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Old 01-18-2010, 10:56 PM   #16
Wild_Alaskan   Wild_Alaskan is offline
 
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try raising the needle a notch or two for the off idle bog, that's usually caused by leaning out when snapping the throttle. (that's why most jap bikes have accelerator circuits)
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Old 01-18-2010, 11:15 PM   #17
recracer   recracer is offline
 
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This past weekend i went out for one tuning ride . 105 main jet ,needle 2nd down from the top . report really strong , i didn't have the gps with me ,but i believe i easily past 70 mph on the flat and fell back to 70 uphills . however plug reading was lean , bone white, lean is mean , but scary on an air cooled engine . moved the needle to the bottom . stuck waiting for a nice day off to test again .


 
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:24 AM   #18
Wild_Alaskan   Wild_Alaskan is offline
 
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you may want to bump up the main jet to a 110
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:04 PM   #19
think   think is offline
 
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Hey everybody. I'm a noob, not only to the site but also to owning a Chinese 200gy as well. I bought a used 2005 dual sport recently and I too had issues with my stock sheng wey PD11 carb. So I bought a 30mm Mikuni carb off of ebay and I don't know much of anything about tuning carbs. My main question is about whether or not the jets need to be purchased separately from the carb. It came with Jetish looking screws in the jet holes, but one is silver in color rather than the brass color I'm used to seeing. Are these indeed jets? and if not what size jets do I need, where's a good place to get them, how do I dial them in corectly, etc.? Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I want to get this bike to start on the first try without using the choke the like OP did. I would just be smitten by that! Thanks
Are there just 2 jets? The (i'm guessing) pilot jet on the bottom and the main jet on the right side? If so I mainly want to have the pilot jet set correctly before I bolt it on because I fear that I'll have to take the entire carb off again to be able to reach it with a screwdriver. Please help me get an idea of how to set this thing up. I can't wait to get out riding!
P.S. I also have a clamp on aftermarket air filter instead of the air box. This was a big inprovement even with the old sheng wey.


 
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:22 PM   #20
katoranger   katoranger is offline
 
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Usually jets are included, but it may be that what is in there won't be the correct size for you application. Depending on the exhaust and elevation you may need a larger/smaller jet.


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Old 01-27-2010, 08:08 PM   #21
think   think is offline
 
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Thanks man. I'm slowly figuring all this out. I do believe that they are jets. Now it's just a matter of dialing them in. Is the air/fuel screw at the bottom (one closest to the intake pipe) of the Mikuni. and if so does "2 and 1/8 turns out" mean that I screw it in all the way and then back it out 2 and 1/8 turns or the other way around? also if it helps I'm about 400 ft above sea level here.


 
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:28 PM   #22
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Hi think, welcome! Please take a moment to post in the Introduce Yourself section.

Yes, you're correct on the air / fuel screw procedure. Please start a new thread on your bike and include photos of the underside of the carb if you can. That'll allow us to see the jet configuration.

Cheers!
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:18 PM   #23
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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Hey think, if that's one of the standard mikuni type carbs then for tuning you will have a pilot jet, main jet, needle jet, jet needle and the slide valve, if you want to get more familiar with what each controls then have a quick read of this page http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm

On the outside of the carb you will be adjusting the air/fuel screw and that silver colored one is probably your idle screw, your pilot and main jet are accesed by removing the fuel bowl off the bottom of the carb.


 
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:48 PM   #24
think   think is offline
 
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Right on! Thanks a bunch Wayne. That link was extremely helpful I was unaware that the two jets were located inside the fuel bowl, but now things are becoming more clear. I took apart my old carb to familiarize myself with everything and I see now why my bike was running so badly at higher speeds. I'm surprised it ran at all! You wouldn't believe the amount of gook and calcium deposits in my old Sheng Wey carb. The holes in the jets were all but completely blocked. I cleaned most of it out already or I would have taken a pic of it to show you guys. It looked like hell. I plan on getting a fuel filter to put on my fuel line before I even test the new carb. I'll work on getting some pics up and starting a new thread. Thanks to all who replied. It is much appreciated.


 
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Old 08-25-2018, 04:53 PM   #25
Kivi   Kivi is offline
 
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Hi, I have Sheng Wey PD1 carb and was wondering about the correct float level. Bike was running OK at first, but now it has some rich condition, high consumption, spark plug is totaly black. Anyone know the correct float level for this PD1 carb?


 
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Old 08-25-2018, 05:51 PM   #26
david3921   david3921 is offline
 
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I've heeded Weldangrind's suggestion on this with success. Turn the carb upside down with the bowl off. Position it so that the bottom (now up) is level. Bend the tab on the float until the seam on the float is parallel with the carb. This only works if there IS a seam on the float. Most are made with plastic floats that have a seam. If no seam, either draw or imagine a line across the center of the float. Then level to the carb bottom.
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Old 08-27-2018, 06:57 AM   #27
Kivi   Kivi is offline
 
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I did it this way, thanks!
EDIT: And that is 14mm.



Last edited by Kivi; 08-27-2018 at 03:04 PM.
 
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