New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by AZRider

Disappointed that we didn't get to see you today Spud, we had a good ride and are headed to Hells Canyon tomorrow. It's a great and diverse group and they actually play well together. Just goes to show that the common bond of the Zong over comes any negative.

I'm glad you are having a good time. Say hello to everyone for me, and ride safely.

[woodlandsprite]

Thanks Gents for the shifting tips.
Took note and paid extra attention to the sound of the bike while out on my practice ride this weekend. Shifting seems to be going smoother now... And I'm officially on my 3rd tank of gas LOL

Overall practice riding is going okay but still not yet comfortable ranging much further afield from where I have been riding near my home. Since the last time, I figured I should make sure to get practice on quick stops in a local parkinglot. Managed to lock up the rear wheel a couple times during practice and definitely felt the bike squiggling about as a result. Smelled the burnt rubber, and noticed the straight line that was left behind in the parkinglot (oops).

Also had a bit of a panic when I felt like I was going into a turn too fast, tapped brakes, felt the bike wobble, backed off the brakes, grabbed the throttle and leaned the bike and it all stabilized out - but I clearly need to practice turns and cornering. Turning from a stop is going much better, as is turning at low speeds - but turning while I'm supposed to be keeping up with traffic generally wigs me out *sigh*

[Eco Mouse]

Never use the brakes in a turn, and if you need to turn tighter because you feel your turning arc is too shallow and you might not make it (or hit something) you need to just push harder on the handle bars. The bike can lean way over as long as you've got the momentum. Then throttle out!

(I'm assuming that you were taught that in order to go right, you push with your right. To go left you push with your left. Correct?) That's what I mean about pushing harder.

And about your shifting and knowing what gear they need to be in (without looking at the tach) is to "Be in the GRRRR" and when GRRRR turns into GHEEEEE, that's when you need to shift. It works for normal riding and spirited riding as well.

[woodlandsprite]

Originally Posted by Eco Mouse

Never use the brakes in a turn, and if you need to turn tighter because you feel your turning arc is too shallow and you might not make it (or hit something) you need to just push harder on the handle bars. The bike can lean way over as long as you've got the momentum. Then throttle out!

(I'm assuming that you were taught that in order to go right, you push with your right. To go left you push with your left. Correct?) That's what I mean about pushing harder.

Thanks EcoMouse
Yes, I'd been warned to not touch the brakes in a turn - car habits/bicycle habits are hard to break :P

And yes, I knew exactly what you were talking about on pushing harder - I remember receiving the same feedback while taking my MSF class - it really is a case I think of getting comfortable and confident on the bike and that it's not going to fall over while leaned in a turn

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Eco Mouse

...And about your shifting and knowing what gear they need to be in (without looking at the tach) is to "Be in the GRRRR" and when GRRRR turns into GHEEEEE, that's when you need to shift. It works for normal riding and spirited riding as well.

That is one of the best written explanations I have seen.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by woodlandsprite

Thanks EcoMouse
Yes, I'd been warned to not touch the brakes in a turn - car habits/bicycle habits are hard to break :P

And yes, I knew exactly what you were talking about on pushing harder - I remember receiving the same feedback while taking my BSF class - it really is a case I think of getting comfortable and confident on the bike and that it's not going to fall over while leaned in a turn

You were very wise to take the rider safety course; it is one of the best investment you will ever make.

Keep practicing the proper techniques you learned in the rider safety course, and you will continue to gain confidence.

[Eco Mouse]

Originally Posted by woodlandsprite

it really is a case I think of getting comfortable and confident on the bike and that it's not going to fall over while leaned in a turn

Watch some video of super motard racing, so you can get a feel of what's even possible on a smaller displacement bike. Notice the lean angles. (Ignore their feet, most of them are dirt bikers) With momentum in a corner your bike is a gyroscope. It will not fall over as long as there is sufficient grip on the tires. Gravel, sand, glass etc are the exception to the grip rule. Which is why those riders have their feet out, to allow the rear end to slip out in a controlled manner and use their foot as a pivot of sorts. Lots of tiny rubber tire bits on a race track act as ball bearings sometimes. But you gotta remember they are purposely trying to push the bikes to their limits, yet they are not falling over.

Also, if you scrape your pegs for the first time, it can be alarming, and you'll want to right the bike out of instinct. Don't... in fact, it's OK to pretend there are sparklers on your pegs as long as they just barely scrape along. You won't crash. (And if you do go down, a low side is the safest crash you can have. No worries, just dust yourself off, pick your bike up and continue on)

[Eco Mouse]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

That is one of the best written explanations I have seen.

That's because I'm still a kid a heart, and make my own motorcycle noises, even while I'm riding!

I'm just relaying my observations.

[NoVa Rider]

After my riding buddy pointed out that my RX3 headlight was occasionally out, I checked the operation of the headlight switch. I found that if I moved it halfway between low and high beams, the headlight would go off. The problem here is twofold: first the switch is a slider that is close to the hand grip, and relatively easy to inadvertently nudge up. Second, the detent between low and high beams is too weak; it does not force the switch to click between settings, but allows it to remain in a half-way position.

Now that I know it does this, I will be careful to ensure the switch is in the correct position. Riding with the headlight inadvertently off is something of a safety issue, in my view.

[SpudRider]

I rebuilt the rear wheel of my RX3 with a size 2.50-17, Warp9 alloy rim. If you are interested, you can learn more at the following thread.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14974

[Huck369]

Hit 2,000 miles on my ride in to work this morning...I know, it's nothing compared to what some have already done, but quite a few, since most of them have been on my commute back and forth to work

[rjmorel]

Originally Posted by Huck369

Hit 2,000 miles on my ride in to work this morning...I know, it's nothing compared to what some have already done, but quite a few, since most of them have been on my commute back and forth to work

congrates on the first 2000 miles. Time for an oil change and a ice cream to celebrate I always say!!!! rj

[woodlandsprite]

Originally Posted by Huck369

Hit 2,000 miles on my ride in to work this morning...

congratulations!
I'm still looking forward to my first *200* miles and my first commute to work LOL

[Adjuster]

Originally Posted by NoVa Rider

After my riding buddy pointed out that my RX3 headlight was occasionally out, I checked the operation of the headlight switch. I found that if I moved it halfway between low and high beams, the headlight would go off. The problem here is twofold: first the switch is a slider that is close to the hand grip, and relatively easy to inadvertently nudge up. Second, the detent between low and high beams is too weak; it does not force the switch to click between settings, but allows it to remain in a half-way position.

Now that I know it does this, I will be careful to ensure the switch is in the correct position. Riding with the headlight inadvertently off is something of a safety issue, in my view.

Disassemble the switch. Should be an easy repair. Usually a piece of spring steel inside applying pressure to a ball bearing that clicks in and out of place for the detent. Be careful as there will be a spring under the ball bearing and you don't want to loose any of the small parts. Bend whatever you need to make the switch work better then smear it all with dielectric grease and you will never have a problem again.

Again be very careful of small parts under spring pressure.

/

[NoVa Rider]

Good suggestion on repairing the switch, Adjuster. I take it you checked yours and determined that it can't get stalled in a "dead" position? If that's the case, I may contact CSC about a new switch. It is supposed to be under warranty.