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Old 12-26-2016, 03:38 PM   #16
traygiddens   traygiddens is offline
 
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read a similar thread about the spark plug being the culprit, it had an internal crack . perhaps?


 
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Old 12-26-2016, 03:42 PM   #17
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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read a similar thread about the spark plug being the culprit, it had an internal crack . perhaps?
Good one, try the easy stuff first. He will get it, he has 2 to work with. Now he will be completely familiar when the job is done.
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Old 12-26-2016, 06:00 PM   #18
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LOL that's one way to look at it. I had it running for about 15 minutes, shut it off, and back to the same thing again. Runs at most 30 seconds if I keep playing with the throttle, even then it doesn't run smoothly. It acts almost like there's a fuel problem but I'm positive it's an electrical issue. I replaced the spark plug in both ATV's with NGK C7HSA when I changed the oil the second time.


 
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Old 12-27-2016, 12:08 AM   #19
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Doh!

I read where they put some kind of gel packs in the carburetors for shipping that sometimes don't dissolve they way they're meant to. So I took the carb off hoping to investigate/clean it. Nope. They sealed up the bolts. I ordered new cdi, voltage regulator, coil, and carburetor. Whatever I don't need now, I'll have a spare for later. I know for a fact I need the cdi though. Tomorrow I'll attempt to take the carb apart, but I imagine I'll end up tearing it up trying to remove the bowl. Haven't been able to contact the vendor/dealer yet. Guess they're still closed for the holidays. The saga continues....


 
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Old 12-27-2016, 12:41 AM   #20
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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If this was my problem, I would swap those parts and verify the issue since I have another unit before I ordered parts. also if that intake valve is in lock down it not going to want to start or run for shit.

Good luck.
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Old 12-27-2016, 09:10 AM   #21
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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I read where they put some kind of gel packs in the carburetors for shipping that sometimes don't dissolve they way they're meant to. So I took the carb off hoping to investigate/clean it. Nope. They sealed up the bolts. I ordered new cdi, voltage regulator, coil, and carburetor. Whatever I don't need now, I'll have a spare for later. I know for a fact I need the cdi though. Tomorrow I'll attempt to take the carb apart, but I imagine I'll end up tearing it up trying to remove the bowl. Haven't been able to contact the vendor/dealer yet. Guess they're still closed for the holidays. The saga continues....
Good idea on ordering the parts. There so cheap and if you are planning to buy two more you will have extra parts. Knock on wood mine is 2 years old and still runs great.
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Old 12-27-2016, 09:27 AM   #22
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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LOL that's one way to look at it. I had it running for about 15 minutes, shut it off, and back to the same thing again. Runs at most 30 seconds if I keep playing with the throttle, even then it doesn't run smoothly. It acts almost like there's a fuel problem but I'm positive it's an electrical issue. I replaced the spark plug in both ATV's with NGK C7HSA when I changed the oil the second time.
Something to check when you pull the carburetor off. Check the slide and make sure it is not stuck. Also check that all the vacuum hoses are connected as the slide works off of vacuum. Mine was acting up the same way one day after cleaning the air filter. Some dust had got on the slide and it got stuck. It ran like if was running rich. There is also a fuel enricher(auto choke) for cold starts. check to see if it is getting power to it.
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Old 12-27-2016, 11:01 AM   #23
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If this was my problem, I would swap those parts and verify the issue since I have another unit before I ordered parts. also if that intake valve is in lock down it not going to want to start or run for shit.

Good luck.
I swapped everything except the carburetor. My tests indicated that the CDI was bad. Swapping it got it to run but not stay running. I swapped the other electrical components just for "fun", but they didn't make any difference, nor did I expect them to. Those parts test fine. I had to go back to work today so that will prevent me from swapping the carb until the new one comes in on Thursday.


 
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Old 12-27-2016, 11:03 AM   #24
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Good idea on ordering the parts. There so cheap and if you are planning to buy two more you will have extra parts. Knock on wood mine is 2 years old and still runs great.
Yes, I read all kinds of good things about these bikes, so I'm still hopeful once I get over this initial bump in the road they will prove to be just as good.


 
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Old 12-27-2016, 11:05 AM   #25
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Yes, I read all kinds of good things about these bikes, so I'm still hopeful once I get over this initial bump in the road they will prove to be just as good.
The crazy part is that it is probably something so simple and you will be Why didn't check that first? lol
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Old 12-27-2016, 11:09 AM   #26
Numbrseven   Numbrseven is offline
 
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Irate

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Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
Something to check when you pull the carburetor off. Check the slide and make sure it is not stuck. Also check that all the vacuum hoses are connected as the slide works off of vacuum. Mine was acting up the same way one day after cleaning the air filter. Some dust had got on the slide and it got stuck. It ran like if was running rich. There is also a fuel enricher(auto choke) for cold starts. check to see if it is getting power to it.
I can't do any of that because I ruined the carb trying to remove the bolts from the bowl. They sealed up the bolt heads preventing removal - I knew I'd probably break it before I got out the drill. Why would they seal the bolt heads and air/fuel ratio adjustment screw head? Seems like more trouble for the mfr and it doesn't do anything to help them? However, the symptoms of my problem is not enough fuel - I think maybe one of the jets got clogged with either the "shipping gel" or some junk from the gas tank (it does have an inline filter though, IDK). My new carb will be here Thursday an hour before dark. Hopefully that's enough time for me to get it installed and adjusted if needed. But I'm still not convinced I have a fuel/carb problem. What are the odds that the CDI and the carb both crap out at the same time? I still think it maybe be electrical, but the only thing electrical left that I can think of is a wire. And I'd rather spend the $30 for a carb on the chance that it fixes the problem than spend the $ on a wiring harness. Replacing a wiring harness is not for the faint of heart LOL


 
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Old 12-27-2016, 11:30 AM   #27
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I swapped everything except the carburetor. My tests indicated that the CDI was bad. Swapping it got it to run but not stay running. I swapped the other electrical components just for "fun", but they didn't make any difference, nor did I expect them to. Those parts test fine. I had to go back to work today so that will prevent me from swapping the carb until the new one comes in on Thursday.
tell the boss to go to hell , that you have to stay home and take care of more important business.
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Old 12-27-2016, 11:32 AM   #28
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What are the odds that the CDI and the carb both crap out at the same time?
For sure it is electrical but It sounds like it could be both since it does start. Check the fuel shut off valve and make sure fuel is flowing through it. I'm right here with you trying to figure it out. little things like this drive me crazy. lol
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Old 12-27-2016, 03:03 PM   #29
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They seal off the carburetors for EPA compliance. Also forces most people to buy a new one when it's worn out and plugged up with dirt and rust.

That means loss of power and performance.... get a mikuni clone


 
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Old 12-27-2016, 03:27 PM   #30
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The crazy part is that it is probably something so simple and you will be Why didn't check that first? lol
Mannnnnn, it better not be! But you're probably right!


 
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