12-13-2011, 10:49 AM | #16 | |
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Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
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This is a quote from your other thread:
Quote:
You're trying to establish a smooth transition from the idle circuit to the main circuit, so each step requires a proper A/F ratio. My guess is also that the slow jet is too big, but I recommend that you make one change at a time.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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12-13-2011, 01:39 PM | #17 |
Join Date: Nov 2011
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yes, i have the clip at the very bottom motch, meaning the needle is in the highest position. I will try raissing the clip up one to bring it down slightly, but you are right, its the transition between the slow and main ciruit.
Can you explain how the air screw works? Ive noticed if the screw is fully closed, the bike begins to stall. ive so far got it about 1/4 turn open, anything more than that doesnt seem to make any difference, and never has done with any of the other sizes i tried. |
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12-13-2011, 03:47 PM | #18 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
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In your application, it's a fuel screw, not an air screw. It provides the transition from idle to main, and it is directly related to the slow jet size. IOW, if your slow jet is too small, you'll need to open the fuel screw (AKA pilot jet) more than two turns. If you hardly need to open the screw at all, the slow jet is on the large side.
Looking forward to hearing what a clip adjustment does.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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12-16-2011, 04:38 PM | #19 |
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 49
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Mate, you've only gone and done it again! I've adjusted the clip this afternoon and my ride into work tonight was silky smooth! There is no hesitation at part throttle, the transition to the main circuit is seemless, even backing off the throttle and reapplying it during higher revs, the engine doesn't jerk about.
Can't thank you enough! With the addition of tightening up the engine mount bolts, and replacing the one that was missing which gave the bike a horrible vibration, the bike feels great and should now be ready for winter, which is just Sewell cos today we've had the first snowfall albeit very light. |
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12-16-2011, 06:28 PM | #20 |
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Location: Southeastern Washington desert
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Weld knows things.
Snow is evil.
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12-16-2011, 07:03 PM | #21 | |
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Location: Idaho
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Quote:
Spud
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Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894 |
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12-16-2011, 11:25 PM | #22 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Glad to hear it, kevshek! In the words of Doc, I'm happy to serve.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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01-24-2012, 03:25 PM | #23 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Hampshire England
Posts: 191
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Hi Kevshek,
did your new carb improve performance at all? Cheers Frog |
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08-21-2012, 02:28 AM | #24 |
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 7
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Idle
Hi everybody!
I'm glad to have found this topic. My carburateur is PZ30. I can't get him to warm up the engine properly because it doesn't react to choke lever. It only stops when choke is 100% closed. Other positions nearly don't affect the engine run. I have to partially open the main throttle in order to keep warming up. By the way when throttle is slightly open this way, there is difference between positions of the choke. Something wrong with idle circuit. Engine doesn't response to pilot screw much - now it turned out on 2.5 turns. It has however good response on idle (horizontal) screw. In other ways it works perfectly, espesially when fully warm. Need some advice with that dead choke how to force it work. |
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08-21-2012, 11:06 AM | #25 |
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Welcome akvilonBrown!
Please feel free to start a new post, so that more people will be able to read it and try to help. My feeling is that the slow jet is either partially clogged, or it's too small. If you remove the pilot jet and tell us what size it is, we can guide you from there.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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08-22-2012, 11:06 AM | #26 | |
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Ukraine
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Maybe to early for separate post, it's just small reconnaissance. Kind a small step cause it's still warm weather and I don't have so much trouble with warming up. But afraid of the fall coming. To be honest I'm complete newbee and require some crash course. Can I remove the pilot jet without dismantling the carb? Is it about unscrewing the pilot screw or it wants dissasembling the carb body? |
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08-22-2012, 11:42 AM | #27 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southeastern Washington desert
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Turn off the fuel. Remove the bowl screws, 3 or 4 I forget on your carb. You may have to remove or loosen the carb body to get to the screws. Carefully slide out the pivot pin for the float and the jets will be visible to unscrew with a good fitting flat blade screwdriver. Do not lose the float needle valve.
I encourage you to look at www.dansmc.com for his on line course for more detail.
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08-22-2012, 06:41 PM | #28 | ||
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Quote:
So how could I measure those jets? I can tell only marks on them. Main jet: 145KB Slow Jet: K40A Does it make sense? Quote:
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08-22-2012, 11:54 PM | #29 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southeastern Washington desert
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Those marks are the sizes I think. Weld will tell you the specifics. Dan has a good site. I've been wrenching for 35 years and I still refer there sometimes.
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08-23-2012, 10:33 AM | #30 |
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I can't tell you the specifics about the Keihin (and clones), but I can guess. The slow jet number is likely to be #40, but I'm not sure how to interpret the main jet. Main jets are usually in the neighbourhood of #100.
The 30mm Mikuni is much easier to work with, because jets are easily found. Depending on the Keihin clone you have, it might be very difficult to source replacements; that's why I switched to Mikuni. With a stock muffler and airbox, I'd likely use a #110 main and a #25 slow jet in a Mikuni.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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