 Cylinder car it wouldd be easier on the driveline, especially if there are hills. 2. Short-coupling does make it harder to back up and easier to jack knife but it's OK it you go slow. You're a professional so it won't bother you none. 8) __________________ Happy to serve.
	0