sprocket problems!

[rav007]

Originally Posted by Bill1

I rode the bike to work tonight, so I'll take the cover off again tomorrow and check to see how badly it scrubbed. There was some runout in the output shaft so hopefully it will not be as bad as I initially thought.

I will probably order a 16T sprocket anyway and maybe another rear in 42T.

in my case, the 17 and the 16 rubbed, to fix it i installed it backwards. see picture. if you don't do it like this, your chain will be massively out of alignment and there isn't a way to get your rear tire straight as it should be. i used locktite and i have 50 miles or so on it, its not loosening.

also, this isn't a warranty issue as with the stock sprocket and gearing and chain, everything clears and there is no rubbing, this is a design change.

[Bill1]

I pulled the cover off mine and I didn't see any additional rubbing, but it does look like the front sprocket is out of alignment.

[david3921]

Originally Posted by rav007

in my case, the 17 and the 16 rubbed, to fix it i installed it backwards. see picture. if you don't do it like this, your chain will be massively out of alignment and there isn't a way to get your rear tire straight as it should be. i used locktite and i have 50 miles or so on it, its not loosening.

also, this isn't a warranty issue as with the stock sprocket and gearing and chain, everything clears and there is no rubbing, this is a design change.

I think a better option would be to fabricate a backing plate the correct thickness with pass through holes for the shaft and bolts and attach it with the original outer plate.

Edit,
The more I look at it the more I think that you could get by with a short length of pipe with the inside diameter matching the shaft diameter.

[david3921]

The above suggestions were if you wanted to keep the shaft as it is. You are correct that this is not normal as the groove in the shaft should be out further. If it were mine, I would attempt to machine a groove in the correct spot. The first thing that came to mind was to remove the sprocket and measure the width of the groove. If you have a 4" or 4 1/2" grinder, you should be able to find a disk (or stacked disks) the right thickness. Measure and mark where the new groove needs to go. Set the bike up straight making sure it's stable. Start it and put it in 1st gear and cut the new groove keeping the grinder as paralell to the shaft as possible.

Of course, I not saying you should do this. You can call where you got it from and tell them you have the wrong shaft on your bike. Is it still under warranty?

[pete]

The Japs would put out a model recall for a cock up that big ....
can't see the chinamen doing that...
thats a saftey issue , how the hell did it get out of the factory...
hopefuly it's just a one off...



...

[pete]

Originally Posted by Bill1

What's involved in removing the output shaft?

lots of spanners or one very big hammer....

A full engine strip....




...

[hertz9753]

Pete, what do they call it when you have to split the engine case where you live? I remember getting a warning from a mechanic that if he had to break the case it would cost more money when I took my 1980 Kawasaki KX125 in about 17 years ago for a ring job. The lower end was fine but the bike got a new piston and rings after the cylinder came back from US Chrome with a new lining.

I bought two bikes to make one and the original engine had a US Steel liner sleeve and a broken output shaft. I still have the engine with the sleeve and the piston with the broken piston port.

[rav007]

Originally Posted by pete

The Japs would put out a model recall for a cock up that big ....
can't see the chinamen doing that...
thats a saftey issue , how the hell did it get out of the factory...
hopefuly it's just a one off...



...

I think the issue your going to face is that with the stock sprocket and chain it works fine with the plate bolted in the correct direction. if I didn't make it clear I swung it around to change the gearing and get the new oring chain in alignment.

[rav007]

Originally Posted by david3921

I think a better option would be to fabricate a backing plate the correct thickness with pass through holes for the shaft and bolts and attach it with the original outer plate.

Edit,
The more I look at it the more I think that you could get by with a short length of pipe with the inside diameter matching the shaft diameter.

I think I'll just keep the current arrangement and simply get longer bolts and snug up a nut on the outside to ensure it stays locked in place

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by pete

lots of spanners or one very big hammer....

A full engine strip....




...

You have to split the cases in order to get at that shaft....ARH...p.s. Or you can do what hundreds of Hawk riders have done, which is switch to a non o-ring high quality chain, like Uni-Bear, for example.

[timcosby]

i am wondering if they changed the type of chain they use from the factory cause i got my hawk fall of last year and closing in on 700 miles and have yet to need to adjust it????

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by timcosby

i am wondering if they changed the type of chain they use from the factory cause i got my hawk fall of last year and closing in on 700 miles and have yet to need to adjust it????

Wouldn't surprise me that they did. God alone knows how many people complained about that original chain. Haven't heard any more complaints about swing arm bushings lately either.......ARH

[chuck]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

Wouldn't surprise me that they did. God alone knows how many people complained about that original chain. Haven't heard any more complaints about swing arm bushings lately either.......ARH

It's just a matter of time