How can I make my TBR7 as fast as possible?

[Oldenslow]

I think folks need to keep something in mind when they are thinking about upping speed on many if not most Chinese bikes. While the drive trains may well be able with modification to drive these bikes to 70+, the rolling gear -- tires, wheels, suspension, brakes, chain -- are not, generally speaking, the best for that kind of speed. I have not examined every Chinese model sold in America and have ridden only three, but although after break-in and a new spark plug my DF250RTG will run at 73 on reasonably flat road the suspension begins to feel distinctly sketchy the more over 55 I go. Certainly, this can be addressed with money and time, and if you can afford both it can be a lot of fun, but the question then is -- shouldn't I have bought Japanese to begin with?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Oldenslow

I think folks need to keep something in mind when they are thinking about upping speed on many if not most Chinese bikes. While the drive trains may well be able with modification to drive these bikes to 70+, the rolling gear -- tires, wheels, suspension, brakes, chain -- are not, generally speaking, the best for that kind of speed. I have not examined every Chinese model sold in America and have ridden only three, but although after break-in and a new spark plug my DF250RTG will run at 73 on reasonably flat road the suspension begins to feel distinctly sketchy the more over 55 I go. Certainly, this can be addressed with money and time, and if you can afford both it can be a lot of fun, but the question then is -- shouldn't I have bought Japanese to begin with?

I rode my first Hawk om highways at 65mph all the time with minimal time and effort into the suspension. Set the rider sag with preload spacers and put in the appropriate type and level of fork oil. Even on knobby tires, with the pressure at the right level, and regular spoke checks, I was never finding myself feeling "sketchy" on that bike. Minimal effort, minimal cost.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by TxTaoRider

As long as we are limited to 5 gears, and not much horsepower, gearing will always be a huge compromise. A 6th gear would sure help.

The absolute truth is spoken here. If you do the math on adding that extra .8:1 6th gear on a Hawk, you can basically run a 17f/50r sprocket setup while still having a very capable highway gear as if you were running a 45 rear sprocket. Not counting the not very off road suspension into the equation, it would definitely make them a much more capable all around dual sport by being able to handle both off and on road a lot better by retaining a crawler friendly gear AND a highway capable gear.

[Cmhpowersports]

I own a 2021 tbr7 and yes, a dog from the factory. You all already know the usual mods so im here to talk top speed mods. I have tested all gearing setups and have some input. The stock 15-46 as you know is setup for off road torque and not top speed. Ive done as most have and changed to the 17t front sprocket but still not enough if you have to jump on a highway. Heres what i tried. 17t front for all rear changes. 1st was a 45 rear=no noticable change. I then picked up a 43, 41, 40 and a 37 and ran them all. I landed on the 17t - 40 rear combo running a crf performance exhaust with the PZ30 jetted 38 slow and 115 main. With this gearing on a levelish highway my top speed is 82 dropping back to 65 or so pulling grades. The43 rear works well too but i lose about 5-6 mph with the 43. Now running this 17 - 40 is a tall gearing so theres a tiny feather of the clutch pulling out hard in 1st gear but as long as the wheels are turning it still has all the low end grunt to climb mountains no problem

[Tomkay44]

Originally Posted by shiftclick

It's a little different on the 2020 TBR7, but after doing this, I had to adjust the idle screw and I could definitely tell a difference rolling down the road! Guess a performance exhaust is next up for me. Thanks man!

My 2021 TBR7 has less than 10 miles on it so it'll be a while before I check top in. I want to be able to travel the 10 or 20 miles to the trails while not dogging it during break in or getting run over. The only mods so far are a 110 jet on the stock carb and a NGK DPR8EIX-9 plug.
I did buy a 17 tooth for the front but the stock chain's not long enough so it's not on yet. I was planning on leaving the stock 46 in the back for trail torque.
I see you've got a 428 chain, I'm guessing the 130 is the # of links (wrong?). Is the 428 more likely to fit in the chain housing than a 520 or a 530? Also, will it fit okay on the 17 tooth front I bought (that's not on yet) and the 46 stock back?
Hope I'm not breaking thread protocol by posting this question in your thread. If so, let me know so I can behave better.

[ToolmanTim]

Hi
I have the new 2023 TBR7D . Im looking for a 17 tooth front sprocket that fits the new 530 chain that comes with the TBR7D. Is there anyone that can point me in the right direction to purchase one?

[Bill Hilly]

A 13 tooth is as big as you can run, from what I gather. You therefore run a rear with less teeth to achieve the desired ratio. A 32 rear, and 13 front with a 530 is about like a 42/17 with a 428 chain

[CheapThrills]

I'm fat, so losing weight will help me.

[awander]

Originally Posted by kb21guru

....The gearing, the rear gear yields bigger changes than the front, the front gear is for fine tuning. For every rear tooth removed is like adding three teeth up front.....

So, I think it's actually the other way around...You'd have to remove 3 teeth from the rear sprocket, to approximately equal adding 1 tooth to the front sprocket.

For example, with stock gearing of 15 and 46, the sprocket ratio is 1:3.07

Increasing the front sprocket by 1 tooth, so 16/46, the ratio is 2.88.
Decreasing the rear sprocket by 3 teeth, so 15/43, the ratio is nearly identical at 2.87

Doing it the way you said, where removing 1 tooth from the rear should equal adding 3 teeth to the front:

Decreasing the rear sprocket by 1 tooth, so 15/45, the ratio is 3.00.
But, increasing the rear sprocket by 3 teeth, so 18/46, the ratio is 2.56, nowhere near the same.

[ProDigit]

Originally Posted by Oldenslow

I think folks need to keep something in mind when they are thinking about upping speed on many if not most Chinese bikes. While the drive trains may well be able with modification to drive these bikes to 70+, the rolling gear -- tires, wheels, suspension, brakes, chain -- are not, generally speaking, the best for that kind of speed. I have not examined every Chinese model sold in America and have ridden only three, but although after break-in and a new spark plug my DF250RTG will run at 73 on reasonably flat road the suspension begins to feel distinctly sketchy the more over 55 I go. Certainly, this can be addressed with money and time, and if you can afford both it can be a lot of fun, but the question then is -- shouldn't I have bought Japanese to begin with?

My Lifan Xpect (a dual sport bike) could do 74+MPH GPS under the right circumstances, however, anything above 70 you'd have to tuck, and the front end started wobbling. Not as bad as on sports bikes, but enough to not feel safe.

I don't have that problem on my CFMoto 450NK, which goes to 110 and maybe even faster, with the right gearing, but zero wobble at 100MPH, not even when I try to make it wobble.

My Vader 150 does 74MPH as well in the right conditions. Both with the 150 and the CG250 (229cc). Zero wobble or safety issues at those speeds.

I think dirt bikes, and dual sports are more susceptible to wobble and the feeling of lack of safety at higher speeds, especially when turning, due to the suspension being tall and soft.