I've been searching and can't find an answer, so I apologize - Page 2

Weldangrind · 03-16-2011, 02:17 AM

I'm not saying it would fix it. I'm only saying that there's gotta be one.

imroc · 03-16-2011, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

There's gotta be an air / fuel screw. Maybe it's underneath the carb like on my 200 Gio Beast atv.

Talked to an old carb guy this morning and he asked if theres a pot-metal or brass plug on the side of the carb. Indeed there is i told him. He said theres an adjustment screw behind that plug. I'm gonna swap air filters when i get home first.

mizke · 03-16-2011, 07:42 PM

um im not sure about the smaller quads, but i dont think you are supposed to remove any plugs.. there should be a adjustment screw some where around the edge of the bowl where it seals to carb body

Weldangrind · 03-16-2011, 08:48 PM

Agreed.

Don't be prying any plugs out yet. Since you're familiar with removing the carb, take it off and show us a few pics. One of us can circle the air / fuel screw for you.

waynev · 03-16-2011, 09:04 PM

I would think the carb would be similar to the one i have on my GIO 110cc, here's a pic of mine the red arrow is the air/fuel screw and the black arrow is the idle speed screw, does your carb look like this?

The other side has the choke lever and the fuel bowl drain screw.

imroc · 03-16-2011, 11:40 PM

Swapped air filters, same problem. Pulled the brass plug, found the adjuster. Turned it a lil' bit both directions, runs a lil' better but not completely smooth. My carb is nothing similar to the one on tbe pix =[ . I will pull it back out and take some detailed pix of everything. Theres a few ppl who have a similar problem as mine in various forums and have yet to find an answer. I'm hoping u guys and myself can pinpoint the problem and help alleviate some pain for others. It's gotta be simple, just over looking maybe?

Weldangrind · 03-16-2011, 11:45 PM

It's not that complicated. If it won't run with either air filter on but will run without, it's too rich. Pull the slider out and move the clip up one notch and see if that helps.

imroc · 03-16-2011, 11:45 PM

Heres a pic identical to mine:

http://m.atvconnection.com/attachmen...0&d=1252772506

Weldangrind · 03-16-2011, 11:48 PM

Bizarre. Haven't seen an air / fuel screw plugged in one of these, but I've certainly seen it on Quadrajets.

Tuning the screw will only dial in the off-idle response. Moving the clip will lean it out.

imroc · 03-16-2011, 11:49 PM

Weld, you got me on that one?! Slide? Lol! Bear with me, but what exactly am i looking for?

imroc · 03-16-2011, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Bizarre. Haven't seen an air / fuel screw plugged in one of these, but I've certainly seen it on Quadrajets.

Tuning the screw will only dial in the off-idle response. Moving the clip will lean it out.

Yeah, i DID notice that it responded a bit more slower as i turned it CCW. Good call on that and thnx.

Weldangrind · 03-17-2011, 12:04 AM

Ok, unscrew the cap on the top of the carb (that the cable passes through). Carefully pull it out (still attached to the cable), and you will reveal the slider that is spring loaded. When you twist the throttle open, the slider moves up and allows more air and fuel to pass.

Take a moment to study the slider. There is a groove on one side that runs the entire length of the slider; that mates with a pin inside the bore, and it serves to guide the slider so it doesn't rotate. The other side of the slider has a small wedge cut into the bottom; that is what the idle screw mates with. As you tighten the idle screw, it forces the slider up, just as if you had twisted the throttle a little bit.

Ok, examine the slider and note how the throttle cable passes through a large spring and then into the slider. Note that the slider has a keyhole on the underside. If you compress the slider towards the top cap with one hand, you can slide the barrel end of the throttle cable out of the keyhole with the other.

Carefully dismantle the parts. You'll be able to free the throttle cable and let it hang. The large spring will also be free. You'll be left with the slider assembly that has a jet needle sticking out of the bottom. be careful with it. The needle needs to be perfectly straight. Look down into the bore of the carb (where the slider was), and you'll see a hole in the bottom that the needle mates with. What you're going to do is change how much of that hole is uncovered when you twist the throttle.

Look into the top side of the slider. There will be a device that retains the needle, and it might be a V-shaped clip or a disc. Either way, carefully pry it out and set it aside. The needle will now slide out, and you'll see how a clip in a groove on the needle held it in place. There are likely five grooves.

Here's the only tricky part: note which groove the clip is in and move it up one notch. Again, you want to uncover less of the jet when you open the throttle, so you move the clip up. I find it works best to gently press the circlip down onto a hard surface and ease the circlip off. If you try to pry it off with a small screwdriver, it will go to the place where lost keys and socks go, never to return. I think they fall of the planet.

Once you've installed the clip on a higher groove, reassemble the whole deal. Please take pics for us.

Good luck.

imroc · 03-17-2011, 02:06 PM

Alright, after your thorough explanation, i remembered reading an article on this here at the forums:
http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...wtopic&t=10416

I'll give it a try and keep ya posted, thnx

waynev · 03-17-2011, 06:39 PM

Ok, if that pic in link above is your carb and the A/F screw is under that brass plug as shown in the link above then remember that the A/F screw is on the air filter side of the carb, that means it controls the air, so screwing it out will be leaner and in will be richer, most of us have carbs with the A/F screw on the intake side so then it backwards from yours.

imroc · 03-18-2011, 12:11 AM

Float assy with needle

03-16-2011, 02:17 AM	#16
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I'm not saying it would fix it. I'm only saying that there's gotta be one. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

03-16-2011, 07:42 PM	#18
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	um im not sure about the smaller quads, but i dont think you are supposed to remove any plugs.. there should be a adjustment screw some where around the edge of the bowl where it seals to carb body __________________ 200cc beast replica,carsoli cdi,performance coil,fmf powercore 2,uni air filter,hour/tach meter,jetted mikuni carb,msr bars,moose racing grips,yz250f clutch perch,D.I.D chain
	0

03-16-2011, 08:48 PM	#19
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Agreed. Don't be prying any plugs out yet. Since you're familiar with removing the carb, take it off and show us a few pics. One of us can circle the air / fuel screw for you. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

03-16-2011, 11:45 PM	#22
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	It's not that complicated. If it won't run with either air filter on but will run without, it's too rich. Pull the slider out and move the clip up one notch and see if that helps. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

03-16-2011, 11:48 PM	#24
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Bizarre. Haven't seen an air / fuel screw plugged in one of these, but I've certainly seen it on Quadrajets. Tuning the screw will only dial in the off-idle response. Moving the clip will lean it out. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

03-16-2011, 09:04 PM	#20
waynev Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: London, Ontario Posts: 1,097	I would think the carb would be similar to the one i have on my GIO 110cc, here's a pic of mine the red arrow is the air/fuel screw and the black arrow is the idle speed screw, does your carb look like this? The other side has the choke lever and the fuel bowl drain screw.
	0

03-16-2011, 11:40 PM	#21
imroc Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 35	Swapped air filters, same problem. Pulled the brass plug, found the adjuster. Turned it a lil' bit both directions, runs a lil' better but not completely smooth. My carb is nothing similar to the one on tbe pix =[ . I will pull it back out and take some detailed pix of everything. Theres a few ppl who have a similar problem as mine in various forums and have yet to find an answer. I'm hoping u guys and myself can pinpoint the problem and help alleviate some pain for others. It's gotta be simple, just over looking maybe?
	0

03-16-2011, 11:49 PM	#25
imroc Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 35	Weld, you got me on that one?! Slide? Lol! Bear with me, but what exactly am i looking for?
	0

03-17-2011, 12:04 AM	#27
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Ok, unscrew the cap on the top of the carb (that the cable passes through). Carefully pull it out (still attached to the cable), and you will reveal the slider that is spring loaded. When you twist the throttle open, the slider moves up and allows more air and fuel to pass. Take a moment to study the slider. There is a groove on one side that runs the entire length of the slider; that mates with a pin inside the bore, and it serves to guide the slider so it doesn't rotate. The other side of the slider has a small wedge cut into the bottom; that is what the idle screw mates with. As you tighten the idle screw, it forces the slider up, just as if you had twisted the throttle a little bit. Ok, examine the slider and note how the throttle cable passes through a large spring and then into the slider. Note that the slider has a keyhole on the underside. If you compress the slider towards the top cap with one hand, you can slide the barrel end of the throttle cable out of the keyhole with the other. Carefully dismantle the parts. You'll be able to free the throttle cable and let it hang. The large spring will also be free. You'll be left with the slider assembly that has a jet needle sticking out of the bottom. be careful with it. The needle needs to be perfectly straight. Look down into the bore of the carb (where the slider was), and you'll see a hole in the bottom that the needle mates with. What you're going to do is change how much of that hole is uncovered when you twist the throttle. Look into the top side of the slider. There will be a device that retains the needle, and it might be a V-shaped clip or a disc. Either way, carefully pry it out and set it aside. The needle will now slide out, and you'll see how a clip in a groove on the needle held it in place. There are likely five grooves. Here's the only tricky part: note which groove the clip is in and move it up one notch. Again, you want to uncover less of the jet when you open the throttle, so you move the clip up. I find it works best to gently press the circlip down onto a hard surface and ease the circlip off. If you try to pry it off with a small screwdriver, it will go to the place where lost keys and socks go, never to return. I think they fall of the planet. Once you've installed the clip on a higher groove, reassemble the whole deal. Please take pics for us. Good luck. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

03-17-2011, 02:06 PM	#28
imroc Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 35	Alright, after your thorough explanation, i remembered reading an article on this here at the forums: http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...wtopic&t=10416 I'll give it a try and keep ya posted, thnx
	0

03-17-2011, 06:39 PM	#29
waynev Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: London, Ontario Posts: 1,097	Ok, if that pic in link above is your carb and the A/F screw is under that brass plug as shown in the link above then remember that the A/F screw is on the air filter side of the carb, that means it controls the air, so screwing it out will be leaner and in will be richer, most of us have carbs with the A/F screw on the intake side so then it backwards from yours.
	0

03-18-2011, 12:11 AM	#30
imroc Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 35	Float assy with needle
	0