Templar X 250 - Page 24

Huck369 · 07-05-2022, 03:44 PM

Mine has started popping the main fuse....traced it to a dead short in the rectifier/Regulator....sent an email to the seller, hoping they will send me a good one...only 68 miles on it... but still very happy with it...

Thumper · 07-05-2022, 04:33 PM

Nice work tracing it down. Did you just disconnect the thing and turn the key on?

Huck369 · 07-06-2022, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thumper

Nice work tracing it down. Did you just disconnect the thing and turn the key on?

No, I hooked a meter set to Ohms to the bike side of the fuse holder, and a ground on the bike, and first unplugged the ignition switch, but still showed a short, so plugged the switch back in, and then unplugged the Rectifier, and the short was gone, plug it back in, and the short was back, so a bad rectifer/regulator

Nutcracker · 07-06-2022, 09:00 AM

I completed the 14 tooth front sprocket. Same as others have mentioned I ground .05 to .06 Inch's casing. There's a lip on the casing tightly enclosing the 13 tooth factory sprocket. Any way you look at it your grinding and decreasing tolerance.

The results are good paired with the rear 42 tooth if your looking for lower RPMs at 55 to 60 mph. It tops out at 70 to 75 mph has no more power left and it feels a little unstable at high speed. But it gets to 70 good enough.. The torque curve on this engine is pretty impressive. Low end grunt in 1st gear is still respectively slow enough to craw through trail's and enough speed now to take on 2 lane roads.. I believe this is now the "cheapest" dual sport setup I could have gotten.

My kickstand bolt was very loose check yours I don't recall tightening it on assembly..

I received the MSO on the other bike and it shows Motorcycle 19HP.

Thumper · 07-06-2022, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nutcracker

I completed the 14 tooth front sprocket. Same as others have mentioned I ground .05 to .06 Inch's casing. There's a lip on the casing tightly enclosing the 13 tooth factory sprocket. Any way you look at it your grinding and decreasing tolerance.

...
...

Can you post photos of the grinding mod?

Nutcracker · 07-07-2022, 12:36 AM

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Very poor resolution pictures. Difficult to post pictures on this forum.

Thumper · 07-07-2022, 08:12 AM

Thanks! I see what you mean. Here is a picture of the OEM 13T sprocket. I see that there is a thin wall in front of the chain that get close between 7 and 11 (clock positions). I guess you just eliminate that section to make room for the 14T.

That isn't part of the case with oil behind it, so I guess it is a low risk modification. It will open up the chain housing to some exposure to possible splash with mud, but probably not much if at all. OEM gearing sure is low!

Nutcracker · 07-07-2022, 08:39 AM

[/QUOTE]

In your picture you can see better. Your correct the thin wall is more of a splash barrier than a structural part of the casing. Removing or just thinning out the material from 11
to 7 (o'clock position) position is all that's needed. I debated on removing the lip entirely but opted for removing material down to a very thin section still providing protection from road grime and dirt..

Any Suggestions on a high quality 520 chain?

Also if I wanted to change to a crawling gear on the trail would there be any issues with a 12 tooth?
It is easy enough to change on the trail if I wanted to go back to factory gearing once off the hwy..

Thumper · 07-07-2022, 10:05 AM

I will probably get into this next Winter. I will start with the rear sprocket. At 49 teeth, there is lots of room for gearing upwards! But what I'd really like to do is just get a water cooled ZS 300cc or 400cc engine and get to work adapting that!

There's a 4 valve 300cc liquid cooled engine on AliExpress listed at $1,257.25, $640 shipping. They posted a schematic along with many pictures, so I can check measurements on the existing 249cc engine connections to the frame. If it all lines up, the Templar X frame should have no problem handling the additional power.

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That price includes a PWK34 carburetor, electrical parts kit(CDI,Coil,Relay,Rectifier). The electrical parts could be swapped out or just saved as a backup. It isn't obvious if the ignition they include has hotter spark then the OEM Templar gear.

Okierider · 07-09-2022, 07:13 AM

I think my front master cylinder may be shot?
My rear brake is fine. I had to bleed it out of the box but it works pretty well.
I’ve bled my front a few times but it’s gotten to the point where my front brakes are just about useless-maybe half the stopping power of the rear.

Thumper · 07-09-2022, 08:10 AM

If your lever continues to move after reaching a tight pull, then it has a bad seal. Otherwise, it is something else.
Crappy pads? You could remove them and scuff them up. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner before reinstalling? Or new brake pads?

Okierider · 07-09-2022, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thumper

If your lever continues to move after reaching a tight pull, then it has a bad seal. Otherwise, it is something else.
Crappy pads? You could remove them and scuff them up. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner before reinstalling? Or new brake pads?

I think it’s a blown seal somewhere. The pads actually do work fairly well, but there’s no grab in the caliper. Just will not clamp much at all.

Edit: turns out the grab is weak because only one side of the caliper is closing. Is it supposed to be that way?
Seems like the outside pad is stuck almost touching the rotor, and the inside pad will actually grab.

Edit2: forced the calipers open and bled system again-much better lever pressure, won’t bottom out anymore, good enough lol.

riddlerap · 07-12-2022, 11:47 AM

Just a heads up, PSM says they are restocking Templar Xs in 2 weeks. I'm trying to decide between getting a Templar today on sale (Prime day special) or waiting for the X to be in stock.

What was the price of the X regularly for people who have that?

Thumper · 07-12-2022, 12:23 PM

I think I paid $1850 plus $300 shipping.

Thumper · 07-12-2022, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Okierider

...

Edit: turns out the grab is weak because only one side of the caliper is closing. Is it supposed to be that way?
Seems like the outside pad is stuck almost touching the rotor, and the inside pad will actually grab.

Edit2: forced the calipers open and bled system again-much better lever pressure, won’t bottom out anymore, good enough lol.

I see.I have chain and valve maintenance to do. I am adding thorough brake clean and bleed. This weekend
Thanks for the heads-up.

07-05-2022, 03:44 PM	#346
Huck369 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Somerset, KY Posts: 688	Mine has started popping the main fuse....traced it to a dead short in the rectifier/Regulator....sent an email to the seller, hoping they will send me a good one...only 68 miles on it... but still very happy with it... __________________ Huck 2013 Honda NC700X 2013 Moto Guzzi V7 Stone 2016 AJP PR4 2022 Templar X 250 2021 Sondors Metacycle AMA Life Member
	2

07-07-2022, 12:36 AM	#351
Nutcracker Join Date: Mar 2022 Posts: 107	[attach] [/attach] Very poor resolution pictures. Difficult to post pictures on this forum.
	1

07-07-2022, 10:05 AM	#354
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,777	I will probably get into this next Winter. I will start with the rear sprocket. At 49 teeth, there is lots of room for gearing upwards! But what I'd really like to do is just get a water cooled ZS 300cc or 400cc engine and get to work adapting that! There's a 4 valve 300cc liquid cooled engine on AliExpress listed at $1,257.25, $640 shipping. They posted a schematic along with many pictures, so I can check measurements on the existing 249cc engine connections to the frame. If it all lines up, the Templar X frame should have no problem handling the additional power. That price includes a PWK34 carburetor, electrical parts kit(CDI,Coil,Relay,Rectifier). The electrical parts could be swapped out or just saved as a backup. It isn't obvious if the ignition they include has hotter spark then the OEM Templar gear.
	0

07-09-2022, 07:13 AM	#355
Okierider Join Date: Mar 2022 Posts: 257	I think my front master cylinder may be shot? My rear brake is fine. I had to bleed it out of the box but it works pretty well. I’ve bled my front a few times but it’s gotten to the point where my front brakes are just about useless-maybe half the stopping power of the rear. __________________ 2022 X-Pro Templar X 250 “Rocinante” 2022 X-Pro Bolt 125cc “Dapple” 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 “Traveller” 2023 Royal Enfield Classic 350 “Trigger”
	0

07-05-2022, 04:33 PM	#347
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,777	Nice work tracing it down. Did you just disconnect the thing and turn the key on?
	0

07-06-2022, 09:00 AM	#349
Nutcracker Join Date: Mar 2022 Posts: 107	I completed the 14 tooth front sprocket. Same as others have mentioned I ground .05 to .06 Inch's casing. There's a lip on the casing tightly enclosing the 13 tooth factory sprocket. Any way you look at it your grinding and decreasing tolerance. The results are good paired with the rear 42 tooth if your looking for lower RPMs at 55 to 60 mph. It tops out at 70 to 75 mph has no more power left and it feels a little unstable at high speed. But it gets to 70 good enough.. The torque curve on this engine is pretty impressive. Low end grunt in 1st gear is still respectively slow enough to craw through trail's and enough speed now to take on 2 lane roads.. I believe this is now the "cheapest" dual sport setup I could have gotten. My kickstand bolt was very loose check yours I don't recall tightening it on assembly.. I received the MSO on the other bike and it shows Motorcycle 19HP.
	2

07-07-2022, 08:12 AM	#352
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,777	Thanks! I see what you mean. Here is a picture of the OEM 13T sprocket. I see that there is a thin wall in front of the chain that get close between 7 and 11 (clock positions). I guess you just eliminate that section to make room for the 14T. That isn't part of the case with oil behind it, so I guess it is a low risk modification. It will open up the chain housing to some exposure to possible splash with mud, but probably not much if at all. OEM gearing sure is low!
	0

07-07-2022, 08:39 AM	#353
Nutcracker Join Date: Mar 2022 Posts: 107	[/QUOTE] In your picture you can see better. Your correct the thin wall is more of a splash barrier than a structural part of the casing. Removing or just thinning out the material from 11 to 7 (o'clock position) position is all that's needed. I debated on removing the lip entirely but opted for removing material down to a very thin section still providing protection from road grime and dirt.. Any Suggestions on a high quality 520 chain? Also if I wanted to change to a crawling gear on the trail would there be any issues with a 12 tooth? It is easy enough to change on the trail if I wanted to go back to factory gearing once off the hwy..
	0

07-09-2022, 08:10 AM	#356
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,777	If your lever continues to move after reaching a tight pull, then it has a bad seal. Otherwise, it is something else. Crappy pads? You could remove them and scuff them up. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner before reinstalling? Or new brake pads?
	1

07-12-2022, 11:47 AM	#358
riddlerap Join Date: Jul 2022 Posts: 62	Just a heads up, PSM says they are restocking Templar Xs in 2 weeks. I'm trying to decide between getting a Templar today on sale (Prime day special) or waiting for the X to be in stock. What was the price of the X regularly for people who have that?
	0

07-12-2022, 12:23 PM	#359
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,777	I think I paid $1850 plus $300 shipping.
	0