Is the Hawk Chinese Junk After all? - Page 2

ben2go · 11-14-2018, 08:47 PM

10-12 ft lbs of torque is all that is needed. Locking washers may help hold better. Don't use nyloc nuts. They will melt and cause a mess that is a futile pain in the rear to clean off if the nuts actually come off.

Ariel Red Hunter · 11-14-2018, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go

10-12 ft lbs of torque is all that is needed. Locking washers may help hold better. Don't use nyloc nuts. They will melt and cause a mess that is a futile pain in the rear to clean off if the nuts actually come off.

I agree, don't use nyloc nuts. I used to double nut mine, that way you don't have to over torque them...ARH

davisbm2 · 11-15-2018, 10:10 AM

Will a place like AutoZone really have the right studs? I feel like I'm going to bring in the correct stud and they won't have the right length or maybe they don't have metric sizing; and then I'm sure it will $20 a stud.

I feel like AutoZone like stores are good if you have an '89 Silverado, but not so much for Chinese scooters or motorcycles...

**JerryHawk250** · 11-15-2018, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davisbm2

Will a place like AutoZone really have the right studs? I feel like I'm going to bring in the correct stud and they won't have the right length or maybe they don't have metric sizing; and then I'm sure it will $20 a stud.

I feel like AutoZone like stores are good if you have an '89 Silverado, but not so much for Chinese scooters or motorcycles...

Somebody like NAPA Auto Parts or Orielly's might have a wider selection. If you have to drill and tap new holes you can go with a SAE thread if metric is not available.

I just checked my local Orielly's and they carry them.

Mudflap · 11-15-2018, 10:58 AM

You can always order a stud from a Honda shop if need be.

For removing those studs, rather than trying to drill it out I place a nut over the broken off stud then weld it to the stud with a wire welder. It has worked every time, quick and easy.

**JerryHawk250** · 11-15-2018, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudflap

You can always order a stud from a Honda shop if need be.

For removing those studs, rather than trying to drill it out I place a nut over the broken off stud then weld it to the stud with a wire welder. It has worked every time, quick and easy.

I've used that method many times.

Works most the time.

2LZ · 11-15-2018, 11:33 AM

This begs the question. How come they don't hold head pipes on with a couple of springs anymore? EPA?

timcosby · 11-16-2018, 09:16 PM

bike or boat....never fails you must fix something at the start of the season/

Sochin · 11-16-2018, 10:48 PM

I found my exhaust studs at my local Ace hardware store in the.........you guessed it....hardware section of bolts and nuts. You be surprised at what you can find there. They are grade 8 to boot..........to exhaust flange and head will break before the bolt do.

Megadan · 11-17-2018, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sochin

They are grade 8 to boot..........to exhaust flange and head will break before the bolt do.

Since the studs in question are metric (M8 x 1.25) the equivalent of grade 8 (SAE) would be grade 10.9.

On my last Hawk and the current one, I upgraded to stainless steel (A2) studs, washers, and nuts. Much like ARH, I use a double nut (main and locking) to secure the head pipe. I have never had one come loose or back out. The mid pipe mount is also crucial to prevent stud breakage (the one on the frame under the seat area). If that is loose and allows the pipe to vibrate it will put a lot of stress on the studs and increase the chance of, or lead up to, failures. I put two large flat washers on each side of the rubber in order to tighten it down enough without completely destroying the rubber in the process.

zendick · 11-17-2018, 07:41 PM

I have over 3000 miles (not kms) on my magician, lost a couple screws/nuts due to vibration unscrewing but no breaks no fractures.

I beat on this bike, I get a solid 3' of air over railroad tracks and ride the speed humps like mougles.

I weight 200lbs

davisbm2 · 11-18-2018, 09:33 AM

So I had some luck, kinda.. I bought left handed bits and drilled slowly, stepping the size as I went. Never got the stud to back out, but I did remove material down so far as to start exposing the top of the threads. So I took a metric tap and ran it into the hole, sort of cutting out what was left of the screw.

So I bought new studs at NAPA, added some blue loctite, and installed. I’d say there is a thread engagement of about 60%, hopefully enough to get me another 1000 Miles if I’m careful. No 65mph 100 mile trips anymore... I’m sad about that. But I did take the double nut method which I would recommend doing to the stock machines as part of the setup procedure of these bikes.

I had NOT thought about the exhaust split point putting added stress on the studs, but that makes sense. I’m not sure what rubber part is being referred to but I just tighten the heck out of the metal connector and check it once in a while, is there a better way to provide support there?

Megadan · 11-18-2018, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davisbm2

So I had some luck, kinda.. I bought left handed bits and drilled slowly, stepping the size as I went. Never got the stud to back out, but I did remove material down so far as to start exposing the top of the threads. So I took a metric tap and ran it into the hole, sort of cutting out what was left of the screw.

So I bought new studs at NAPA, added some blue loctite, and installed. I’d say there is a thread engagement of about 60%, hopefully enough to get me another 1000 Miles if I’m careful. No 65mph 100 mile trips anymore... I’m sad about that. But I did take the double nut method which I would recommend doing to the stock machines as part of the setup procedure of these bikes.

I had NOT thought about the exhaust split point putting added stress on the studs, but that makes sense. I’m not sure what rubber part is being referred to but I just tighten the heck out of the metal connector and check it once in a while, is there a better way to provide support there?

You are referring to the flanged pipe connection. I am talking about the mount to the frame behind that.

Sochin · 11-20-2018, 12:53 AM

When my studs broke off, the bracket you're talking about Dan.......broke....due to Chinese welding......causing the failure. Now I welded it, time will show if mine is better than Chinese welding? :P

11-15-2018, 11:33 AM	#22
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,112	This begs the question. How come they don't hold head pipes on with a couple of springs anymore? EPA? __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
	0

11-16-2018, 09:16 PM	#23
timcosby Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: robertsdale alabama usa Posts: 1,007	bike or boat....never fails you must fix something at the start of the season/ __________________ 1991 harley heritage softail classic 2016 hawk kaw h1 400 tripple 13' long chopper in progress 2009 johnny pag bar hog 2004 hd electra glide ultra classic shriner edition 1997 harley davidson 1200 sportster 1972 harley davidson amf sx250
	0

11-16-2018, 10:48 PM	#24
Sochin Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Montucky Posts: 209	I found my exhaust studs at my local Ace hardware store in the.........you guessed it....hardware section of bolts and nuts. You be surprised at what you can find there. They are grade 8 to boot..........to exhaust flange and head will break before the bolt do. __________________ 1983 Honda Xl600R 2016 Ducati Multistrada 1200S DVT
	0

11-20-2018, 12:53 AM	#29
Sochin Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Montucky Posts: 209	When my studs broke off, the bracket you're talking about Dan.......broke....due to Chinese welding......causing the failure. Now I welded it, time will show if mine is better than Chinese welding? :P __________________ 1983 Honda Xl600R 2016 Ducati Multistrada 1200S DVT
	0

11-14-2018, 08:47 PM	#16
ben2go Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,335	10-12 ft lbs of torque is all that is needed. Locking washers may help hold better. Don't use nyloc nuts. They will melt and cause a mess that is a futile pain in the rear to clean off if the nuts actually come off.
	0

11-15-2018, 10:10 AM	#18
davisbm2 Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 54	Will a place like AutoZone really have the right studs? I feel like I'm going to bring in the correct stud and they won't have the right length or maybe they don't have metric sizing; and then I'm sure it will $20 a stud. I feel like AutoZone like stores are good if you have an '89 Silverado, but not so much for Chinese scooters or motorcycles...
	0

11-15-2018, 10:58 AM	#20
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,933	You can always order a stud from a Honda shop if need be. For removing those studs, rather than trying to drill it out I place a nut over the broken off stud then weld it to the stud with a wire welder. It has worked every time, quick and easy.
	3

11-17-2018, 07:41 PM	#26
zendick Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 32	I have over 3000 miles (not kms) on my magician, lost a couple screws/nuts due to vibration unscrewing but no breaks no fractures. I beat on this bike, I get a solid 3' of air over railroad tracks and ride the speed humps like mougles. I weight 200lbs
	0

11-18-2018, 09:33 AM	#27
davisbm2 Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 54	So I had some luck, kinda.. I bought left handed bits and drilled slowly, stepping the size as I went. Never got the stud to back out, but I did remove material down so far as to start exposing the top of the threads. So I took a metric tap and ran it into the hole, sort of cutting out what was left of the screw. So I bought new studs at NAPA, added some blue loctite, and installed. I’d say there is a thread engagement of about 60%, hopefully enough to get me another 1000 Miles if I’m careful. No 65mph 100 mile trips anymore... I’m sad about that. But I did take the double nut method which I would recommend doing to the stock machines as part of the setup procedure of these bikes. I had NOT thought about the exhaust split point putting added stress on the studs, but that makes sense. I’m not sure what rubber part is being referred to but I just tighten the heck out of the metal connector and check it once in a while, is there a better way to provide support there?
	0