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Old 02-23-2017, 11:14 PM   #1
Musictrek   Musictrek is offline
 
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Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
Nice job I had to re-jet to a 115 after I gutted mine. I see you got your cluster straighten out too.
Thanks JerryHawk for the idea of cutting the pipe. I got the idea from you. Best idea and cheap way to do it!


 
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Old 02-23-2017, 11:20 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
Nice job I had to re-jet to a 115 after I gutted mine. I see you got your cluster straighten out too.
I'm bit of a QA guy. Things have to be straight of it doesn't look right. The cluster mounts crooked which I can't stand for that.


 
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Old 02-23-2017, 06:17 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Musictrek View Post
Well my Hawk went to ER last night. She had a clogged main artery. Surgery was needed quickly to restore her deep breathing gasp for oxygen.
I did the same to mine a while back. She breaths so much better now. You'll probably need to rejet unless you were already running a little rich.


 
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Old 02-23-2017, 11:12 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by LunaTech View Post
I did the same to mine a while back. She breaths so much better now. You'll probably need to rejet unless you were already running a little rich.
I got her running a 110 jet now. I did notice a little bit of popping during off the throttle deceleration. didn't notice that before I gutted the cat. would that be a lean condition?


 
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:01 AM   #5
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I got her running a 110 jet now. I did notice a little bit of popping during off the throttle deceleration. didn't notice that before I gutted the cat. would that be a lean condition?
After I wrote this, I went ahead and put the 115 in. Started it right up. Will take her out tomorrow to see what the difference is. This Hawk is so easy to work on.


 
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Old 02-23-2017, 08:00 AM   #6
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I got ours new shoes; Michelin T63 rears and Shinko 804 fronts. Mostly for our KAT trip. After that I'm thinking Shinko 700 all around.
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:23 PM   #7
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i cut the bottom 10" off the license plate holder and plate light, i made a bracket to replace the plate holder out of a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate installed two LED posts for plate lights above the plate. i wanted to use black but all they had were the stainless, i'll look around for a couple of them. you can also see the Led turn signals on the back, these things are super bright and they are flexible and cheep, i got 8 of them for $12. i installed the Led head light and tail light also, makes a huge difference.


 
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:35 PM   #8
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My cheapo blaze had all incandescent bulbs. That was the first mods I did, led conversation all the way around. To see and be seen!

This pic was before I installed my led headlight. I think that blueish led is more noticeable and certainly less amperage .
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Old 02-24-2017, 10:30 AM   #9
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I remember reading that 200cc's is what is usually drained from the HAWK forks the first time... does that mean it's the correct number to go back in? Only you will know when you measure the fluid height in the forks

I know when I did the fork oil on the Bashan WILL (regular forks like the HAWK), 200cc drained out of each... but it needed a bit more than that to make the forks actually work how they are supposed to... before they would "DIVE DIVE DIVE" like a submarine... now they are stiff and work as they should
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Old 02-24-2017, 10:35 AM   #10
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Thank Guys, Azule, what weight oil did you use? 10w or did you go with ATF?
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Old 02-24-2017, 10:48 AM   #11
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First time I used Havoline full synthetic ATF (about the same as a 5w or 7w "Fork Oil"), several hundred miles later I did them again, this time with Mobil 1 ATF (again comparable to about a 5w or 7w "Fork Oil")... going to go another few hundred miles and do them a third time*... again with whatever (synthetic) ATF I have on had

I'm a lighter rider tho (only 120lbs) so I don't normally need the thicker/expensive weight "Fork Oils"

* Just trying to clean out every last drop of the crap oil from the factory... so every few hundred miles (about 800 or so) I will change out the oil until it starts to come out as clean as I put it in... when I drained out the Havoline it was already gray/black/nasty/chunky looking and that synthetic oil barely had 800 miles on it
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Old 02-24-2017, 10:53 AM   #12
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is online now
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Originally Posted by Azhule View Post
First time I used Havoline full synthetic ATF (about the same as a 5w or 7w "Fork Oil"), several hundred miles later I did them again, this time with Mobil 1 ATF (again comparable to about a 5w or 7w "Fork Oil")... going to go another few hundred miles and do them a third time*... again with whatever (synthetic) ATF I have on had

I'm a lighter rider tho (only 120lbs) so I don't normally need the thicker/expensive weight "Fork Oils"

* Just trying to clean out every last drop of the crap oil from the factory... so every few hundred miles (about 800 or so) I will change out the oil until it starts to come out as clean as I put it in... when I drained out the Havoline it was already gray/black/nasty/chunky looking and that synthetic oil barely had 800 miles on it
Thanks, I was going to use 10w fork oil but haven't found any locally yet. I'll more than likely go with the synthetic ATF for the first oil change. My last off road trip I bottomed out the forks a few times.
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Old 02-24-2017, 11:52 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
Thanks, I was going to use 10w fork oil but haven't found any locally yet. I'll more than likely go with the synthetic ATF for the first oil change. My last off road trip I bottomed out the forks a few times.
You'll find your preference. I like the 10W Bel Ray but again, personal preference. ATF works.
I always ran 220 cc's in my standard CB forks and it worked fine. I'm 210 lbs currently. You may want to start with 200, then add 10cc's each from there to your liking.

Also, if there's too much sink or it's too spongy after you change the fluid with the proper amount, you can run a couple pieces of 1/2" PVC (start with an inch) on top of each fork spring to stiffen them up a bit. The one upside of standard forks over USD.
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Old 02-24-2017, 12:37 PM   #14
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
Thanks, I was going to use 10w fork oil but haven't found any locally yet. I'll more than likely go with the synthetic ATF for the first oil change. My last off road trip I bottomed out the forks a few times.
A lot of folks have been happy with Dexron ATF for the front forks. The stuff that is in the forks from the factory is as much a rust preventative as a fork oil. Dexron is MUCH better.


 
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Old 02-24-2017, 04:49 PM   #15
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I finally got a chance to put some miles on it.
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