TBR7 1st Start Questions

[Nospark]

Checking grounds is good advice. I went through all connectors with dielectric grease but, never though to check the actual ground connections. Although I did go over the bike tightening everything I could get a wrench or socket on. If there is a paint coating under the connection as Megadan suggests there might be, removing that will help tremendously. I might be able to get some time with the bike this evening.

[Nospark]

I was able to spend some time with the bike before the temp drops 35 deg here in Milwaukee. I sanded the ground wire at the starter and sanded off any black paint/primer that might have been preventing a good contact with the ring terminal and re-attached. I can't say it made a noticeable difference but, couldn't hurt. I ordered the heavier ground wire Megadan shared in the post. I'll install that in a few days when it arrives. I found that if I make sure the choke lever is fully engaged, it will start. I have the handle bar choke control. It was a challenge to keep it running which was strange as I didn't recall that from before. I got it idling with the choke off and set the idle screw up. I went in and gathered wrenches to adjust the clutch and when I came back out it was idling very fast. I adjusted it back down and took it for a ride. The top of my foot is sore from up shifting to 2nd & 3rd. 4th & 5th to a lessor degree. After a trip around the block I set about adjusting the clutch. The clutch cover was hot enough to burn me. I thought the smoke and smell was only factory header paint but, if the clutch cover isn;t suppose to get that hot, maybe I'm burning up the clutch. I noticed that when I put the bike in 1st gear it pulls forward with enough force to move me forward on a flat road with the clutch lever fully pulled. Does this suggest clutch is not adjusted properly?

[Thumper]

Finally getting to test it! Great news.

I've been buried with auto mechanic stuff and haven't posted for a while but periodically check the forum for new stuff.

Your experience with hard start and the fact that you mentioned that it would start with full choke makes sense. If jet right, it will need maybe half choke, or full when it is really cold out. But you may find that increasing the pilot jet size will get it closer to ideal. We went from 36 to 38 on my son's TBR7 (more than a month ago!?). It is all I had at the time. I finally got my "half jet" kits from AliExpress and we may switch to a 40 or 42 if it isn't easy starting with half choke on nice day. You spend most of your time on the main jet, so there is no reason to fight a lean cold start! It won't hurt at all to be a bit rich at idle.

ADJUST the valves. My Storm, and my son's TBR7 were TIGHT. Not good. It is easy, really. The valve cover (three 10mm bolts) will work out of there with the tank in place. Open the port on the top of the left side of the crankcase to see the timing mark ("T"), stator side, and remove the spark plug so it is easy to turn the crank.

You can remove the crankshaft bolt window and use a socket to turn the crank, or just use the kickstart to turn it, though you will have more control on the crankshaft nut! Then just rotate it to T position mark. The valves should have clearance! 0.004-0.005 exhaust, 0.002-0.003 intake.
If not, then make it so. Don't overtighten like a gorilla on the lock nuts. Just snug and then another 1/8 turn. I posted info on a valve tool and will add the link to that post later.

Here it is:
https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=30555

The other thing is like buzz said keep the battery charged up. After you get familiar with the engine and can trouble shoot things you didn't adjust or check (!), having a good charge is a good place to start.

[kyle]

Originally Posted by Nospark

I was able to spend some time with the bike before the temp drops 35 deg here in Milwaukee. I sanded the ground wire at the starter and sanded off any black paint/primer that might have been preventing a good contact with the ring terminal and re-attached. I can't say it made a noticeable difference but, couldn't hurt. I ordered the heavier ground wire Megadan shared in the post. I'll install that in a few days when it arrives. I found that if I make sure the choke lever is fully engaged, it will start. I have the handle bar choke control. It was a challenge to keep it running which was strange as I didn't recall that from before. I got it idling with the choke off and set the idle screw up. I went in and gathered wrenches to adjust the clutch and when I came back out it was idling very fast. I adjusted it back down and took it for a ride. The top of my foot is sore from up shifting to 2nd & 3rd. 4th & 5th to a lessor degree. After a trip around the block I set about adjusting the clutch. The clutch cover was hot enough to burn me. I thought the smoke and smell was only factory header paint but, if the clutch cover isn;t suppose to get that hot, maybe I'm burning up the clutch. I noticed that when I put the bike in 1st gear it pulls forward with enough force to move me forward on a flat road with the clutch lever fully pulled. Does this suggest clutch is not adjusted properly?

100% your bike should not pull forward when your clutch is fully squeezed... that means it is not fully disengaging. You need to tighten the cable.. likely the larger adjustment on the engine side.. but may be able to pull enough out of the clutch lever fine adjustment.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by kyle

100% your bike should not pull forward when your clutch is fully squeezed... that means it is not fully disengaging. You need to tighten the cable.. likely the larger adjustment on the engine side.. but may be able to pull enough out of the clutch lever fine adjustment.

Exactly. Attempting to shift with the clutch incompletely engaged is hard on the gears and linkage (and seals and bearings). Definitely make the cable tighter at rest to make sure the clutch is FULLY engaging when you pull the clutch.

1. And by the way, when the clutch is engaged, you won't be going anywhere even if you are in gear!

Clutch not pulled means "not engaged", which is disengaged. When the clutch is disengaged in gear, you are ROLLING if not in neutral, or the engine has stopped!

Sounds complicated after the first statement, but true!

[Nospark]

I did adjust the valves prior to 1st start. I thought because of the hard start issue I may have incorrectly set them on the exhaust stroke but, I don't think so. I can hear a noticeable ticking from the valve train when the bike is at idle. I would guess too tight and I wouldn't here the ticking.
First time a ran the bike it would bog when I blipped the throttle. It didn't do that today so I'm going to focus on clutch adjustment and get some more miles on it 1st before going looking at the carb. Looks like another week before it warms up again.
OK, to be sure, because I'm a simpleton, In 1st gear with the clutch lever fully pulled in I should not feel any tug to move forward. That seems intuitive. If I do feel a tug, clutch lever needs to pull more travel on the trans shift arm which increases clutch engagement. Correct?
Oh, brake clean on rear brake helped a lot. Could lock up rear wheel if I had to. Still not grabbing like I would expect. I'm going to take the advice here, pull the pads, clean and scuff.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Nospark

I did adjust the valves prior to 1st start. I thought because of the hard start issue I may have incorrectly set them on the exhaust stroke but, I don't think so. I can hear a noticeable ticking from the valve train when the bike is at idle. I would guess too tight and I wouldn't here the ticking.
First time a ran the bike it would bog when I blipped the throttle. It didn't do that today so I'm going to focus on clutch adjustment and get some more miles on it 1st before going looking at the carb. Looks like another week before it warms up again.
OK, to be sure, because I'm a simpleton, In 1st gear with the clutch lever fully pulled in I should not feel any tug to move forward. That seems intuitive. If I do feel a tug, clutch lever needs to pull more travel on the trans shift arm which increases clutch engagement. Correct?
Oh, brake clean on rear brake helped a lot. Could lock up rear wheel if I had to. Still not grabbing like I would expect. I'm going to take the advice here, pull the pads, clean and scuff.

Most likely insufficient charge or insufficient choke. Just charge it up and give it full choke. It should start right up!

[kyle]

Originally Posted by Nospark

I did adjust the valves prior to 1st start. I thought because of the hard start issue I may have incorrectly set them on the exhaust stroke but, I don't think so. I can hear a noticeable ticking from the valve train when the bike is at idle. I would guess too tight and I wouldn't here the ticking.
First time a ran the bike it would bog when I blipped the throttle. It didn't do that today so I'm going to focus on clutch adjustment and get some more miles on it 1st before going looking at the carb. Looks like another week before it warms up again.
OK, to be sure, because I'm a simpleton, In 1st gear with the clutch lever fully pulled in I should not feel any tug to move forward. That seems intuitive. If I do feel a tug, clutch lever needs to pull more travel on the trans shift arm which increases clutch engagement. Correct?
Oh, brake clean on rear brake helped a lot. Could lock up rear wheel if I had to. Still not grabbing like I would expect. I'm going to take the advice here, pull the pads, clean and scuff.

Correct.. Clutch fully pulled should provide no movement or tug even with the bike in gear. Yes... tighten up that cable.. two adjustments, large adjustment at the lever on the engine/trans.. fine adjustment on the clutch lever at the handlebar.

That being said.. these bikes have a wet clutch so when you first crank it may want to jump a little.. but as soon as the oil is slung around and the everything is running there should be no tug.

[Nospark]

I was able to adjust the clutch and go for a quick ride today over lunch hour. The adjustment made a HUGE! difference. It now shifts as I would have expected to begin with. I hope I didn't take life out of the clutch with the wear on it from being out of adjustment so badly. What's done is done.
The heavy ground cable Megadan suggested is too short to replace the factory battery ground cable. The negative terminal on my Batt is towards the rear of the bike. Maybe different on a Hawk. I feel bad about stealing that $11 out of my kids piggy bank for a cable that's too short. I can possibly use it as motor ground elsewhere and getting a longer one for the Batt. Then again, I could give it to my kid so he's got something to show for his $11.
I have 12 miles on the bike already so I'm obviously now a very experienced TBR7 rider. About time for my 1st oil change. Probably good to see how much clutch material is in there.

[kyle]

Originally Posted by Nospark

I was able to adjust the clutch and go for a quick ride today over lunch hour. The adjustment made a HUGE! difference. It now shifts as I would have expected to begin with. I hope I didn't take life out of the clutch with the wear on it from being out of adjustment so badly. What's done is done.
The heavy ground cable Megadan suggested is too short to replace the factory battery ground cable. The negative terminal on my Batt is towards the rear of the bike. Maybe different on a Hawk. I feel bad about stealing that $11 out of my kids piggy bank for a cable that's too short. I can possibly use it as motor ground elsewhere and getting a longer one for the Batt. Then again, I could give it to my kid so he's got something to show for his $11.
I have 12 miles on the bike already so I'm obviously now a very experienced TBR7 rider. About time for my 1st oil change. Probably good to see how much clutch material is in there.

Lol glad to hear you got it going ! Ride safe and def change that oil.

[Nospark]

I had a friend over to the house on Saturday. He owns and rides a variety of US and Japanese made bikes as regularly as one can here in Milwaukee. I took my bike out for a ride and felt the clutch and shifting was just fine. Almost broke the 15 miles on the odometer. He didn't comment on the brakes so I asked about the rear brake stopping power. He didn't notice an issue but, explained he's a heavy front brake user. He wisely pointed out I don't have enough slack in the chain. I didn't realize the chain tightens up when the suspension compresses. I sat on the bike and put my full weight on the seat and sure enough, no slack in the chain. I'll add some additional slack before riding again.
He commented the bike felt a bit strange turning one direction at slow speed. He suggested I check alignment (offset of front wheel to rear wheel) which I'll do.
Now, if it would just warm up for a few days, I can get some miles on it. I'm really looking forward to seeing that odometer turn over to 20

[Thumper]

The only alignment adjustment I know about is the indicators above the rear axel on the swingarm. If the swingarm is marked properly, same vertical line on both sides should mean the rear axel is properly aligned.

This affects front wheel versus rear wheel alignment, but I think it's important to minimize chain and rear sprocket wear.

It has been a Cold and wet Spring. Yes, a few nice days but the trails have been too wet for the most part. A home construction site I ride at dries out sooner, so I've gotten some time in.

Now that I have the long list of car maintenance done (family of cars!!), I can refocus on the TBR7. I like the digital gear indicator. Thought that was SO cool when it showed up on my brand new 1976 Suzuki GS550. Six years. What fun that was!

[Nospark]

Hey! What a surprise. Now that I have the clutch adjusted properly so the bike isn't being pulled forward by the starter motor when in neutral, and when clutch lever is pulled, the factory battery turns the starter motor over just fine.
Who'd of thunk it.
I guess the starting system wasn't designed to power the bike around at 5mph.