My new true blue KPX

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by Boatguy

I knew it!!! Never getting one. Ha ha ha.

The 2022 Lifan Rainmaker

So far the only significant quibble I have with the bike is the difficulty of inserting a feeler gauge into the intake valve. I will try doing so next time with the specific blade gripped by a needle-nose pliers. My feeler gauge set is held together by a simple screw and nut. I have not found any angled feeler gauges that have a blade thin enough for these specs.

I'm thinking people in drought-affected areas should be buying these.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by jeffrey

I looked up feeler gauges on a stick and found them from Motion pro. I saw these mentiond on Thumper talk used to adjust the valves on a Honda XR200 for the intake valve. Sorry I cant post links I dont know how.

I remember you mentioned in Jerry's KPX thread that it might be necessary to remove the upper engine mount. Turns out what probably needs to be removed is the throttle cable mechanism from the throttle body. We'll see how Jerry does when he tackles the valve check.

Posting a link is usually a simple copy and paste. Highlight the link with the left mouse button (or hold down the left button and drag it across the link), tap the right mouse button, select Copy, and then put it where you want with the right mouse button and Paste.

[TominMO]

I'm gonna hold off on an oil cooler until next year, if I decide to do it. It's not so hot now, and I'm still running 10w40. Next May I will switch to 20w50 and see if that is good enough to help keep it cool. I'm not actually sure that switching to a heavier oil even makes a difference though.

[4T_Goblin]

Originally Posted by TominMO

I'm gonna hold off on an oil cooler until next year, if I decide to do it. It's not so hot now, and I'm still running 10w40. Next May I will switch to 20w50 and see if that is good enough to help keep it cool. I'm not actually sure that switching to a heavier oil even makes a difference though.

I just pulled the trigger on an oil cooler but like you I'm not sure I need it. I am rebuilding my Vader into a 141bbk so maybe I'll throw the cooler on that.

[TominMO]

Successful 14T sprocket install! JTF270.14. Also available are 13T and 12T versions.

Got it on there and decided to leave it on. My main concern was clearance between the teeth and the swingarm pivot. Clearance is about .050" with the 14T, a bit more than the spark plug gap. No issue at all on the front side, loads of room. The 14T is as big as you can go though, because of the rear clearance.

You can use the stock chain even, and here is how to get it on there most easily.
1. Remove the front sprocket cover, two 8mm screws.
2. Loosen the two sprocket bolts, 10mm.
3. Loosen the rear axle nut. Also, use two 13mm wrenches (one from the tool kit) to tighten the chain adjuster locking nut to the head of the adjuster screw, on both sides. Might be able to use a needle nose pliers in place of one 13mm wrench.
4. Lift the rear of the bike to get the wheel off the ground.
5. Remove the rear axle nut, and gently drive the axle to the left side, maybe 1/2" or so. What you want to achieve is enough room to push the left side adjuster out past the swingarm so it is no longer in the way. This will let you push the axle all the way forward on the left side, to give you enough clearance for the larger front sprocket.
6. Remove the 13T sprocket and install the 14T into the chain, making sure the rear wheel is all the way forward. This will be enough slack, but might be slightly difficult. Install the sprocket onto the splines, then the securing plate and bolts, somewhat snug. These will be tightened when you get the rear wheel back on the ground. I recommend blue Loctite here.
7. Move the axle back on the left to get the adjuster back in there. With the screw all the way in and the nut up against it, there should be enough room to make it happen. I left it like this, and with the wheel on the ground and me on the bike, the chain was just very slightly loose. Good enough for me. I will go for a ride tmw and see if everything is fine, and adjust it a little tighter if needed.
8. Tighten the rear axle nut snug enough to hold it in place. Re-check axle alignment by measuring the distance between the swingarm pivot bolt and the axle bolt. Should get the exact same number on both sides. Readjust if necessary. Then tighten the axle bolt to between 43 - 58 ft-lbs. (I use blue Loctite here too.) Do a final measurement of the two sides.
9. Lower the wheel and tighten the front sprocket bolts. Reinstall the cover.

I love these new adjusters. They allow you to swap sprockets and keep the same chain, most of the time. Notice how there is a thick end and a thin end. This is what gives you a long travel for the adjuster.

To buy a specific size on Amazon, do the search on that size, such as JTF270.14. Also the 13T and 12T are available.

[TominMO]

Sprocket ratios

.........12........13........14
30.....2.50.....2.31.....2.14
32.....2.67.....2.46.....2.29
33.....2.75.....2.54.....2.36
35.....2.92.....2.69.....2.50
38.....3.17.....2.92.....2.71
39.....3.25.....3.00.....2.79
40.....3.33.....3.08.....2.86
42.....3.50.....3.23.....3.00 stock

[TominMO]

Took it out to try out the 14T front sprocket.

Shifting from 1st to 2nd happened between 15 - 20 mph, and both gears have plenty of pull.

From a standing start at a stop sign, I then took it up a steep grade on a two-lane highway and got to 65 mph at the top, in 6th.

On the way out, I passed one of those police radar trailers that tells you your speed, to get you to slow down. An indicated 30 was actually 27 according to the radar.

[TominMO]

While riding yesterday, I could hear a slight squeaky rubbing noise when coasting at low speed. Since the only thing I did to the bike was stick on a larger front sprocket, I figured it was the upper chain guard. Checked this morning, and sure enough, at the front inside of the guard where it indents to clear the tire, there was an obvious rub mark. About 20 seconds with the Dremel diamond cutoff wheel fixed that.

[letsride]

Take the flimsy POS chain guard off and throw it in the trash, its worthless and useless. Think about it, just what is it gonna "GUARD" if the chain fly's off? Absolutely NOTHING thats what. Mine was aggravating me, I adjusted it a few times but its so damn flimsy it just flopped around still contacting the chain, so its outta here. On another note I just got back from riding my KPX, such a nice bike. Oh and thanks for the sprocket info I'll be ordering one soon, I would like her to be a little less high strung on the road. I may drop down to a 40 tooth on the rear too, and upgrade the chain.

[TominMO]

The main and maybe only benefit is preventing chain lube from slinging up onto the bike from the rear sprocket. I don't see much benefit from the lower chain guard, unless you drop the bike, or twigs etc off-road. I've considered removing both chain guards and the rear footpegs for a cleaner look. The rear footpegs do act as semi-useful crash bars in case you lay it over. And the loops also serve as a bungee attachment for stuff you have on your seat.

A 14/40 combo raises gearing about 13% from stock, which is probably perfect for all-around street riding. Keeping a 12 handy for offroad to use with the 40 would actually give you lower gearing than stock. So 12 + 14 with the 40. And it will all work with the 108 link chain. For the 12/40 combo you might have to flip the adjuster blocks to the longer position. A gold o-ring or x-ring chain would look sharp.

[TominMO]

Pics of my new removable top box and its base. The box does look a bit out of place IMO, but is super-useful. When it's not on the bike, there is this also super-useful base, far larger than the bike's rack. If you don't need a removable option, there is a $36 version that stays bolted to the bike. I went to Ace Hardware and got SS 1/4x20 fasteners, including nylock nuts, to replace the stock thinner zinc-coated fasteners, which just looked OK.

Removable box
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KCC8TJN...roduct_details

$36 box
https://www.amazon.com/LIOOBO-Motorc...%2C111&sr=1-29

[TominMO]

The oil filter writeup.

The KPX now has 90 miles on it, so I decided to change the oil again and check out the filter. I had changed the oil on the day I bought it, after putting 7 miles on it, but didn't go into the filter.

Four 8mm screws hold the filter cover on. The holes are spaced so that you can only put the cover on one way. I had to gently pry the cover off with a flat screwdriver and tapping, but I doubt that was necessary. Just twisting the cover might have been enough to break it loose. (Edit: it is.) What is holding it on are two O-rings. The rubber grommet on the filter fits onto the cover.

To my surprise, the filter is a permanent one with a very fine mesh screen. But this makes sense, given that Lifan primarily sells to the Asian market, and not everyone has the money for maintenance.

The screen had stopped a significant amount of tiny metal particles, which were magnetic. So it is definitely doing its job. Perhaps a paper filter would do better, but IDK really. (Tip: If you are using a magnet to pick up tiny particles, put a piece of paper towel on the magnet and pick the particles up that way. No need to get all those particles off the magnet.)

Pic 1 is the cover, the aftermarket pleated paper filter, and the stock mesh filter.
Pic 2 shows the stock filter closer up.
Pic 3 shows the hole down inside the paper filter--which the stock filter does not have.

Here is the Amazon link for the 10-pack of filters I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/Physeed-Repla...s%2C100&sr=8-4

Here is a metal reusable 112 filter on Amazon. It has the internal hole, and is pleated.
https://www.amazon.com/APE-RACING-Mo...s%2C87&sr=8-15

So my question now is, will the paper filter do a better job, and for that matter, will it work at all? It does fit onto the cover and into the housing, same as the stock one. But the little hole inside concerns me. Will how it functions be different from the stock one that has no inner hole? Will this flow oil properly or grenade my motor?

For now I have cleaned and reinstalled the stock element, and am waiting for an answer from a tech guy. Can any of you answer this question, based on having gone through this already?

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by TominMO

Pics of my new removable top box and its base. The box does look a bit out of place IMO, but is super-useful. When it's not on the bike, there is this also super-useful base, far larger than the bike's rack. If you don't need a removable option, there is a $36 version that stays bolted to the bike. I went to Ace Hardware and got SS 1/4x20 fasteners, including nylock nuts, to replace the stock thinner zinc-coated fasteners, which just looked OK.

Removable box
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KCC8TJN...roduct_details

$36 box
https://www.amazon.com/LIOOBO-Motorc...%2C111&sr=1-29

I have that same trunk on my Hawk. I actually installed LED light strips for brake and turn signals to grab the idiot texter playing with there phones attention behind me.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by TominMO

The oil filter writeup.

The KPX now has 90 miles on it, so I decided to change the oil again and check out the filter. I had changed the oil on the day I bought it, after putting 7 miles on it, but didn't go into the filter.

Four 8mm screws hold the filter cover on. The holes are spaced so that you can only put the cover on one way. I had to gently pry the cover off with a flat screwdriver and tapping, but I doubt that was necessary. Just twisting the cover might have been enough to break it loose. What is holding it on are two O-rings. The rubber grommet on the filter fits onto the cover.

To my surprise, the filter is a permanent one with a very fine mesh screen. But this makes sense, given that Lifan primarily sells to the Asian market, and not everyone has the money for maintenance.

The screen had stopped a significant amount of tiny metal particles, which were magnetic. So it is definitely doing its job. Perhaps a paper filter would do better, but IDK really. (Tip: If you are using a magnet to pick up tiny particles, put a piece of paper towel on the magnet and pick the particles up that way. No need to get all those particles off the magnet.)

Pic 1 is the cover, the aftermarket pleated paper filter, and the stock mesh filter.
Pic 2 shows the stock filter closer up.
Pic 3 shows the hole down inside the paper filter--which the stock filter does not have.

Here is the Amazon link for the 10-pack of filters I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/Physeed-Repla...s%2C100&sr=8-4

Here is a metal reusable 112 filter on Amazon. It has the internal hole, and is pleated.
https://www.amazon.com/APE-RACING-Mo...s%2C87&sr=8-15

So my question now is, will the paper filter do a better job, and for that matter, will it work at all? It does fit onto the cover and into the housing, same as the stock one. But the little hole inside concerns me. Will how it functions be different from the stock one that has no inner hole? Will this flow oil properly or grenade my motor?

For now I have cleaned and reinstalled the stock element, and am waiting for an answer from a tech guy. Can any of you answer this question, based on having gone through this already?

So basically the stock filter is a reusable filter. I guess i would of figured that out on my first oil change. If only the rain Gods would stop the rain long enough to get some miles on the KPX. The 10 day forecast doesn't look too promising.

[TominMO]

OK, more oil filter OCD shenanigans--I mean, scientific research.

Did a bunch of research on the webs, and have determined (i.e. best guess) that any 112 form factor oil filter will work. The center hole I was worried about is not an issue, just a design variance.

So I went out and bought what was locally available--an STP and a Wix. Both came with the rubber O-ring. (We will not use the O-ring: it is for some other applications.)

Stats:
Brand........Model #....Made In......Cost......Spot Welds on Bottom
STP...........S6015.......China..........$6.50.... 4
Wix............24944.......Poland........$12...... .6
K&N..........KN-112.....unknown.....$11........4
Chinese....112............China..........$2....... ..2, but larger
generic

On the STP box was cross-reference info with other brands.
K&N..KN-112...........Purolator..ML16815...........Fram..C H6015...........Champ..P7013

Notes:
From the pics I have seen, the STP, Purolator and Fram all look the same.
The Wix stands out with thicker paper and a heavier-duty rubber grommet.
The bottom spot welds let me know that the K&N and the generic Chinese one (same product, many names) are not the same item. The Chinese one does seem solidly built.

Pic 1 shows the Chinese, STP and Wix filters.
Pic 2 shows the bottom welds.
Pic 3 shows the Chinese filter cut open. They all have the same design inside.

I suspect any of these filters does a better job than the stock reuseable one. I am going to try the Wix.