11-04-2017, 12:54 PM | #31 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 62
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regarding the rear wheel seal, is this the seal or a bearing? if I am going to the trouble to remove the wheel to straighten this thing, is it better to replace it with a racing one? or at least a new one? or should it do fine just to straighten this one?
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11-04-2017, 03:59 PM | #32 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
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11-04-2017, 08:01 PM | #33 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Sporadic/unstable idle speed is a condition of idle mixture either being too lean or too rich. As ARH mentioned, if the throttle operates correctly, then this is most likely your culprit. These bikes don't come tuned very well from the factory unless you live at high altitude, and tend to be on the lean side of things. This will cause the idle to "hover" at higher RPM's when coming off the throttle, and then it will eventually drop, and then proceed to hunt trying to equilize.
The standard approach to setting your idle mixture screw is to turn the screw in, and count the number of turns or half turns until it just lightly seats/stops. Make a note of that somewhere just in case you need a known "running" starting point. From there, 1. turn the idle screw out 1 1/2 turns. This is the middle ground between 0 turns and 3. Install the carb back on the bike. 2. start the bike, then ride it around for say 10-ish minutes and get it up to temp. bring it back home. 3. set your idle speed, preferably with a tach to 1500 rpm 4. This is the tricky part because of where our idle mixture screws are located, but it is doable. a) turn the pilot screw out a half turn at a time until you hear the idle drop. During this procedure you may hear the RPM's rise, this is a good thing. Keep turning half a turn at a time until you notice the rpms drop. b) Turn the mixture screw back in a half a turn at a time until you find the position with the highest and most stable RPM. c) Re-adjust the idle if necessary back to where you started. If the idle is stable at this point you can call it good. If it is still a bit unsteady you can repeat this process by turning the mixture screw a quarter of a turn in or out at a time (giving the idle a chance to stabilize) until you again find the highest and most stable rpm. d) At this point you should have a good stable idle. You can go into even finer tuning if you desire, giving the screw 1/8th turns, but this usually isn't necessary on most bikes/carb setups. The key in this entire process is to always keep a note of how many turns you have on that mixture screw. I.E.: If you start at 1 1/2 turns, and turn it out 1/2 a turn and the idle drops, you are at 2 turns out. Back it off half a turn, you are back to 1 1/2 turns. Also, this is just one method, and there are variations of this method out there, but the end results are very similar. 2 things to keep in mind if you want to go through all of this. 1, it's a good idea to have a fan flowing on the engine to help keep it cool. If you feel the engine may be getting too hot, shut it off for a few minutes or so and let it cool. Just don't let it get cold, or you will have to wait for it to warm up again. 2. Before you dive in head first with all of this, see how it simply runs at 1 1/2 turns out. You may find that it holds a steady idle right where it is. There are many Hawk owners that have simply set the stock carb to this position and it has worked for them with no need for further adjustment.
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11-05-2017, 11:42 AM | #34 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 62
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Ok, time to get busy on this. I got some gear oil to soak the chain, I think. On the bottle it says gear lubricant 75W-90 by supertech. Is this the correct oil? If not I can always return to Walmart as its not opened. I was looking at changing the chain to be safe, but can not find it. I did find a site that had something called a 428SO-130 but they were no longer selling it. What is an o-ring chain? and is that recommended for this bike in comparison to what is already installed?
For $34 the mikuni sounds the way to go. I found one from the hawk250.com site. If the 1.5 turn doesn't work out well, I will order one and go from there. I'm thinking if good rear bearings are only like $10 I am going to go ahead and change them rather than risk it. What bearings would be good to put in here? (how do I know it will fit? is there a recommended part number? size? etc) For greasing the pivots/swing arm, do I need a special grease gun? what grease do I use, WalMart had several different types. (Multi-duty, general purpose, poly lithium, marine, etc). they also had hi-temp in a round tub. Megadan, the screw you are talking about, is it inside the carborator? I think I want to try this 1.5 turn prior to changing the carb. Do I need to remove the carb to do it? anything to be careful of while doing this? As for the assembly fee, I tried and asked for a refund but that didn't work so well. I didn't think it would because after receiving this bike, I first called the seller with the questions. The lady who answered the phone was nice, the shop manager was nasty. The lady asked me to send pictures, I sent those I sent to this site and a few more, and then the shop manager called me back. Rather than assisting, he berated me. His answer from the get go, (before even asking me what was wrong) was " It was in perfect shape when it left here so you broke it not us". I had to listen to his ranting about people like me always trying to get more and never be happy for like 15 minutes before I could even say (do you even know what's wrong with the bike and the reason I called?). It's even supposed to have a warranty from this company, good luck with that! Kept referring to it's people like me who always want more, and those that pay 1900-2000 for this bike never had problems. I should have paid more, etc. reminding him that it is 1399 on his web site and I did pay more than that did nothing to ease his criticism. But that's a story for another time. |
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11-05-2017, 12:22 PM | #35 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
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11-05-2017, 02:33 PM | #36 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 62
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On the bearings, any way to find the size without ripping it apart so that I can order it and have it on hand prior to ripping it apart? I don't want to leave a half assembled bike in the parking lot.
As for the chain, I did a search for uni-bear chains, and found two things. the first is that unibear is made by a chinese company named Hangzhou, the second is that there is the 428H or the 530. The 428H looks to be the non-o ring type. They are all different link numbers though. I am guessing that is the size? I saw where someone had recommend the 428H 130 link but I can't find one of those. The closest I could find was the 132 link. I also found a 136. How do I know what size I need? They are very cheap though, like $15 for the 428H. If I get one of these, do I need to do the Kerosene/hot oil cooking? or do they need it as well? |
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11-05-2017, 02:37 PM | #37 |
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Houma, La.
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428h 130 link is what you need. You can get longer and cut it to the length you need.
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11-05-2017, 05:04 PM | #38 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 62
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anyone have any tips on how to re-route the clutch cable so it doesn't get pinched when turning? that and the speedometer cable which looks like its gonna get tangled in the horn?
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11-05-2017, 05:36 PM | #39 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
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11-05-2017, 07:31 PM | #40 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Rear bearings are 6302-2rs.
If you go to Hawk Talk, page 60, bottom post. Wamey linked to both front and rear bearings on All Balls Racing. You can either order 2 there, or take those numbers to any place that carries bearings and get them that way.
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11-05-2017, 09:01 PM | #41 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 62
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Megadan, Thank you. I appreciate it. I will get 2 of those ordered.
How did you route your speedometer cable? mine looks like its gonna get hooked on the horn when turning. My clutch also had problems and was getting pinched between the two turn stoppers (on the frame, and fork). But I ran it behind the horn and now it doesn't look like its gonna get pinched any more. |
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11-05-2017, 09:40 PM | #42 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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I didn't route mine. I installed the digitl tach cluster when I first assembled my bike. It uses a speed sensor in place of the cable and drive unit.
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11-05-2017, 10:03 PM | #43 |
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: George West, Texas
Posts: 4,097
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These ones?
https://www.google.com/search?q=6302...w=1024&bih=768
Also if your city has industry , most times you can find these guys that will carry all kinds of crazy bearings. Usually have counter sales. https://www.motionindustries.com/pro...alogSearch.jsp
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11-05-2017, 11:14 PM | #44 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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If not All Balls, then I recommend Nachi, FAG, Korean or Taiwan made Timkens or SKF from Germany or Taiwan. Or any other German, Japanese, UK, or U.S. made bearings. These will all be made from better materials and to much higher QA standards. Anything else is a gamble
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11-05-2017, 11:56 PM | #45 |
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: robertsdale alabama usa
Posts: 1,007
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mine caught on the horn while ridding..talk about makeing you pucker! zip tie and no more catchy
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