RX3 ECU Remap help.

[Lukas]

So, if you grind it down you can put it on safely.

[ChopperCharles]

I could have, but I had already compressed the head gasket and the seller didn't have any extras. Nor did he have any extra kits in the US. So I just got my money back.

Charles.

[Lukas]

I got the last item, this brake disc is huge

[Working_ZS]

Are those the caliper spacers on the right, in the plastic bag? Plus, how much did you pay, and where did you source it from?

[Lukas]

yes it is the distance of the brake caliper, on aliexpress there is a chinese who downloads things I ask him for with tao bao or yoycarthttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...24d44c4dIZvLys

[Working_ZS]

Originally Posted by Lukas

yes it is the distance of the brake caliper, on aliexpress there is a chinese who downloads things I ask him for with tao bao or yoycarthttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...24d44c4dIZvLys

Good deal, thanks for the link. I just ordered one for my RX3, $135 US with shipping. The front brake is definitely the bikes one glaring deficiency, so far as road riding is concerned. Not a big deal in the dirt, but on the highway when I want to stop, I want to stop right now with minimal lever effort.

[Lukas]

Originally Posted by Working_ZS

Good deal, thanks for the link. I just ordered one for my RX3, $135 US with shipping. The front brake is definitely the bikes one glaring deficiency, so far as road riding is concerned. Not a big deal in the dirt, but on the highway when I want to stop, I want to stop right now with minimal lever effort.

You could have waited until I put on the disc, because the disc has two disadvantages first is a bad spacing of holes and the Chinese give other screws, but I put on their own stainless steel unfortunately this forces the alignment of the disc so that there is no runout second problem is the disc is thicker you have to put a washer under the ABS sensor and file the brake caliper, and yes it is ok I also put on the muffler without welding.

[Lukas]

Do you know any good tutorial to set up this cylinder and I forgot to tell you that in HOD ECU HACKER you do file patches, not file modifications which means in short that theoretically I can compare two files create a patch and make it available and anyone who will have the same firmware version can upload the patch and enjoy the new injection map for 249cc and 298cc both are the same only one has changed the cylinder calculation I wrote about this earlier I have 2 maps normal and highly modified but the highly modified one is too strong the bike runs out from under the ass already at 4000rpm but I am afraid it will destroy it and the normal one has a straightened intake curve so the bike runs nicely from the bottom of the cylinder of course

[Working_ZS]

Originally Posted by Lukas

You could have waited until I put on the disc, because the disc has two disadvantages first is a bad spacing of holes and the Chinese give other screws, but I put on their own stainless steel unfortunately this forces the alignment of the disc so that there is no runout second problem is the disc is thicker you have to put a washer under the ABS sensor and file the brake caliper, and yes it is ok I also put on the muffler without welding.

Don't worry, I'm accustomed to modifying parts to make them fit, so the disc issues shouldn't be too big of a problem. Good to know that I will need to source my own bolts; my RX3 is a 2015, so no ABS, which means I don't have to worry about sensor clearance issues.

[Working_ZS]

Originally Posted by Lukas

Do you know any good tutorial to set up this cylinder and I forgot to tell you that in HOD ECU HACKER you do file patches, not file modifications which means in short that theoretically I can compare two files create a patch and make it available and anyone who will have the same firmware version can upload the patch and enjoy the new injection map for 249cc and 298cc both are the same only one has changed the cylinder calculation I wrote about this earlier I have 2 maps normal and highly modified but the highly modified one is too strong the bike runs out from under the ass already at 4000rpm but I am afraid it will destroy it and the normal one has a straightened intake curve so the bike runs nicely from the bottom of the cylinder of course

Looking through my RX3 browser bookmarks, I don't see anything regarding tutorials for installing big bore kits and tuning the ECU to take advantage of it, so if you are inclined to make one, go ahead. I suspect that a lot of RX3 owners would find it useful; also feel free to post up how to info on your ECU flash patches.

The highly modified ECU patch sounds very interesting - the thought of any RX3 pulling too hard at 4000 RPM is hard to believe for most people who know the bike in its stock OEM form, and is something that I would love to see, though I agree, it probably is stressing the engine way too much to be practical on a bike meant to be ridden everyday for common purposes.

[Lukas]

As I was doing a patch 298cc I noticed that there is an option to compare bin files and I can see what oldschool tuning have modified in both maps I think that in the heavily modified I get a lot of fuel, because there is a strange sound of the engine as in a sports motorcycle and slowly comes down from revs in neutral I do not really want to change this cylinder and I put it off in time, but it is time to exhaust ready disc changed map ready just put the cylinder.

[Working_ZS]

Originally Posted by Lukas

Do you know any good tutorial to set up this cylinder...

Ok, apparently I lied - I found this thread here on ChinaRiders from back when the big bore kits first dropped and were the new hotness:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=21779

Hopefully it helps you.

[Lukas]

Thanks, but I don't think it's an rx3, but charlie was replacing I hope i don't have to pull the engine out.

[Working_ZS]

Originally Posted by Lukas

Thanks, but I don't think it's an rx3, but charlie was replacing I hope i don't have to pull the engine out.

If I recall correctly, you don't HAVE to pull the engine out, but if you do it goes a lot quicker. The hardest part of dropping the engine is accessing the back bolt, next to/behind the frame. If you keep it in, you'll need to remove the front subframe and still loosen the back engine mount bolts in order to tilt the engine forward for access to the top. Oh, and here is a link for the cylinder head replacement how to:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15545

Here's another link showing someone over on ADVRider who just dropped the whole front subframe with the engine attached:

https://advrider.com/f/threads/csc-2...#post-34745886

[Lukas]

I was thinking if it can be lowered do you think you need to pull the tank last time I did that the filter started pouring and I had to buy a new one, because the radiator is definitely to be pulled and thanks for your help because I really don't have the desire, especially since it's the end of the season and any additional knowledge will speed up the eventual replacement.