New Hawk, new adventures.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

I admire that CSC rear rack on your bike. It looks like a rear air spoiler when nothing is attached! Ha Ha. At $95 dollars though just not budget worthy. I bought a 1/8 sheet of aluminum 12" X 12" for think $21 off Amazon. I'm going to try and make one some time. It appears it uses like 1 inch plastic spacer to move it up some. You would need some longer bolts and you find any stability issues with that?

I bought the rack when it was on sale for 50 bucks with free shipping back when I had my last Hawk.

It's mounted with some short aluminum spacers and longer bolts, but it is very stable.

Your idea to make your own isn't a bad one, honestly.

[China Rider 27]

At $50 bucks buy it. Time is money. One day get it done.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

At $50 bucks buy it. Time is money. One day get it done.

I would have to do some digging, but I think a member here at one time had a bolt pattern layout/schematic for making their own rear rack. It might come in handy for making your own.

[Megadan]

I never measured the spacers, but I would say 8mm tall, give or take and about 10mm wide.

[Megadan]

So whats the top speed difference befween a pe30 and pz30? Nothing. Hit 74 with ease on my way to work today. Air temps are mid 70s and the 135 pulled strong today. I need to adjust my needle a bit though, I sit right at the needle to main transition when cruising at 65 and I get a random hiccup like it is getting just a tiny bit too much fuel. At the 4th notch it was pretty rich, so I have it in the third. I will see if going up another notch helps. Makes some sense since my PE also ran in the 2nd notch.

[herbie]

Originally Posted by Megadan

So whats the top speed difference befween a pe30 and pz30? Nothing. Hit 74 with ease on my way to work today.

That’s strange, on my Brozz when I went to the pz30b pumper carb my top speed was 74mph. Put in the Pe30 nibbi and top speed went to 78mph. I missed the ride ability of the pumper so I put it back in and the top speed went back down to 74mph

[China Rider 27]

One explanation could be your main jetting was off on the PZ30B but that is speculation, but a possible cause. I can say on the Magician Performance Improvement Project I got no significant difference between the PE30 and PZ30 at WOT as I do not consider 1 mph significant.

[herbie]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

One explanation could be your main jetting was off on the PZ30B but that is speculation, but a possible cause. I can say on the Magician Performance Improvement Project I got no significant difference between the PE30 and PZ30 at WOT as I do not consider 1 mph significant.

It’s possible I guess but I had it dialed in pretty good I thought. I had a temperature gauge on it that I monitored as well as performance. I absolutely loved the pumper carb and the way it made the bike run. I think they should come standard on the Brozz. The Pe30 was a good carb and made wot runs a hoot but usability was not as good as the pumper in my opinion

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by herbie

It’s possible I guess but I had it dialed in pretty good I thought. I had a temperature gauge on it that I monitored as well as performance. I absolutely loved the pumper carb and the way it made the bike run. I think they should come standard on the Brozz. The Pe30 was a good carb and made wot runs a hoot but usability was not as good as the pumper in my opinion

The PZ30B came stock on both my X22R and Ghost. The PE30 had better top end over the PZ30B on the X22R but was always fiddling with it every time the weather changed. I ended up putting the PE30 on the Hawk and the PWK30 on the X22R and both ran better and were easier to tune.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by herbie

That’s strange, on my Brozz when I went to the pz30b pumper carb my top speed was 74mph. Put in the Pe30 nibbi and top speed went to 78mph. I missed the ride ability of the pumper so I put it back in and the top speed went back down to 74mph

My post had a touch of sarcasm in it. Due to my bikes gearing 75mph = rev limiter. I have no doubt that with a non Shrek sized person and more gearing it could probably pull a bit more.

I do agree with you though, the pz30b wins the useability side of things hands down. That is why I swapped back to one now that my bike will be my commuting mule.

[Megadan]

So, Having ridden my bike a few times again, I am reminded of just how incredibly loud it is. I mean, don't get me wrong... it sounds awesome. The cam REALLY opened up it's volume (as did the timing avdvance, porting, and 10.8:1 static compresson), and the stainless wool in my repack gave it a more baritone note to boot. I am actually less self conscious on my VFR, which has a muffler about 8 inches long...

So I am going to go for a 2 stage approach. Last year I tried to go a cheaper route with using a slightly smaller diameter spark arrestor insert to tone it down, and it did have some level of success, but also sounded a bit... odd. This time around I am going to give a T4 quiet insert a try, via 1 3/8" diameter. (linkL https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) I know it kind of seems silly to do all of this work to open up the breathing to then slap a bottleneck in the system, but if it doesn't have a negative impact on the performance and manages to at least take the edge off the bark of it, I am ok with it. Funny enough, I think my bike got louder with the PZ30B. Probably just my imagination, but that's how it feels lol.

I hope it has enough of a desired effect on the volume levels, because otherwise I am going to then resort to a more expensive stage 2.

Stage 2 you ask? What could that be? A 570mm long (just shy of 2ft) muffler for a 51mm pipe with a DB killer on it. Like this one, or similar.


Seeing as Stage 2 costs 5 times what stage 1 is going to cost, I obviously wanted to try for stage 1 first. I figure if all else fails maybe somebody else will take it off my hands for a reduced price and give it a try on their bike.

On the plus side, if I go through with Stage 2 I can do a little angle correction when welding the adapter in place and get the muffler up higher on the frame similar to the original muffler.

If that isn't enough, then I can go full desperation mode and add another baffle to the inlet. Understand that I am not aiming for whisper quiet. I would, however, like to be able to ride home at night, usually around or after midnight mind you, without feeling like the worlds biggest jerk.

In other news, I am working on a semi secret headlight upgrade. I won't know what I have to work with until the first thing I ordered arrives and I know how complete it is. I got a really good deal on it, but I may need to fix or replace a few things. All I will say is Bi LED projector, and then let you wonder about the rest. Maybe I am the worlds biggest jerk after all.

[China Rider 27]

I would consider attaching a DB killer to that pro circuit adaptor much like the stock HAWK exhaust. You could experiment with the length and # of holes a longer version of it with more holes, a closed end or no, which might allow some sound or performance tunability.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

I would consider attaching a DB killer to that pro circuit adaptor much like the stock HAWK exhaust. You could experiment with the length and # of holes a longer version of it with more holes, a closed end or no, which might allow some sound or performance tunability.

I had considered something along those lines actually. I havs a feeling that fhe insert will do a satisfactory job, but will also cause a loss in power, which I want.to avoid. I think what really needs to happen is a step up to a 2 inch mid pipe as found on most proper crf230 exhausts. The larger diameter allows for a greater volume of expansion to and at the muffler, so when a db killer gets added the total flow volume is not negatively impacted. A 1 1/2"/38mm OD pipe is being pushed to its limits with 230cc's as a full length system, and while it works ok with a relatively anemic CG design, once you start opening up the airflow more it becomes a limitation. That is part of the reason I am looking at such a long muffler for a 2" pipe.

[Megadan]

To revisit the world of carb jetting. Moved the needle down to the 2nd notch and it cured all my little hiccups and other such issues at the 1/4 and 3/4 throttle position. Unmasked my 135 main jet being a hair on the lean side when the temps dip into the 50's. Pulled nice and strong when in the 70-80 degree range so I am thinking a compromise jet is going to be called for. I am going to see if I have a 138 in my little jet kit. If not, back up to a 140 it ism at least until it gets regularly in the 90's and above and 70 or warmer at night.

[Megadan]

To revisit the "STFU" mods on the bike, I got the 1 3/8 Quiet insert in today so I decided to toss it on. I dropped down to a 130 main, which without said insert is lean enough to make it fall flat at WOT. With said insert it spews black smoke. So at a minimum that means I would be dropping to a 125 main. On the plus side, it does do a decent job quieting things down. I just don't like the loss of top end I felt.

That leads me to option 2, because I think my issue is that the 38mm exhaust diameter, to some degree, is my biggest restriction now. Having a muffler that opens up to 51mm and into a larger muffler chamber will hopefully reduce some of that.