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#16 | |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,423
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Quote:
In addition, the brake caliper doesn't align right when the wheel is offset due to overtightening of the axel bolt. And of course, the pushback bolts set the chain tension, NOT the axel bolt tension. The axel tension cannot possibly keep the axel from moving forward if these chain tension adjustment bolts are set loose. I think the crown bolt securing method is best for preventing the axel nut from lossening on an extended ride. I have heard ridiculous numbers, close to 100ft lbs and even way more for the axel bolt. The key is to set the chain tensioning bolts properly with enough axel bolt tension to resist easy movement. Then when the chain is tensioned right, carefully lock the adjuster bolts with the lock nut, and cinch the axel nut to 40-50lbs and insert the cotter. That is all that is needed. I don't even use a crown bolt, and I never have any issue with the rear axel chainging position. I have never lost an axel nut, and it has NEVER loosened. But the crown bolt secure method is far better than tweaking the piss out of the axel nut, risking wheel bearing damage and rear brake rubbing. I've owned over 50 motorcycles and only 7 of them were shaft drives. Overtighten the axel bolt to your delight. But be forewarned, those rear wheel bearings and rear brake freedom may be the consequences. And, ...I have seen the cheesy weak box steel swingarm steel at the axel slot get deformed with overtightening. Check yours out. Any pictures? Fess up!
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-2022 5 speed Templar X Orange, OEM 51T rear sprocket, 14T front sprocket -NOS 2020 KTM 250SX (2-stroke motocross), less than 10 hours on it |
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