2021 Xpro Titan DLX

[Plump Kibbles]

Alright! Once I figured out, again, how to get the pics to show up lol there she be!

I do have the 20 dollar bark busters that are full metal, except obviously the black parts, but do work very well; and hold up very well! I had it fall over on the trailer before registration - smacked pretty hard and absolutely no damages. Definitely saved the levers!

The front sprocket cover is thanks to AliExpress and all of 12 dollars I think? They offer all the colors for the Orion RXB and the XPro Zongshen 230cc - I would recommend the ABS sprocket cover especially if you're converting to 520 chain - the stock cover is too tight and the chain smacks the cover... so, pretty easy fix! And now there is no contact between the chain or any part of the cover.

GPS - figured that'd be neat to include, maybe. Small water / shock proof deal from Fod Sports. I got the Windows mobile version - yes there are Android ones, but the MS one boots way faster.. that matters to me, but maybe not someone else lol absolutely a handy device and I use it to watch my speed too. 5V adapter is included and all mounting stuff.

Booooooost bottle! 20 bucks on Amazon, hooks into the EGR / SAI inlet on the intake - acts like a spring on the intake pressure, helps out immensely on hills and strenuous torque demands. Little 'ol Yamaha trick from back in the day No, not only for two stroke!!

Muffler - So as you can see, there's a reducer slip joint or lap joint I think they're called, 52mm to 50mm. The new pipe is just barely short around 3in from the muffler slip on. The Orion pipe also isn't a 50mm or 52mm hookup; slightly smaller I think around 48mm.. Anyway, I had to shim the gap on the pipe side to the joint, muffler fit perfect - loctited the bolts / nuts and got everything as tight as I could - no leaks! I know, I was surprised too

LED headlight - I think was under 20 bucks on Amazon. For the XPro I would highly suggest clipping the small running light under the main headlight (weird setup..) and keep the wires separated and out of the way. The reason - when switching to LED, the electrical gets confused with the two bulbs one being LED and one incandescent. This causes the LED bulb to be stuck in high or low beam and then usually fries the switch on the bulb itself - went through two LED's before figuring that one out! H4 headlights too, cheapies.

Standard CRF250L tail tidy kit, 28 bucks eBay - comes with the lights and all hardware. The rear light / tag light is integrated on this bike - kinda hate that, but gotta deal with it! This makes it a little better at least, again - all LED.

Pro Taper grips - not as 'cushionie' as the grip puppies I bet. The bike came with some foam / rubber grip covers, but RIPPED when I was putting them on lol.. go me! These do nothing for vibrations, just better grip in general than stock. I use the RockBrothers mountain bike gloves - say what you will, 10mm thick palm padding; bring it! Those are the most comfortable riding gloves I've ever had lol and actually help with the vibes! The new front brake lever has a bigger master cylinder with the aftermarket setup - good plus for braking. Though, tons of brake fade with the stock setup in the rain!!!!!

Cycra YZ250 skid plate - Didn't think that was going to fit, but was pleasantly surprised to see that it did! It is about 4 or 5mm thick polymer - if you don't mind the material it's not that bad. It has been bashed against some rocks and such so far - held up and saved my engine and frame!

Shifter - IMS shifter, much better than stock.. the stock one feels like it should be on a 50cc kids bike. This is awesome - love the extended shift lever, and it is angled so it doesn't hit any part of the engine or get close to it at all. Another cheap Amazon special!

Tube - I believe it's actually for a fuel bottle, but I use it to keep the tools, water bottles, and other things I can stuff in there. It is waterproof and can say it does work pretty well. The new versions have locks on them, so I missed out. I did have to remove the left panel off the plastics to install.

The carb is a Mikuni clone, JP made; maybe it'll last longer than the other one I had. I have a 110 main jet right now, 42 slow jet, and moved the needle one spot higher / richer.

The gearing I have currently is 12T front and 30T rear, 520 pitch. I think I will go up a few teeth in the rear next sprocket change; see if the acceleration is any better. I did the gearing for top speed only, pinged out couldn't hit 65 if I tried downhill with the wind lol Might play around with the 115 jet later, but for now it's running perfect. Need an a/f mix screw adjustment, but that's it.

I can't say how much I LOVE the look of the bike. For just over 1799 brand new (at the time) - compared to the Hawk, and I'm not talking smack, just looked better.... to me. I did look at the Hawks and Apollos and all as well; seems like you can't go wrong. Unless you get a lemon or one that was dropped every time it was moved.. But, an absolute beast off road too!

[Plump Kibbles]

Originally Posted by severely

I'm hearing you on the new CDI. Would you have a link or website to it? Are your comments about horsepower with the stock head pipe and the baffle removed from the muffler? Or with the unresricted head pipe? I'm really learning a lot from your build. Thanks.

At first, I installed the blue 'racing CDI': https://www.amazon.com/Glixal-ATMT1-...5046976&sr=8-5

With that one, I did notice a little pickup with the stock pipe and baffle out on the muffler. The baffle is just a decibel reducer, sorta. But does add a few MPH when taken out - like 2.. but hey, more!

Now - without the catalytic converter and EGR / SAI, the fuel rate is MUCH more rich and all the exhaust gasses are exiting the pipe. The EGR / SAI crap pushes dirty air back through your intake. But, with the stock catted muffler I was on a 120 main jet - switched pipes and was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too rich. The orange CDI just fits better and matches the color so, but between the orange and blue CDI's I can't tell a difference.

The exhaust pipe on this bike is kinda strange - very weird shape, and all one piece.. no middle pipe and doesn't bolt to the frame in the middle - just on the exhaust port engine side and the muffler... that's it!! The stoneman exhaust and the Power Core exhausts won't fit this bike - I have a power core 2 full exhaust just lying around unused. Didn't feel like trying to bend it either.

It's not in the pics, but where the shift lever is engine side, the pipe was rubbing against it. I took the pipe off, saw where the lever was rubbing the pipe, took it out in the shop, placed a piece of wood under the opposite side of the shift lever marks, and beat the s#!* out of it with a hammer Now there's PLENTY of room for the shift lever to move! Haha.. I think I can list that under 'custom build' when reselling - right? The CDI also has an effect with the aftermarket plug coil too - big, big spark lol I am also running the NGK Iridium DRP8EiX-9 plug; stock is NGK D8EA, too! Didn't know that before buying. But does seem to be better than stock.

Thanks though, man! Though, I may have to keep up with tknj99 on the internal mods! I haven't performed any internal upgrades yet. I really want to try that 280cc big bore kit though - see what this thing can do with more powa!!

[severely]

Originally Posted by tknj99

This is the CDI we both have on our bikes...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z8R92YT...roduct_details

Plump Kibbles bought the full kit here (https://www.amazon.com/Hity-Motor-Pe...N%2CB07R7HXYYV)
while i bought the stripped down version previously linked, but same CDI in both

He is running his on a bike with the stock header replaced with a catless pipe that Orion sells that will work on the Titan (same bike overall)

Im running the CDI on an otherwise stock bike and between tuning the carb properly and adding this, i definitely feel an increase in power.. ofcourse any hp number i state would just be subjective without a dyno measurement, but i think its definitely worth the $10..

I also read that the cdi box and 4-degree timing key play very well together and are a "must".. i hope to purchase and install that in the near future as well as have my stock cat removed.. with the current gearing and setup, the bike feels great and accelerates pretty quick, ofcourse, you need to bang the gears fairly quickly as well

WOW, Thanks for the detailed replies to you and Plump Kibbles. Between the two of you I now have a great plan upon delivery. The CDI/coil setup and carb modifications {40 pilot, 115 main} will be on all the bikes before I even start them. I'll look at the other mods as necessary. One question, where is the boost bottle connected on the intake?

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by severely

WOW, Thanks for the detailed replies to you and Plump Kibbles. Between the two of you I now have a great plan upon delivery. The CDI/coil setup and carb modifications {40 pilot, 115 main} will be on all the bikes before I even start them. I'll look at the other mods as necessary. One question, where is the boost bottle connected on the intake?

You will want to remove the EGR plumbing and then can use a thin metal bracket and cut and drill to block off the port on the side of the engine head. After you do that you will find that the intake manifold has a rubber hose line running to it.. this will be removed when you remove the EGR plumbing leaving an exposed port. I cut a short section of rubber line and then used a tire cap to cap that line.. basically that port sucks in clean air and is used by the EGR.
That port is what you will connect the boost bottle line to should you purchase one.

[Plump Kibbles]

Originally Posted by tknj99

You will want to remove the EGR plumbing and then can use a thin metal bracket and cut....

What he said Got to it before me! Haha

The only thing to keep in mind about that EGR stuff - when you remove it and keep the stock catalytic converter pipe, there is a chance that the CAT will become clogged with time. I haven't had that happen to me luckily - but have read that could happen. If you do go with the boost bottle, every 150mi I uncap one side and drain the gas back into the tank. I don't have as much going into the bottle anymore - I had to run way rich with the stock pipe to get the results I wanted; hopefully not ruining the internals in the process! I can't remember the exact site I got the blocker plate from - Ohio motorcycle or something of that nature - 8 bucks with hardware and a new gasket. Also, my EGR tubing that was routed above the engine was pinched and wouldn't start, and if it did wouldn't stay running long at all. I too had the breather tube debacle on the gas cap, probably common for these!

Note on the CDI's: The adjustable ones won't work with this bike. I was planning to check one out for myself and noticed most all of the adjustable ones are DC - this bike is AC, if I'm not mistaken.. and use all six pins. Nothing will happen if you plug the wrong one up though, just wont start. The orange CDI's are rated the best on every outlet where you can get them. The blue metal one I have too, just bulky-ish and awkward to install.

So I take it there's yet another X-Pro coming soon?! Good on ya, mate! You won't be disappointed!!

[Plump Kibbles]

Originally Posted by severely

... One question, where is the boost bottle connected on the intake?

No problem, man!

On the 10th pic down, you can see the hose going to the intake manifold inlet from the EGR setup on the 45ish degree bend. I just stuck it above the carb and back around to the bottle. Probably could have used something other than a 3/8 fuel line lol but didn't have anything else.

By the way - removing that EGR / SAI crap takes off about 5lbs of dead weight! Not to mention opens up the engine space - two in one kinda mod

I'm wondering if this would work... I watched a video of someone that dremeled out the mount brackets on the timing sensor to move it slightly 'before' where it normally sits and advances the timing. Not sure how much, but did work..

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by Plump Kibbles

I'm wondering if this would work... I watched a video of someone that dremeled out the mount brackets on the timing sensor to move it slightly 'before' where it normally sits and advances the timing. Not sure how much, but did work..

Hmm, that sounds interesting but may be more risky than its worth especially since you'd need to get the flywheel off to do that, and by then youre at the home-stretch and the $22 flywheel key seems like the safest play.

I'm foaming at the mouth to do that flywheel key mod especially since its my one big failure on the Brozz that i posted my trials and tribulations extensively about in the past.. sorta like having a second chance now at the one that got away


Some fun reading if you want on the 4 degree timing key.. and also a lesson in how not to do it:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...t=brozz+timing

[China Rider 27]

CB strong, ride hard!

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

CB strong, ride hard!

Well said! Makes me wonder why we didn't get a "Strongest" sticker

[China Rider 27]

Wishful thinking! CG strong, ride hard!

[Plump Kibbles]

I'll most likely end up getting the timing key and wheel puller to get 'er in.

My thoughts exactly about the sensor mod; especially if it decides to loosen up! Nothing a little Loctite could fix - but the key would be easier! Looked up how to do it - pretty simple looking actually too.

Speaking of stickers - someone posted about some China Riders stickers a while back.... I WANT SOME, but don't remember who it was posting about it! I'd slap about 50 or so on my bike if I could get them lol

On the hunt for a larger gas tank btw - have seen some (I think..) 5gal ones on the Orion bikes; just wondering if hangs the same as on the X-Pro. Which, there's only ONE bolt in the center holding the tank on the bike, then a slide peg deal on either side. This little almost 2 gallon tank has me paranoid I'm going to be stranded out in the woods somewhere.. Have ran out on the road once - reserve didn't do jack. Thankfully I was right across the street from a gas station. But, yeah that reserve didn't seem to have an affect on anything. I think it just restricts the flow more than in the 'full on' position.. I do take the spare gas cylinder if I go out far-ish. I think it's a 1.5L tank, can't remember; haven't had to actually use it yet. Btw that tube I have for storage doesn't have any padding on the inside, it IS air tight though so no leaks. But, if anyone does do the storage tube and gas cylinder - I'd suggest a t-shirt wrapped around the cylinder... I sacrificed mine for the sake of sanity lol I can't take rattling and loose stuff flapping around during the ride. I'll definitely post up what I find on the bigger tanks too, I'm sure you'd probably want one as well! I'm wanting to say I can replace the cap with one that has a little tank gauge on it.. still, going to do some research on all that!

[tknj99]

Yeap.. i also almost ran out of gas the other day.. prob around the 160 mark and filled 1.9 gal, damn on the teetering edge of empty

I'm testing out with the petcock in the opposite position, curved edge facing down and handle facing up to see if its just oriented wrong. The petcock actually has a small arrow pointing in the direction of the edge of the handle, so, we will see. i'll report back if it works and it will be another quirk to notate..

With regard to the larger tank, check out this thread for the possible:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=29875

[tknj99]

PSA: confirmed today the correct position of the petcock for normal use as well as reserve. It seems this petcock is the opposite of most and the arrow is pointing in the direction of the handle and this is the indicator for position - UP: Normal Down: Reserve
The bike ran 1.7 gallons in the normal position which should leave .2 or so in reserve, good for at least 20 miles
The attached pic is the normal position

[severely]

How about an update? Any new mods? Been riding or put up for winter?

[tknj99]

I've been riding here and there.. The only recent mod was that I swapped out the PZ30 for a new VM26 and installed an extended A/F screw.. I would have stuck with the PZ30 except that while riding one day all of a sudden she wanted to stall anytime I let off the throttle.. Turned out that the a/f screw fell out lol. Guess I had backed it out too far or perhaps forgot to install the spring when I modded that PZ30..
Anyway, she's running great with the new carb and I have the 20 pilot that it came with, needle at 2nd position from bottom (1 step down from middle) and replaced the main with a 120.. I've got close to 400 miles now and soon to change oil again at 500 and be done with break-in.. Then I'll see how high I can wind her out and what speed I can comfortably cruise at on the 55mph roads.