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#16 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,554
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It would be highly unusual if it were sent jetted rich. There could be a float bowl/inlet valve issue. You probably got a #40 pilot jet, and #120 main jet. These are probably OK at higher elevations. If you are below 1000 feet, those are on the lean side.
Red hot pipe is more likely to be a sign of lean jetting. Rejetting this carb is covered in the 2022 1/2 Templar X thread in this video and pics section. Opening up the carb is on the post #7, and details are also on post #25. I posted detailed needle shim instruction somewhere here. I need to track it down and add that to the 2022 1/2 thread. Ah, I found it. See the next post... Last edited by Thumper; 11-29-2022 at 08:08 AM. |
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#17 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,554
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Needle shim instructions
The taper on the jet needle determines just how much fuel is allowed up into the venturi area from the float bowl as the slide is lifter (throttle twist). Some needles have a clip and maybe 5 positions to select from. But even if your needle doesn't have this adjustment, you can shim it with washers without changing the position of the clip. That lifts the needle too. I remember learning how to do this on Suzuki CV carbs. The concept is the same, but much easier with just one carb!
It's tight but doable without removing the exhaust on the Templar X. While you are in there, you may also want to bump main jet by one step, and I've also bumped the pilot by one step (still need brief choke to start in cold weather, but not in Summer) Here's how to shim the needle: You can loosen the clamps on both sides of the carb, twist the carb top to the right, unscrew the slide cap, and pull the slide out over the head pipe. Remove the cable from the slide by making slack so the clamped button on the end of the cable can come out via the slot on the side of the slide. You need to compress the large return spring to make slack in the cable. Careful not to lose control of the spring, and keep it clean. Now that you have the slide out and disconnected from the carb, reach in with hemostat or long skinny pliers to pinch and remove the clip down in the bottom of the slide. Push the needle up/out of the slide. Slide a tiny washer (1mm or so) onto the needle and reinstall the needle. You have now shimmed the needle. Reinstall the needle clip to hold the needle in the slide. The needle clip/clamp that holds the needle down won't seem to fit all the way down, but that's OK... It will be held down by the large spring-no problem ![]() Reinstall the cable (don't forget to make sure the large spring is between the slide cap and slide barrel. Now you see the large spring holding down the needle clip at the bottom of the slide, even though the clip didn't seem to fit. It's going nowhere, and the needle will stay planted! Put the slide back into the carb. The slot on the side of the slide must align with the guide post in the inside of slide tower (only one way in!). Screw the cap back on and straighten the carb back in place, tighten the clamps. Done. |
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#18 |
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Morehead, Ky
Posts: 20
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Hap, Thumper, thank you all so much. I will definitely dig into this carb with my more mechanically-inclined buddy, hopefully this weekend when he's off work, and though he and I neither one are very much experienced on carb work, hopefully we can figure this one out with your knowledge and tutorials.
I was afraid where these are still fairly new to the market that there wouldn't be any help on particular things I run across, but glad to see there is a wealth of info here. Thanks again! I'll message back once I've gotten to try this out and see what my results are. As for the washer needed to do the job, is that something I should be able to find at my local hardware store? Not sure what diameter/circumference I need to look for but once we tear into it I'd say it will become a bit more apparent. |
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#19 | |
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Morehead, Ky
Posts: 20
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Quote:
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#20 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,554
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For jets, look at post 18 above
See the reference to posts #7 and #25 there? That's where the jet info is ( where to get them). |
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#21 |
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 90
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getting close to that ideal 14.7:1 stoichiometric air:fuel mixture
After all the talk (e.g. about the 14.7:1 air/fuel stoichiometric relationship), your best source to KNOW (not just guess) what's going on in that combustion chamber is looking at the spark plug center electrode UNDER LOAD.
Pull the spark plug; the center electrode should be a very light tan color. Darker colors, including black, indicate a rich air:fuel ratio; a white center electrode indicates a lean mixture. If the engine is allowed to drop to idle speed, that center electrode can/will change color. To see what going on (i.e. what the air:fuel ratio is) UNDER LOAD, kill the engine at speed withOUT rolling off the throttle (remember: the center electrode color you see will reflect the air:fuel ratio when the ignition was killed; you don't want that to be the air:fuel mixture at idle), de-clutch, stop the bike and pull the plug for a look. Less oxygen at higher altitudes means less fuel is required to obtain that ideal 14.7:1 air:fuel ratio. Enjoy ... jetting carburetors is a fun (and rewarding) undertaking ... made even more fun when accompanied by PATIENCE (and perseverance). ![]() |
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#22 |
Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 2
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Headlight
How Good is the Headlight on this Bike Looks Kinda Small.
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#23 |
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Maben, MS
Posts: 164
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On a scale from 1-10. I would give it a 6. If you can adjust it just right it’s adequate. It’s a led. I’m sure you can get a better bulb.
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#24 |
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Dayton Pa.
Posts: 920
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Wished I would have bought this bike is steed of my TBR7,sounds like alot better bike. Its is my first china bike, didn;t know of this bike when I bought mine. Happy trails.
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#25 |
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Maben, MS
Posts: 164
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Enjoy your TBR7. I wouldn’t be surprised if a 300cc water cooled version isn’t introduced by this summer. Maybe you can sell yours and get one of those then. There’s always going to be something better down the road.
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#26 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,554
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2022 5 speed thread post
I got the red idle adjust knob for my 5 speed, $6.60 delivered
The bike is sitting under a tarp on the back porch under the deck. Same carb so it should fit just as well as the blue one I installed on the Blue 6 speed ![]() I posted this on my 2022 1/2 Temp X thread in video and pics section: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...4&postcount=53 (https://www.chinariders.net/showthre...t=31439&page=4) |
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#27 |
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 605
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I have a red one, different brand?store? in flight along with some front suspension push button air bleeder valves, so I'll hopefully have those sometime in February to join in on the fun. I hadn't adjusted my carburetor much since the freeze but it was 80 today
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2022 1/2 Templar X 250 - 6 gear model - 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets - #42 / #120 Jets - 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed) - Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires - Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes - Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong - https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ |
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#28 |
Join Date: Jan 2023
Posts: 1
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Templar 250x
Does the MCO say motorcycle on the Xpro Templar X250 or does it say atv. In KY it can't be registered if it says atv or anything related to off road as of 2022 and I'm mainly wanting to order for a commuter bike.
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#29 |
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Central VA
Posts: 1,259
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Motorcycle
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2024 Zuma Storm 150 DLX 2019 Beta 430 RRS 2018 VStrom 1000 XT Former China Bikes: Tao DBX1, Brozz 250, CSC RX4, Titan DLX, Templar X |
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#30 |
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Maben, MS
Posts: 164
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And from what I’ve heard from others. It’s no problem registering the Templar in Kentucky.
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22 Templar X 250 Hand Guards Custom Graphics Pro Taper Grips 125 main 45 pilot jets 42 tooth rear sprocket 2010 Yamaha Vstar 1100 Silver Star |
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