new hawk 250 issues

[thehawk]

regarding the rear wheel seal, is this the seal or a bearing? if I am going to the trouble to remove the wheel to straighten this thing, is it better to replace it with a racing one? or at least a new one? or should it do fine just to straighten this one?

[thehawk]

Ok, time to get busy on this. I got some gear oil to soak the chain, I think. On the bottle it says gear lubricant 75W-90 by supertech. Is this the correct oil? If not I can always return to Walmart as its not opened. I was looking at changing the chain to be safe, but can not find it. I did find a site that had something called a 428SO-130 but they were no longer selling it. What is an o-ring chain? and is that recommended for this bike in comparison to what is already installed?

For $34 the mikuni sounds the way to go. I found one from the hawk250.com site. If the 1.5 turn doesn't work out well, I will order one and go from there.

I'm thinking if good rear bearings are only like $10 I am going to go ahead and change them rather than risk it. What bearings would be good to put in here? (how do I know it will fit? is there a recommended part number? size? etc)

For greasing the pivots/swing arm, do I need a special grease gun? what grease do I use, WalMart had several different types. (Multi-duty, general purpose, poly lithium, marine, etc). they also had hi-temp in a round tub.

Megadan, the screw you are talking about, is it inside the carborator? I think I want to try this 1.5 turn prior to changing the carb. Do I need to remove the carb to do it? anything to be careful of while doing this?

As for the assembly fee, I tried and asked for a refund but that didn't work so well. I didn't think it would because after receiving this bike, I first called the seller with the questions. The lady who answered the phone was nice, the shop manager was nasty. The lady asked me to send pictures, I sent those I sent to this site and a few more, and then the shop manager called me back. Rather than assisting, he berated me. His answer from the get go, (before even asking me what was wrong) was " It was in perfect shape when it left here so you broke it not us". I had to listen to his ranting about people like me always trying to get more and never be happy for like 15 minutes before I could even say (do you even know what's wrong with the bike and the reason I called?). It's even supposed to have a warranty from this company, good luck with that! Kept referring to it's people like me who always want more, and those that pay 1900-2000 for this bike never had problems. I should have paid more, etc. reminding him that it is 1399 on his web site and I did pay more than that did nothing to ease his criticism. But that's a story for another time.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by thehawk

Ok, time to get busy on this. I got some gear oil to soak the chain, I think. On the bottle it says gear lubricant 75W-90 by supertech. Is this the correct oil? If not I can always return to Walmart as its not opened. I was looking at changing the chain to be safe, but can not find it. I did find a site that had something called a 428SO-130 but they were no longer selling it. What is an o-ring chain? and is that recommended for this bike in comparison to what is already installed?

For $34 the mikuni sounds the way to go. I found one from the hawk250.com site. If the 1.5 turn doesn't work out well, I will order one and go from there.

I'm thinking if good rear bearings are only like $10 I am going to go ahead and change them rather than risk it. What bearings would be good to put in here? (how do I know it will fit? is there a recommended part number? size? etc)

For greasing the pivots/swing arm, do I need a special grease gun? what grease do I use, WalMart had several different types. (Multi-duty, general purpose, poly lithium, marine, etc). they also had hi-temp in a round tub.

Megadan, the screw you are talking about, is it inside the carborator? I think I want to try this 1.5 turn prior to changing the carb. Do I need to remove the carb to do it? anything to be careful of while doing this?

As for the assembly fee, I tried and asked for a refund but that didn't work so well. I didn't think it would because after receiving this bike, I first called the seller with the questions. The lady who answered the phone was nice, the shop manager was nasty. The lady asked me to send pictures, I sent those I sent to this site and a few more, and then the shop manager called me back. Rather than assisting, he berated me. His answer from the get go, (before even asking me what was wrong) was " It was in perfect shape when it left here so you broke it not us". I had to listen to his ranting about people like me always trying to get more and never be happy for like 15 minutes before I could even say (do you even know what's wrong with the bike and the reason I called?). It's even supposed to have a warranty from this company, good luck with that! Kept referring to it's people like me who always want more, and those that pay 1900-2000 for this bike never had problems. I should have paid more, etc. reminding him that it is 1399 on his web site and I did pay more than that did nothing to ease his criticism. But that's a story for another time.

First, the part number is written right on the bearings. If in doubt, take out the old bearings and go to a bearing shop, they'll have replacements. Chinese quality control is not where it should be yet, so I would only buy bearings made in Japan, England, Germany, Italy, or the USA. Grease. Use marine grease, it does not wash out from water intrusion. I would soak the chain in kerosene to get the old grease out of it. Then hang it up and let it dry, or as dry as it gets overnight, then cook the chain in a pan of hot oil for a couple of hours. The oil you got is fine, but I used to buy 240 weight gear oil, commonly used in Model 'A' Ford steering boxes, for chain lube before I learned the canning wax method. If you decide to get a different chain, juat google up "UniBear Chain", and it, along with other quality chains will come up. They are available on Amazon, and other places. O-ring chains cost three times as much as high quality regular chain. A well lubed chain will last many thousands of miles....ARH

[thehawk]

On the bearings, any way to find the size without ripping it apart so that I can order it and have it on hand prior to ripping it apart? I don't want to leave a half assembled bike in the parking lot.
As for the chain, I did a search for uni-bear chains, and found two things. the first is that unibear is made by a chinese company named Hangzhou, the second is that there is the 428H or the 530. The 428H looks to be the non-o ring type. They are all different link numbers though. I am guessing that is the size? I saw where someone had recommend the 428H 130 link but I can't find one of those. The closest I could find was the 132 link. I also found a 136. How do I know what size I need?
They are very cheap though, like $15 for the 428H. If I get one of these, do I need to do the Kerosene/hot oil cooking? or do they need it as well?

[JerryHawk250]

428h 130 link is what you need. You can get longer and cut it to the length you need.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by thehawk

On the bearings, any way to find the size without ripping it apart so that I can order it and have it on hand prior to ripping it apart? I don't want to leave a half assembled bike in the parking lot.
As for the chain, I did a search for uni-bear chains, and found two things. the first is that unibear is made by a chinese company named Hangzhou, the second is that there is the 428H or the 530. The 428H looks to be the non-o ring type. They are all different link numbers though. I am guessing that is the size? I saw where someone had recommend the 428H 130 link but I can't find one of those. The closest I could find was the 132 link. I also found a 136. How do I know what size I need?
They are very cheap though, like $15 for the 428H. If I get one of these, do I need to do the Kerosene/hot oil cooking? or do they need it as well?

Megadan replaced his rear wheel bearings, I'm sure he knows the numbers. Maybe he'll chime in on here and give you the numbers. UniBear is good chain. Plenty of guys on here have been running it, some for two years with no reported problems. Grease both axles, and the swing arm pivot bolt with marine grease, and grease the steering head bearings as soon as you get time....ARH

[Megadan]

Rear bearings are 6302-2rs.

If you go to Hawk Talk, page 60, bottom post. Wamey linked to both front and rear bearings on All Balls Racing. You can either order 2 there, or take those numbers to any place that carries bearings and get them that way.

[thehawk]

anyone have any tips on how to re-route the clutch cable so it doesn't get pinched when turning? that and the speedometer cable which looks like its gonna get tangled in the horn?

[thehawk]

Megadan, Thank you. I appreciate it. I will get 2 of those ordered.

How did you route your speedometer cable? mine looks like its gonna get hooked on the horn when turning.

My clutch also had problems and was getting pinched between the two turn stoppers (on the frame, and fork). But I ran it behind the horn and now it doesn't look like its gonna get pinched any more.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by thehawk

How did you route your speedometer cable? mine looks like its gonna get hooked on the horn when turning.
.

I didn't route mine. I installed the digitl tach cluster when I first assembled my bike. It uses a speed sensor in place of the cable and drive unit.

[BlackBike]

https://www.google.com/search?q=6302...w=1024&bih=768

Also if your city has industry , most times you can find these guys that will carry all kinds of crazy bearings. Usually have counter sales. https://www.motionindustries.com/pro...alogSearch.jsp

[Megadan]

If not All Balls, then I recommend Nachi, FAG, Korean or Taiwan made Timkens or SKF from Germany or Taiwan. Or any other German, Japanese, UK, or U.S. made bearings. These will all be made from better materials and to much higher QA standards. Anything else is a gamble

[timcosby]

mine caught on the horn while ridding..talk about makeing you pucker! zip tie and no more catchy

[thehawk]

Tomorrow i am going to put the idle screw to 1.5 turns as suggested. Do i need to remove the carb to do this? Or can i do it with it installed?

[timcosby]

Originally Posted by thehawk

Tomorrow i am going to put the idle screw to 1.5 turns as suggested. Do i need to remove the carb to do this? Or can i do it with it installed?

its on the bottom so its hard to see. if you want to bend a small screwdriver in a 90 degree bend and probably cut it off short like an allen wrench you could do it but its just easier to take off. only takes five minutes at most.