TaoTao ATA-250D Mods & Q&A

[2LZ]

Yah, the spacers make a huge difference! We have a steep-ish hill in the back that we work on and Mrs. 2LZ was paranoid of rolling, so I did the spacers for that reason...and appearance also. Looked real funny. I was told by my CB guy in Sac that they stagger the stance to make it "easier to turn" was what he said. I've not noticed any difference turning with the spacers.

[anhoard]

Okay, this is going to be a 2 part post:

My ATA-250 came with a very simple 2 light system for showing what gear the wheeler is in; R for Reverse and N for Neutral. Well, I dont like that. The lights are dim and hard to see in bright light. I also do not like that I dont know what Forward Gear I am in at any point in time.

So, I am going to redo the lights and add 4 Forward Gear lights. I am going to use LED lights for power conservation and brightness. * I originally only ordered 2 lights because I was just going to replace the stock lights with LEDs, but I later decided to add 4 forward gear lights once I confirmed the tranny had a full harness for lights. The 2 original lights are the same size as the stock lights, the 4 additional lights are slightly smaller, but they are fully sealed and watertight.

I am also going to be moving the location of the lights. Right now, the 2 lights are on the handlebars on the little plastic cover. It is hard to see the lights under the handlebar pad, plus I have mounted a bracket to the crossbar on the handlebars that I am going to me using to mount another item to.

I traced the 2 current lights to the wiring harness. I noticed extra plugs in the harness and using a volt meter, determined that it DOES have a full gear position indicator in the tranny. I marked the harness with the appropriate gear number for wiring in the new lights.

I have ordered some ABS Plastic sheets from Amazon. I am going to use them to mold a cover and rivet it to the back side of the fender behind the new lights to protect the back sides from mud and grime from the front tire.

The new lights will be mounted on the Front fender wheel well, next to the ignition key. I have created a rendering of what the finished display should look like. I am going to mount and wire up the lights tomorrow, and I will mold the cover and install it when the ABS arrives Monday. The letters and number wont be there, those are just for reference in the pic.

See pictures below. Final pics will be posted upon completion.

[anhoard]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

Lovin the LED's! Nice work! Yah...don't you just love how the factory bulbs shine no where? Wow...thet ATA250 must be dang tall because I thought the Rhino was tall! I'll have to get a seat measure on mine tonight...and I have my front shocks on the lower mount too.

Ground to bottom of main frame (under motor): 14 inches
Ground to top of seat at gas tank: 36 inches

[Adjuster]

Instead of the ABS plastic sheet. Have you ever worked with Kydex? It is most known for firearms holsters. It is extremely durable but it can be formed into any shape with the heat of a hair dryer or more quickly a heat gun. You can even lay a sheet of it over top of something say for instance a pistol and place it in the oven and it will self mold to the exact shape of the pistol. Hence why it is so popular for holsters.


http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...sheet&_sacat=0



/

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by anhoard

Ground to bottom of main frame (under motor): 14 inches
Ground to top of seat at gas tank: 36 inches

You got me curious so I looked it up. At least according to these guys, they're about the same rig....but we all know how accurate some of these sites can be, ;-)

Superior Power Sports

Rhino:
DIMENSIONS
Overall Length 69.3in
Overall Width 42.1in
Overall Height 43.3in
Seat height 31.89
Ground Clearance 5.32in
Wheelbase 43.9in
Net Weight 308.6lbs

250D
DIMENSIONS
Overall Length 69.3in
Overall Width 42.1in
Overall Height 43.3in
Seat height 31.89
Ground Clearance 5.32in
Wheelbase 43.9in
Net Weight 309lbs

[anhoard]

Originally Posted by Adjuster

Instead of the ABS plastic sheet. Have you ever worked with Kydex? It is most known for firearms holsters. It is extremely durable but it can be formed into any shape with the heat of a hair dryer or more quickly a heat gun. You can even lay a sheet of it over top of something say for instance a pistol and place it in the oven and it will self mold to the exact shape of the pistol. Hence why it is so popular for holsters.


http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...sheet&_sacat=0



/

I have worked with Kydex. I use it for molding my own holsters. Problem is its generally softer material and more expensive. I use ABS for its ease. I heat it with my heat gun, bend it and it stays just like that. Kydex, cause its softer, can actually stretch over time and the ABS is a stiffer product for mounting things to.

[anhoard]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

You got me curious so I looked it up. At least according to these guys, they're about the same rig....but we all know how accurate some of these sites can be, ;-)

Superior Power Sports

Rhino:
DIMENSIONS
Overall Length 69.3in
Overall Width 42.1in
Overall Height 43.3in
Seat height 31.89
Ground Clearance 5.32in
Wheelbase 43.9in
Net Weight 308.6lbs

250D
DIMENSIONS
Overall Length 69.3in
Overall Width 42.1in
Overall Height 43.3in
Seat height 31.89
Ground Clearance 5.32in
Wheelbase 43.9in
Net Weight 309lbs

There was a Rhino and an ATA-250 right next to each other in my local store. My ATA was about 3-4 inches taller than the Rhino. So..... Maybe I just got a good one! The tires were the same size but the frame was higher (ground clearance), the seat and foot pegs were higher and the handlebars were higher. Maybe the Rhino was set on a lower suspension setting.

I do think though that the Rhino is closer to a real 250cc (I thinks its a 230) than the ATA. My motor is a 200cc. Plus the ATA is setup with a larger front sprocket and smaller chain. I hear the Rhino uses a 12t front with a 528 chain??? My ATA came with a 14t front, 40t back with 428 chain. Its now a 13t front.

[anhoard]

Are your Rhino's automatics? All the Rhinos in my local store are autos. The ATA-250D's in my local store are manuals. Rhinos are R-N-D, ATAs are R-N-1-2-3-4.

What about your MCO's? Does it say Rhino or ATA-250 as the model?

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by anhoard

There was a Rhino and an ATA-250 right next to each other in my local store. My ATA was about 3-4 inches taller than the Rhino. So..... Maybe I just got a good one! The tires were the same size but the frame was higher (ground clearance), the seat and foot pegs were higher and the handlebars were higher. Maybe the Rhino was set on a lower suspension setting.

I do think though that the Rhino is closer to a real 250cc (I thinks its a 230) than the ATA. My motor is a 200cc. Plus the ATA is setup with a larger front sprocket and smaller chain. I hear the Rhino uses a 12t front with a 528 chain??? My ATA came with a 14t front, 40t back with 428 chain. Its now a 13t front.

I'll get a seat measure on it later, now that we're all curious. My CB guy in Sac told me that Tao Tao raised all their "full sized" quads after last year so maybe yours was parked next to an older model year??

I was SHOCKED when I uncrated it and saw the 520 chain. Yah, it's a 12t on the front...which has left us kinda hosed for finding a rear sprocket to slow the dang thing down and help make first gear a granny. JT Sprockets finally emailed me back and said "No can help". I bought it for working around the property, not doing 50 mph up my road. I don't think I've even seen 3rd gear yet.

Also, my Rhino has a 167FMM in it...which is the 250 class but it's a 229/230.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by anhoard

Are your Rhino's automatics? All the Rhinos in my local store are autos. The ATA-250D's in my local store are manuals. Rhinos are R-N-D, ATAs are R-N-1-2-3-4.

What about your MCO's? Does it say Rhino or ATA-250 as the model?

Yep....all Rhino's are manual tranny's. The GY6 150 has the auto CV type. Maybe you were looking at a new 150 Bull? I've seen the Rhino hip plastics on some 150's.

[anhoard]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

I'll get a seat measure on it later, now that we're all curious. My CB guy in Sac told me that Tao Tao raised all their "full sized" quads after last year so maybe yours was parked next to an older model year??

I was SHOCKED when I uncrated it and saw the 520 chain. Yah, it's a 12t on the front...which has left us kinda hosed for finding a rear sprocket to slow the dang thing down and help make first gear a granny. JT Sprockets finally emailed me back and said "No can help". I bought it for working around the property, not doing 50 mph up my road. I don't think I've even seen 3rd gear yet.

Also, my Rhino has a 167FMM in it...which is the 250 class but it's a 229/230.

What about changing everything out. Go to a 428 setup. 40t 428 rear sprocket, 13t 428 front and a 428 chain? might be easier than finding 520 parts.

[Speckred17]

anhoard,

Great idea on the lights. I am going to steal that one since my kids keep stalling theirs out thinking they are first when they are in 3rd or 4th. Where did you get the lights from? Do you have a link?

On the plastic you are molding, are you going to drill holes for the wiring or keep all the wiring inside the plastic and route it out the side? I look forward to seeing the end result.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by anhoard

What about changing everything out. Go to a 428 setup. 40t 428 rear sprocket, 13t 428 front and a 428 chain? might be easier than finding 520 parts.

May be an option down the road but I sure like the 520. Nice and beefy...though not many options. From what I hear, 'funonemax" may be getting a sprocket made at some place not to far from his hometown that will add 4 teeth to the rear. That would also open up other options for others here who may want to go with the 520 setup. We'll see what happens... Hopefully I gave him the correct measurements!

[Mudflap]

The custom made sprockets I've tried were all made of aluminum rather than steel, and wore out very quickly. Rather than use custom made sprockets I'd like to see an adapter made so a readily available JTF sprocket could be bolted to the hub.

For my use a 13/40 (428 chain, 3.076/1) works great. Climbs great from a stop and tops out at about 40 mph.

[Mudflap]

BTW: I put an $8 tach/hour meter on the ATA250D to keep track of hours between regular maintenance. Waterproof and works great.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331757605310...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT