Enter The Carrot

[cheesy]

Good idea using the carabiner. I usually use my foot and wish I had at least one more.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by cheesy

Good idea using the carabiner. I usually use my foot and wish I had at least one more.

Before I thought of that, I was dreading one of the irons coming up and smacking me in the face. Yeah I'm also stuck with two hands and two feet.

BTW this is the tire iron set I bought. Irons are 14.5" long. Works pretty well.
https://www.amazon.com/20601A-Profes...02&sr=1-5&th=1

I'm thinking I might also go with the Harbor Freight motorcycle tire mounting machine. Use both the irons and machine together.
https://www.harborfreight.com/motorc...ker-58770.html

[TominMO]

Got the new condenser. Installed it, checked battery and installed, Turned key on, cranked motor by hand, no spark on plug. Checked for spark at points, again nothing. For now I am assuming the new condenser is good, and there is still another issue. Will try disconnecting Neutral switch as cheesy said. But now it's lunch time. Also cleaned up the battery box and front fender with steel wool.

[TominMO]

So a question here. (If this is a dumb question, then I am asking for a friend.)

Does the stator run in an oil bath, or is it supposed to be dry in there? See pic below. When I pulled the cover, there was evidence that oil had been in there. IDK if that is normal or an indication that an oil seal has failed deeper into the motor.

[MICRider]

On my CT70 the stator ran in a dry area with the flywheel, but from what I've read online the CT90's run with oil in the stator so I don't think you have anything to worry about.

[TominMO]

Thanks. Another thing I have to check is the static timing. The points gap when fully open is correct, but static timing involves rotating the whole points plate so that the points open at the right time. Tomorrow's project.

[TominMO]

Nice big spark at the plug!

Three problems to fix:
1. Replace condenser, which I had already done. Old one was no bueno. New one tested fine.
2. Hook up the brake light switch. Looking at the wiring diagram, one of the two wires from the ignition key goes to that switch. So they want you squeezing the handbrake while kicking. (The left handbrake is for the front. The right handbrake weakly operates the rear brake, enough to trip the brake light switch. They came up with this idea since the motor is kickstart only, and you can't kick and operate the footbrake at the same time.) In 1972 controls were not standardized by DOT as they are now. I think that started in '74 or '75.
3. Re-set the points. Noticed that they never actually closed all the way. Confirmed with the continuity function on my multimeter. Also cleaned the contact surfaces with 220 grit wet/dry, which may have been an issue in itself.

I also checked continuity of all wiring that had anything to do with ignition, including the ignition switch itself. All well.
Fired it up using my drill on the 14mm stator bolt, becuz a lot more revs. Got great spark at the points, then checked the plug; same thing.

I can't yet throw oil in it and fire it up, because I don't have the stator cover gasket or the sub-transmission cover gasket. Gotta order a new engine gasket set. Yeah, I could use grease as a very temporary half-fast gasket replacement, but not gonna. I'm happy it has spark.

[TominMO]

It occurs to me that I can eliminate the brake light switch by just jumpering the two connections on the wiring harness that the two wires on the switch plug into. First I have to check whether there is continuity in the switch with the plunger pulled out (as I suspect) or pushed in.

Here are the tires I am planning to install, since it will be off-road only.
https://www.amazon.com/100-17-Model-...s%2C102&sr=8-2

[TominMO]

In post #32 I mentioned the HF tire-changing tool. That's not gonna work for me. Went to HF and measured the rod that the axle goes through; it's 15mm. My CT90 axles are 12mm, so no. What I will do instead is get a piece of 3/8" or 7/16" allthread and appropriate washers and nuts. Drill a hole for it in my workbench. I'll use pieces of wood to support the rim. Total cost about $10 vs $90, for a tool I will seldom use.

[dirtbkr188]

Tom,


Sometime when you have a little time on your hands (like waiting for parts to arrive), you might want to browse around in HERE, there are quite a few informative threads and posts relating to the CT110.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by jeffrey

If you dont have a repair manual yet,I would suggest you get the Clymer Honda book for 50-110cc OHC singles 1965-1999 #M310-13. It might help out on things.

Thanks. I have the M310 for the bikes from 1965 - 1983. When I pick up the other bike, the PO has a Honda manual for me, and I think another M310 from 1965 - some later year.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by dirtbkr188

Tom,
Sometime when you have a little time on your hands (like waiting for parts to arrive), you might want to browse around in HERE, there are quite a few informative threads and posts relating to the CT110.

Cool, I will be checking them out!

[TominMO]

Didn't do much today, just cleaned up the shifter and the footpeg bracket. Need to take the bracket to a guy who can straighten it with fire/bending. The PO crashed the left side into something and it is somewhat bent. Not hugely, but still.

Due to low funds (ironically caused by buying the bikes, an unbudgeted expense), I will just be piddling around with stuff on it until next month. Can't afford to buy any more parts this month.

[buzz]

Hello I would love to have those bikes, they last for ever. Get them going, I know you can. Best of luck and happy trails

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by buzz

Hello I would love to have those bikes, they last for ever. Get them going, I know you can. Best of luck and happy trails

Thanks. This is the first bike I have ever stripped down like this. The fact that it is gonna be offroad only lets me simplify it too. No tail lights, horn, some wiring, etc. Probably will try to keep the headlight functional, but only high beam is working. (It is a sealed unit; gotta buy the whole headlight, not just a bulb.) Better than nothing. Also will keep the speedo, which fits into the headlight housing.