It's here!

[RogerWFarrier]

Originally Posted by JeremyC

Today, I put on the mikuni knockoff, changed the rear sprocket to 45 tooth, and put on the new unibear chain. If you keep the 15T drive sprocket, a 128 tooth looks like it's a perfect fit. I'll know for sure once I set the wheels on the ground. I think the last thing to do is adjust valves and put the brake pedal return spring on. Oh, and the battery.

I'm running 17/45 on my TT 250 and 128 links on the chain is perfect as well.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by JeremyC

Just a heads up, the header pipe does not like ac stick or mig welding. I had to take it to a welding shop, and they put a new piece of sheet steel around the CAT area, and had to use heli-arc to get that to work. It's thin and very low carbon.A dremel and 1/8" end mill took care of the globs of weld just inside of the mounting flange. So far the rest of the assembly has gone fairly smooth, except for the weld nut that's on the side of the swing arm to bolt on the chain guide (the one that needs a re-design). I took the bolt out, ground back the offending raised area that don't fall in line with the chain, went to put it back on with loctite, and "pop". Thankfully, the steel seems to be pretty good there, and I was able to weld on a new m6 nut. I was bolting it back on with a 1/4" ratchet with my fingertips when it popped. Just something everyone should watch out for...

What kind of welder are you using?

[JeremyC]

I attempted it with ac stick at low amperage.. wasn't happening, so off it went to the welding shop. He tried his clark mig 1st, no go.
I got the paperwork in the mail today, so I must have been one of the lucky ones (I ordered from that Manny feller). Heading out here in a few to adjust valves, change oil, and a couple other things.

[JeremyC]

It took its first breath! I have to let it cool down and do some minor carb adjustments. I have a slight pop/miss at idle, and it's slightly worse just off idle.. I probably just need to open the fuel mixture screw a touch more. I can just "blip" the throttle and it's very responsive, so I'm surely not off by much.
Still gotta adjust the chain, swap the wires for the front turn signals (might be confusing when the front signal is the opposite of the rear when flashing ), adjust the clutch cable at the motor (too hot ATM), and a few little piddly things before the 1st ride!

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by JeremyC

I have a slight pop/miss at idle, and it's slightly worse just off idle.. I probably just need to open the fuel mixture screw a touch more. I can just "blip" the throttle and it's very responsive, so I'm surely not off by much.

Run it for a while. Take a few rides. It's mood will get better. Then do some more adjusting.

[JeremyC]

It's done! I rode it off and on for well over an hour. Lots of fun, smiles, and relearning how to ride in this old body LOL! I'm impressed with the torque and power this bike produces!

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by JeremyC

It's done! I rode it off and on for well over an hour. Lots of fun, smiles, and relearning how to ride in this old body LOL! I'm impressed with the torque and power this bike produces!

After break in you will be amazed how they will handle grades in their powerband...careful out there!

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by JeremyC

It's done! I rode it off and on for well over an hour. Lots of fun, smiles, and relearning how to ride in this old body LOL! I'm impressed with the torque and power this bike produces!

After you hit about 500 miles these bikes really smooth out.

[JeremyC]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

After you hit about 500 miles these bikes really smooth out.

I bet I'll hit that before summer's over! In two days, I've put 32 miles (as per the odometer, so probably closer to 24) on it, so I went ahead and changed the oil. Nothing too surprising, just the usual fine aluminum powder mixed in there. I did start out with fresh Rotella before i ever fired it up for the 1st time.

[JeremyC]

I do want to thank all of you who have made various comments throughout all of the threads on here about what you run for carb jets. I did go ahead and play with the idle mixture screw yesterday, and it only needed another 1/8 to 1/4 turn out to get the popping at idle to go away, and the 120 main along with the needle clip one notch below center seems to be dead on. I'll know more when I run it a while and check the plug.

[JeremyC]

I drained the forks and refilled with dexron VI (it was on the shelf) last night. I drained out 180ML and put the same back in. Should I add more, or does that sound about right? I'm thinking they could hold more, but how much?

[old kid]

Originally Posted by JeremyC

I drained the forks and refilled with dexron VI (it was on the shelf) last night. I drained out 180ML and put the same back in. Should I add more, or does that sound about right? I'm thinking they could hold more, but how much?

200 ml's is what i got out of mine, you can adjust that a little depending on your preference just dont put too much in.
whatever they had in min forks looked like burnt motor oil.

[JerryHawk250]

I drained 200ml out and put 210ml in. Made it nice and firm for off road trail riding. Before I changed it the forks would bottom out.

[old kid]

mine were the same way , they would bottom out thats why i changed it, i put in 200 ml of 10wt fork oil and it is good for me,

im not sure how much more you can put in without running the risk of blowing the seals out, i wouldnt go over 20ml just to be safe.

[JeremyC]

Originally Posted by old kid

200 ml's is what i got out of mine, you can adjust that a little depending on your preference just dont put too much in.
whatever they had in min forks looked like burnt motor oil.

Same here! It was used break-in oil without a doubt. I'll ride it a while before I add more, but it does seem a bit spongy. Another option would be longer spacers to increase the pre-load on the springs, but how much is too much?