My KDX220 Gets a Kickstand!

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

If you intend to use the bike for quick commutes to the store, etc, it wouldn't hurt to have some sort of disabling device. Generic ignition switches can be had for cheap, but there is another effective method. Study the CDI and choose a power wire that you intend to interrupt, then cut it and connect both ends to a Molex-style female connector. Loop a wire between the two mating terminals of the male connector and plug them together.

As long as the connector is plugged in, the bike will run. If you want to ensure that nobody can kick start it, just unplug the connector and put it in your pocket.

Conversely, you could interrupt the CDI ground kill circuit with the same connector. In that case, the bike won't run if your added Molex connector is plugged in.

In either case, you could use a 12 pin Molex connector and add wires of different colours to the remaining 10 terrminals, and have them routed up under the tank and connected to nothing. The only purpose is to confuse a thief to the point that they move on.

Thanks for the great tip, Weld!

Spud

[SpudRider]

I'm really enjoying my kickstand! Having a bike without a kickstand detracts a great deal from the enjoyment of riding. Taking advantage of the last, few, warm days of fall, I have been riding my KDX220 into the mountains before the snow falls.





Since I modified a KX250 kickstand to fit my KDX220, this Trail Tech kickstand had an extra tab in front.



After today's ride, I removed the kickstand, and used an angle grinder to cut away the extra tab. After the extra metal was removed, I re-installed the kickstand.



The extra metal wasn't causing any problems; I merely removed it for cosmetic reasons.

Spud

[Weldangrind]

How does that upper bolt stay tight, if it needs to be backed off enough to support the spring?

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

How does that upper bolt stay tight, if it needs to be backed off enough to support the spring?

I have tightened the upper bolt against the spring, which serves somewhat the same purpose as a lock washer. After several hundred miles of riding, both bolts were still tight, but I am going to continue to inspect both bolts regularly.

Spud

[Weldangrind]

May I make a recommendation? I would be inclined to allow the spring to move on the mounting surface, and have the mounting bolt fully tightened.

I would accomplish that by choosing a bolt that is threaded all the way to the head, that is also perhaps a bit longer (not sure what bolt length you have). Thread a nut onto the bolt, leaving the desired space between the head and the bolt. Screw the bolt in until the nut makes contact with the kickstand mount, and tighten the nut against the mount while holding the bolt still. A washer between the nut and kickstand mount is also a good idea.

This method would have the existing arrangement stick out more, by the thickness of the nut you choose. That can be minimized by selecting a jam nut, as they're quite thin. The result would be a free surface for the spring to pivot around as the kickstand moves through its arc, and the bolt could be securely tightened.

[FastDoc]

+1 on Weld's idea.

I'd also paint the raw edge where the tab was cut off.

I'm so glad you are enjoying the KLX. I bet starting is even easier with the kickstand!

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

May I make a recommendation? I would be inclined to allow the spring to move on the mountaing surface, and have the mounting bolt fully tightened.

I would accomplish that by choosing a bolt that is threaded all the way to the head, that is also perhaps a bit longer (not sure what bolt length you have). Thread a nut onto the bolt, leaving the desired space between the head and the bolt. Screw the bolt in until the nut makes contact with the kickstand mount, and tighten the nut against the mount while holding the bolt still. A washer between the nut and kickstand mount is also a good idea.

This method would have the existing arrangement stick out more, by the thickness of the nut you choose. That can be minimized by selecting a jam nut, as they're quite thin. The result would be a free surface for the spring to pivot around as the kickstand moves through its arc, and the bolt could be securely tightened.

Thank you for your excellent suggestion, Weld.

Spud

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by FastDoc

+1 on Weld's idea.

I'd also paint the raw edge where the tab was cut off.

I'm so glad you are enjoying the KLX. I bet starting is even easier with the kickstand!

Thank you. I agree; I should paint the raw edge of the kickstand. I don't have any paint which matches the current paint. Perhaps I can find a small bottle of Testor's model paint at a local hobby shop?

Spud

[FastDoc]

I've done that. Apply with a Q-Tip and you're done. :wink:

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Thank you for your excellent suggestion, Weld.

You're welcome.

I'd remove and paint the bracket with liquid Rustoleum in semi-gloss black; it'll match your kickstand. I use a foam brush and get good results with no clean-up. I buy bags of foam brushes at the dollar store for that purpose.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

You're welcome.

I'd remove and paint the bracket with liquid Rustoleum in semi-gloss black; it'll match your kickstand. I use a foam brush and get good results with no clean-up. I buy bags of foam brushes at the dollar store for that purpose.

Once again, thank you for your excellent suggestion, Weld. How long do you think I need to wait for the paint to dry before I can re-install the kickstand?

Also, I am pretty sure I am going to get the frame sandblasted, and repainted this winter. I will start another thread on this subject, but I am considering silver paint, instead of green, for the frame. Given this information, what color do you think I should paint the kickstand?

Spud

[Weldangrind]

I like semi-gloss black Rustoleum (Tremclad in Canada) for most bolt-on stuff, like peg mounts, kicker, kickstand, etc. It usually dries to the touch within a couple of hours, but 24 is better. Flat black dries before your eyes, but it develops a chalky texture, and it easily absorbs fingerprints.

Silver sounds good, although that green looks sharp as well.

[FastDoc]

I think silver paint or powdercoat would be awesome. That's such a nice bike it deserves to be prettied up over the long cold Idaho winter.

[SpudRider]

A few days ago I went shopping for jam nuts, and a longer bolt for my kickstand. Most of the longer bolts I found were not threaded to the end of the bolt, and would not work with a jam nut. :( However, I did find one stainless steel bolt that is probably long enough.

I also could not find any jam nuts at my favorite, local hardware stores. :( However, I remembered to check the Fastenal website, and I found a nice selection of different jam nuts! I'm sure the local Fastenal store will have at least one of these jam nuts in stock.

I continue to enjoy my Trail Tech kickstand! Here are a few more photos I took of the kickstand during Sunday's ride.





I plan to paint the kickstand in a few weeks, when I disassemble the bike for its winter cleaning, lubing, and repainting.

Spud

[Weldangrind]

Notice the area that the paint gets rubbed off by your boots? I recommend plastic frame protectors after your colour change. You'd hate to see the new colour rubbed off after all that work.