Paladin 300 possible dead fuel pump

[Mumen Rider]

Come on man, don't bring politics into this. Trump being elected has NOTHING to do with shipping times.

[Thumper]

I thought tariffs are paid by the importer of record, at customs, not the manufacturer in the country of origin. The importer might be ordering parts, like a domestic auto manufacturer buying relays or windshield wiper motors, or could be a big box store getting finished clothes washers or dryers ready to sell. Cell phones, toasters, microwave ovens, whatnot, the importer pays the tariffs and the increase is usually just passed to the consumer. I think the idea is that the higher prices encourage the consumer to choose the product made in the USA.

That is, the manufacturer of origin probably suffers lower sales since their stuff costs more, but they don't pay the tariff. Big box store just charges more for the BBQ grill, wheel barrow or whatever.

You can check me on this, but I think this is how it works. I don't think you can collect taxes directly from a manufacturer like Kia or Fiat. Maybe the importer can ask the manufacturer to pay all or part of the tax. Not sure if that ever happens. I guess it would have to be a contractual arrangement with the buyer, and might make the contract too expensive for production.

Regarding individual sales like buying a bike directly from the manufacturer thru the internet, I think the individual might have to pay for the shipping AND the import tax. If you buy from a domestic distributor like MaxPro, they would pay the import tax, likely increase the price of the bike to compensate.

The import taxes on Japanese motorcycles in the mid-80's were circumvented by new models under 750cc. Remember that? You could buy a Suzuki 4 cylinder 700ES!

[bigdano711]

I honestly don't know. I just saw him on Rogan talking about how he loves the word tariff. Then I noticed shipping times increase, but that could be due to the fact that I live in Podunk, WY. When it comes to business, I can't tell the difference between a business man and a confidence man.

[Thumper]

I do not know for certain if my fuel pump is failing. I can hear it before I start the bike, but not when it is running. The crapping out and failure to idle could be the fuel pump.
I posted this earlier in this thread
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...9&postcount=22

Here it is still mounted to the tank:



It wouldn't make sense to try and run it while it is dry (maybe not even good for it), so I will wait until I get it all back together and try powering it with a 12V source (ignition off) if it keeps stalling and refusing to idle. Replacing the pump can be done without even removing the tank, and I wanted to inspect it while I was checking the valves and replacing the spark plug.

I found no kinks in the fuel line, no reason for the problem. I hope it is just the fuel pump. It would be an easy fix and a replacment is on the way, hopefully within a few weeks





I can't find any fuel pumps that look anything like this online. MaxPro has ordered a replacement. I guess I am getting a crash course in EFI troubleshooting.

[Thumper]

One other thing... I did remove the restriction tip and left it off becasue it sounds so much better. I will put that back on for the testing after reassembly. I doubt it is enough to make a difference, and I will replace it with a Fisch moto spark arrestor at some point.

When it starts to stall and fails again I will move onto TPS, injector, temp sensor. This is a fairly simple injection system. Maybe the map needs a reflash.

[Aussie_in_MO]

Thumper, that's about what I expected to see with it out of the tank.
There's 2 plastic tabs on each side of the main housing that you could pry on and the upper piece of plastic will come off to expose the metal pump housing.
Fella could probably find some markings on that metal housing or pull some measurements and find a replacement that could be dropped into the housing.
Would require a bit of soldering to reconnect the wires but the actual pump is definitely going to be an off the shelf part

[Thumper]

I was thinking that it could be just a partially blocked injector. The symptoms make sense and this happened within 40 miles of first start. There's no filter after the pump. I can add one.

I wish I had a new injector to swap out

[onthefly]

Originally Posted by Thumper

I was thinking that it could be just a partially blocked injector. The symptoms make sense and this happened within 40 miles of first start. There's no filter after the pump. I can add one.

I wish I had a new injector to swap out

Maybe cleaning it would be worth a shot. This short has a good idea with the valve stem https://youtube.com/shorts/ed1tMS66-...N7cr7qN_gvPbx-

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by onthefly

Maybe cleaning it would be worth a shot. This short has a good idea with the valve stem https://youtube.com/shorts/ed1tMS66-...N7cr7qN_gvPbx-

Thanks. Actually, I had in mind to flush it in reverse. These holes are TINY! If there is some flotsum in there, it won't flush through.



It was very easy to remove the injector. The fuel supply has exactly the same pinch connect as it has at the tank, and the 12V connector is held in place with a bale that is easily pried off. A single 4mm allen bolt secures it to the throttle body.



A long allen wrench gets to the 4mm bolt through the frame. One with a universal round end is best.



I do have carb cleaner and I can power the gate with 12V to at least let it drain, but I won't get that kind of stream!!

I sure wish I had a spare new injector for a quick test.

Part # is MEV7-053. It makes a nice solid click when powered, so I am sure the gate is working.

All I can find so far is other MEV7 injectors with different ports/connectors. Please let us know if you find a MEV7-053 4 hole injector.

[onthefly]

I see what you mean! Those are tiny! I'm running into the same issue in searching. All of the ones I'm finding are 1-3 holes instead of 4 : /

[Aussie_in_MO]

Down here where I live the performance/speed shops will clean and flow test injectors for around $12.00 each.
Could be worth finding a local shop up in the KC area and have them throw it on the bench? https://www.tmsauto.com/fuel-injection-service/

I've cleaned and flow tested injectors myself at home with some simple Arduino code and a spare high pressure pump. But it was pretty sketchy and messy without the right equipment

[Thumper]

I was able to do a back flow carb cleaner rinse with the injector activated (open) with aligator clamps powering from the bike's battery. It went well. The on/off click is distinct and flow clearly opens up.

I did hear the fuel pump when I turned on the key, and it cycled out as it produced pressure. Seemed normal. Also, when cold, it started easily and ran OK briefly before it began to stall and misbehave.

There is a TPS and what appears to be a second sensor on the throttle body that is likely sensing some aspect of air flow (pressure?). And then there is the control module itself. I think the temperature sensor is on the cylinder, appears to be exposed to coolant. One of these things is not operating properly. I have a new fuel pump on the way, but that will take some time.

The fact that the torch spark plug was sooty tells me it might be too much fuel at idle, not air. And it blew some barely visible smoke when I was able to restart it after stalling (needed ~1/4 throttle or more). It was burning excess fuel! I did replace that plug with a new NGK plug. I am leaning towards a sensor or the control module as culprit now. The pump whines as it should, and the injector is opening and closing. MAYBE I cleared it up with the injector flush, but I am a bit skeptical that was even needed.

I need a tube of gasoline resistant RTV to mount the pump back on the tank and at that point I will test it.